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This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was retired in August 2007. It is being provided by “Sew What’s Up,” which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: dregan
Date: 09-14-2003, 04:35 PM (1 of 7)
I would like to change the back center zipper on pants I am going to make, to the side. I have arthritis and back problems, and don't understand why almost every pattern I want to sew has a back zipper! Anyway, I also like pockets on my pants and wanted to add them, ( that isn't part of the pattern,) but my mind just will not help me understand how to do it! Happens a lot these days. Lol! Help! I'm sure it's simple. I just planned on putting side pockets on the side seam. Help?
Deb:nc:
User: dregan
Member since: 02-28-2003
Total posts: 24
From: habanerohutch
Date: 09-15-2003, 05:15 PM (2 of 7)
I think center back zippers are used because they are the most flattering. Most of us are a bit hollow right at that spot and the extra bulk of a zipper is not a problem. A center front zipper adds bulk to the tummy and a side zipper does the same for the hips.

However I can relate to your problem.. I had a frozen shoulder for a year. I made a skirt with a center back zipper and when I went to put it on, I could see that was going to be impossible. Had to put it on backwards then spin it around. Good thing it wasn't pants.

If you want a side seam ziper, I don't think pockets would interfere with it. If you are meaning in-the -seam pockets where the pocket is sewn to the back pants and the pocket facing is sewn to the front pants, you would just insert the zipper between the back pants and the pocket.

My favorite for pocket and zipper combo is to put the zipper in the pocket itself. I do that before stitching the pocket piece to anything else. Then construct everything as normal except that the waistband closure attaches to the outer pocket layer and only one side of the zipper. The underlap attaches to the other side of the zipper. I use this nearly always for the slant pockets. Have not tried it for in-the-seam pockets.

What part of Iowa are you? I am visiting in eastern Iowa for 2 months.

Lala
Chile Pepper from Texas
User: habanerohutch
Member since: 07-01-2000
Total posts: 49
From: dregan
Date: 09-15-2003, 07:22 PM (3 of 7)
Hi,
Thank you for the info, but I still am having a problem seeing quite how it goes. I could see how it would be for the slant pocket that attaches to the front piece. Maying when I look at the pieces again a bell will go off!
Wow! Visiting for 2 months seems like a long time! We live in a small housing development in the country, called Park View. Our address is Eldridge, Iowa with the Quad-Cities about 15 minutes away. Where are you at?
Better get back at it.
Thanks again.
Deb
User: dregan
Member since: 02-28-2003
Total posts: 24
From: mamagoose
Date: 09-20-2003, 01:56 PM (4 of 7)
Deb,

Maybe I can help.

I make my dress pants with a side zipper and both slanted and seam pockets, with or without a waistband. And, I couldn't find a pattern either, so I had to figure it out.

Look at a pair of side seam pants (or pjs).

I put my zippers in on the left side.

The seam between where your pocket and the back piece join is where the zipper will go.

You are going to want to start the pocket right below the waistband or at the very top in no-waistband pants.

The zipper should start below the top of the pants enough to allow for a hook and eye of some sort. The large skirt/pants type works best.

(Most seam pocket pants I believe would start down a couple of inches from the waist.

My master pants pattern is adjusted to sit just below my belly button, so I'm not sure if starting your pockets way up there would be a problem.)

I start with a 7" zipper and will end up using 6" of it. The rest of the pocket should extend below the zipper a few inches, but I keep the opening to the bottom of the finished zipper.

Basically*:

First, cut out your 2 pocket pieces, attach the front of the pocket to the front pants panel.

Next, sew the back pocket to the front around the curve.

Press under the seam allowances on both the back pants panel and the back pocket piece.

Topstitch the right side of the zipper in place by butting the back pants panel fold up against the the teeth of the zipper. Stitch close to the fold.

Lay the fold of the back pocket piece over the left side of the zipper covering the teeth and topstitch in place about 3/8" to the left of the fold.

For an invisible zipper, insert here too, just eliminate the topstitching.

Finish stitching the rest of that side seam and add your waistband or facing.

*You would want to press, finish seams, do understitching where appropriate, cut off zipper a make a new stop, etc.

A couple of tips:

When cutting out your pocket pieces, cut the front piece a tad smaller, so it doesn't puff out when wearing.

Tack at the bottom of the zipper.

If using a lighter weight pocket fabric, cut yourself a 2" wide facing of pants fabric and add to front and back pockets. I serge the inside edge then sew it right onto the pocket. If you are making slanted pockets, do this to the front of the inside of the pocket too.

Hope this helps! Good Luck!

Anie
User: mamagoose
Member since: 01-26-2002
Total posts: 168
From: dregan
Date: 09-20-2003, 03:02 PM (5 of 7)
Anie,
Are you ever a doll for taking so much of your time to explain the whole procedure so that even I can understand it!! Thank you soooo much. I just had a mental block about the whole thing. I am really happy for your answer. Happy Sewing!
Deb :bluesmile
User: dregan
Member since: 02-28-2003
Total posts: 24
From: habanerohutch
Date: 09-23-2003, 08:20 PM (6 of 7)
Deb, I am in Cedar Rapids, about an hour and a half from you. I am filling up the 2 months with as many sewing events as possible. The final one will be Ron Collins for 2 days in Omaha at end of October.

Anie did a super job of describing the details of the zipper and pocket construction.

Lala
Chile Pepper from Texas
User: habanerohutch
Member since: 07-01-2000
Total posts: 49
From: dregan
Date: 09-24-2003, 02:49 AM (7 of 7)
Hi!
You're right on with the time it takes us to get to C. R. as my kids call Cedar Rapids-I guess a lot of people do. My oldest son graduated from the University of Iowa in 02, my second son attends there now, and so does my daughter. Iowa City is about20 min. from C.R. I think.
Yes, the other woman did give me a well thought out excellent instructions to put the side zipper with pocket in. But I still thank you for taking the time to add info., and they both will help me.
As it's quite late and I'm falling asleep, I better sign off. Good talking with you!
Deb Regan
User: dregan
Member since: 02-28-2003
Total posts: 24
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