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This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was retired in August 2007. It is being provided by “Sew What’s Up,” which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: jennifer007
Date: 08-30-2003, 09:19 PM (1 of 4)
I need some expert advice here... I made a dress from the sew beautiful magazine. I followed the directions for completing the dress and the last thing to go in was the collar.
Now, this dress is going to be entered in the county fair, for prize money (3.00!!!!!) and a ribbon.
Here is the problem: The collar was to large and meets exactly at the back. The placket for buttons is covered with no overlap. Any suggestions on how to fix this without taking this dress apart and redoing the collar?
I can send a pic of what I am talking about if this does not make any sense.
This was the weirdest instructed pattern I have ever put together and did not see that the collar was too big until it was completed. The only thing I have not done on this is whip stitching the lining down, hem and buttons. I really REALLY don't want to take this apart!
Thanks for any help,
Jennifer:re:
User: jennifer007
Member since: 05-22-2003
Total posts: 29
From: habanerohutch
Date: 08-31-2003, 01:12 PM (2 of 4)
I am looking at a dress I just finished for DGD and I can't quite picture what you are describing. On this dress the collar meets exactly at center back.

Are you saying the collar goes all the way to the edge of the overlap, beyond center back?

If so, I would remove the collar and draft a new one. It's not hard to do. If you don't have enough extra fabric to cut a new collar, just possibly you can re-cut the one you have, just maybe.

Since I have no idea of the style you are making, I may be way out in left field, but here goes.

Place the front and back bodice pattern pieces together at the shoulder seams, seam line, not cutting edge. If you trace the neck edge SEAMLINE from center back to center front, you will have a collar that fits that bodice. You can style the outer edge any way you please. The outer edge is a fashion line, the inner edge is the fitting line. That will give you a perfectly flat collar, with no roll at all. Don't forget to add seam allowance to your drawn collar.

If you want a more attractive collar (in my opinion) with a slight roll, simply overlap the shoulder seam at the armscye point about 1/2" or so, keeping the neck point together, not overlapped. then porceed exactly the same as the previous paragraph.

Just maybe this slightly smaller collar could be re cut from the too large one you have.

Lala
Chile Pepper from Texas
User: habanerohutch
Member since: 07-01-2000
Total posts: 49
From: stitchmd
Date: 08-31-2003, 02:19 PM (3 of 4)
I think I sort of understand what you're describing, though a picture would definitely help. I don't get the part about the placket, though.

You might be able to fix the collar well enough by undoing about an inch of neck/collar seam at each end and taking a bigger seam allowance on the collar at the end to make it shorter in length. If it's a round collar you'd have to redraw the curve, but if it's a straight end you can just sew parallel to the original seam. Then press, trim and baste the neck seam back to see if it worked before stitching it back in place. This would leave a gap in the center back, assuming you have a back closing garment. If it is over the placket try to make the collar edge match the placket seam.

I hope this was at least as clear as your question.
User: stitchmd
Member since: 02-25-2003
Total posts: 226
From: jennifer007
Date: 09-01-2003, 01:57 AM (4 of 4)
Thanks habanerohutch & stitchmd, let me try and explain it a little better. Your answers are on target.
Basically, the collar edge was not supposed to go all the way to the edge, room was supposed to have been allowed for a button placket. After the collar was put in and seams done, there was no allowance at all. It just butted up against the edge. No room for the buttons.
After composing a different message, the answer hit me in the face! I haven't serged the lining yet so I can take a smaller seam allowance on the back edge to make the placket larger instead of taking the collar out! Now that I've stated that and it's clear as mud, I'll work on it in the morning!
At least we know the pros make mistakes on pattern drafting from time to time too!
Thanks for all the help,
Jennifer:nah:
User: jennifer007
Member since: 05-22-2003
Total posts: 29
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