Sew What’s Up Presents
The Sew What’s New Archive
This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and
quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was
retired in August 2007. It is being provided by
“Sew What’s Up,”
which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: jr8budwsr
Date: 10-26-2003, 04:38 PM (1 of 11)
|
Does anyone have any tips on how to sew a jersey type knit? I am getting ready to make a dress and I don't want to mess it up. Does the stretchy part go in a certain direction???? Thanks.
Tina
|
User: jr8budwsr
Member since: 10-26-2003 Total posts: 2 |
From: stitchmd
Date: 10-26-2003, 05:57 PM (2 of 11)
|
The stretchy part corresponds to the cross grain in a woven, lay your pattern out along the length or width of the fabric as shown. You must make sure your pattern is intended for knits and specifically for the degree of stretch. There should be a gauge on the envelope showing how to test for stretch. Use a narrow, long zig zag stitch if using a regular machine. If using a serger wait for someone else's advice.  As you're stitching be careful not to pull on the fabric so your seams don't end up wavy. And be sure to prewash and dry. That's all I can think of, knits aren't really tricky despite what some will tell you. |
User: stitchmd
Member since: 02-25-2003 Total posts: 226 |
From: mamahoogie
Date: 10-26-2003, 07:17 PM (3 of 11)
|
This is what I was taught - make sure the stretchiest ( if there is such a word) part of the fabric goes "around" the body part - eg. torso, arms, etc. otherwise it will 'grow' over time. Hope this helps a bit 
I've decided to live forever - so far, so good.
|
User: mamahoogie
Member since: 12-25-2002 Total posts: 461 |
From: plinko
Date: 10-27-2003, 09:02 AM (4 of 11)
|
Use a new needle and change it often. Jersey (sometimes ballpoint) needle for jersey knit (knits that depend on the "knit" in the fabic for the stretch), stretch needle for anything with a lot of lycra, that is, fabric that depends on having woven in lycra for the stretch. Measure the pattern flat and compare it to your measurements. If the waist is 32" and you're 32" without sucking anything in, the ease or comfort in the dress has to come from the fabric. It is okay to cut more ease into knit fabric, not everything has to be form fitting. However some patterns use a lot of negative ease and expect the fabric to expand to fit, not always a flattering look. They don't tell you that on the pattern you have to measure. |
User: plinko
Member since: 08-06-2003 Total posts: 6 |
From: jr8budwsr
Date: 11-01-2003, 09:25 PM (5 of 11)
|
Thank you - I am going to try and sew it tomorrow. Wish me luck.
Tina
|
User: jr8budwsr
Member since: 10-26-2003 Total posts: 2 |
From: Debzy
Date: 11-09-2003, 01:40 PM (6 of 11)
|
stitch type has always interested me when sewing knits. i've always heard that you should use a narrow zig zag or special stretch stitch if your machine has one. however... i've just made a top for my beloved out of jersey, and i used just a normal straight stitch and a ball point needle. it has worked out perfectly. perhaps you only need 'stretchy' stitches if the seam is going to stretch? for the likes of vertical side seams, which don't really stretch, the straight stitch seems fine... just a thought 
|
User: Debzy
Member since: 06-02-2003 Total posts: 71 |
From: lovemyfabric
Date: 11-10-2003, 10:14 AM (7 of 11)
| I just use a normal stitch too and it seems to work out fine. I've tried using a narrow zigzag and it just seems to bunch up the fabric. |
User: lovemyfabric
Member since: 06-06-2003 Total posts: 126 
|
From: sewingastherapy
Date: 11-01-2004, 08:57 PM (8 of 11)
I'm sewing tops for my daughter made of lycra, joy.  So far I've discovered that a stretch needle (plinko I needed your sage advice!!!) a triple stretch stitch for any seam that needs to stretch. And if your making straps DEFINITELY use either a narrow zig zag or a stretch stitch, that snapping sound you hear as you turn the narrow little tube right side out is all your stitches. And I call this therapy. Now here's a dumb question: Vogue Pattern #7877 (http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/voguepatterns/shop.cgi?s.item.V7877=x&TI='877*'&pageNum=1&M=&UK=34747709) there is a casing at the top that you should put elastic in. I don't want a puckered, gathered look at the top. Can I forgo the elastic or should I put it in but make it long enough that the fabric won't look gathered. I have -2" ease (very stretchy lycra) Her bust is 34, finished garment is 32. Are there any factors to changing this that I should look out for. My seam ripper and I don't like lycra. sewing as therapy
|
User: sewingastherapy
Member since: 10-31-2004 Total posts: 5 |
From: Debzy
Date: 11-02-2004, 02:58 PM (9 of 11)
|
wow that's a nice pattern! i know what you mean about not wanting the top to look gathered. however, i made a top once with a similar idea to it - it was actually an assymetrical top with one shoulder. i used wide elastic (about 1") and it didn't give a gathered effect - it just helped the top stay up and sit nicely - kinda like boning i guess! does that make sense? |
User: Debzy
Member since: 06-02-2003 Total posts: 71 |
From: sewingastherapy
Date: 11-06-2004, 05:04 PM (10 of 11)
|
I'll give that a whirl. It is a nice pattern and looks really cute when finished. I've made one puckery one, now I'm on to my second one and would like to fix that aspect of it, everything else worked out after making the above mentioned mistakes. My head is bloody but my daughter is thrilled with the clothes "that no one else has". 
sewing as therapy
|
User: sewingastherapy
Member since: 10-31-2004 Total posts: 5 |
From: grandmasue
Date: 11-06-2004, 05:50 PM (11 of 11)
|
Yes the first thing to always remember is the stretch should go around the body. I do sew all my lycra with a serger and do not use the 4th thread(which is the re-inforcing thread) to allow the greatest amount of stretch which is how most lycra patterns are designed. Without a serger i would recomend using a short narrow zig-zag and I have found it helpful to put the fabrics between layers if tissue paper when stitching to prevent pulling or stretching. When sewing elastic in I find it works well to cut the elastic about an inch shorter (if its going around the whole body) than the actual measure of the garment. Lycra has a habit of stretching just because you are sewing it and this seems to make the smoothest application of elastic that I found. Does this make sense? or have I confused everyone? Grandma Sue
------------ At the end I am not showing up at my grave all pretty and well preserved...I am coming in sliding, yelling "What a ride!" |
User: grandmasue
Member since: 10-26-2004 Total posts: 138 
|
Visit Sew What’s Up for the latest sewing and quilting tips and discussions.
This page was originally located on Sew What’s New (www.sew-whats-new.com) at http://www.sew-whats-new.com/vb/archive/index.php/t-11269.html
Sew What’s Up is hosted by ZenSoft