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From: MaryW
Date: 11-27-2003, 10:32 AM (1 of 15)
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When I first began to sew I could not set in a nice looking sleeve. I had wrinkles and tucks. As time went on, I learned but it was a hard go for a while. Not to mention I was trying to make little cotton shirts for my daughter with little tiny armholes. ARGHGH!! What is your favorite method for setting in a nice looking sleeve. I measure the length from the front notch to the back notch. Then I machine baste a piece of bias that length to the sleeve inside the sleeve allowance. It naturally pulls the sleeve in so that it will ease nicely into the armhole. Then, pull out your basting. 
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
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From: lovemyfabric
Date: 11-27-2003, 11:20 AM (2 of 15)
| My grandmother gave me advice once about setting in sleeves. She just said to baste between the notches and then use LOTS OF PINS so you can ease it all in without puckers. This really works good for me. |
User: lovemyfabric
Member since: 06-06-2003 Total posts: 126 
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From: jcook
Date: 11-27-2003, 12:09 PM (3 of 15)
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I don't know if I can explain this very well but I'll try. I still do the ease stitching when needed. I don't pin an awful lot, just about 10 pins or so. What made the biggest difference for me though was when I realized that the stitching lines match up even though the outer edges don't. I used to worry so much about the puckering on the very edge of the sleeve not fitting into the garment edge well. After I realized that it's the seam that matters, not the edge, it just got easier for me. I have no idea why it worked that way for me but believe me, I'm not arguing! Jill |
User: jcook
Member since: 08-16-2000 Total posts: 50 |
From: jcook
Date: 11-27-2003, 12:12 PM (4 of 15)
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Then again, most of my sewing is done on cottons or blends, knits once in a while. I do very little sewing on difficult, specialty fabrics. That is probably why it's easy for me. Jill |
User: jcook
Member since: 08-16-2000 Total posts: 50 |
From: MaryW
Date: 11-27-2003, 12:34 PM (5 of 15)
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I never use pins when setting in sleeves. Come to think of it, I hardly use pins at all. Sometimes I will press a little crease in the fabric to mark middle or whatever instead of matching up dots.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542
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From: mamahoogie
Date: 11-27-2003, 03:08 PM (6 of 15)
I don't pin much either. Just the matching points, centre and where all seams meet. I sometimes do a loose gathering stitch if the sleeve is very full. The most important thing I learned was to always have the sleeve itself on the bottom. The feed dogs will pull the sleeve up enough it fits just fine.
I've decided to live forever - so far, so good.
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User: mamahoogie
Member since: 12-25-2002 Total posts: 461 |
From: MaryW
Date: 11-28-2003, 03:12 PM (7 of 15)
And I never have the sleeve on the bottom. I want it on the top so I can see and manipulate the fabric. To each her own. 
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542
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From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 11-28-2003, 06:01 PM (8 of 15)
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I still set in sleeves the same way my Home Ec teacher taught us way back in the 8th Grade.. We hated her, because she was so strict, but we learned to sew... I bless her now, she really taught us a lot.. We learned this method.. Hold the bodice (wso) and place pins from notches to notches across the lower part..(just a few will work here) Then when you start on the upper part be sure to tuck the sleeve inside the armhole very carefully using your fingertips cupped close together ( you are shaping the sleeve cap as you go with your fingertips) place the pins close together and this keeps you from having those hated tucks appear when you do your stitching. Start stitching at notch and go past the underarm seam and all the way around the sleeve and end up at the other notch. ( this means you have double stitching in the underarm area) . If you go carefully and remove the pins as you go, of course, you will have a beautiful sleeve insertion with no tucks. when finished , press the gathers in the seam allowance first and then do the regular pressing.. This works as well for me now as it did 5? years ago when I learned it..
Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022 
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From: DorothyL
Date: 11-29-2003, 09:06 AM (9 of 15)
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I'd prefer not to set in sleeves at all but sometimes I have to -- today I will. Depending on the amount of ease in the sleeve I usually ease stitch either on the machine or -- in the case of the slippery rayon I'm working with now -- by hand. I use some pins, not many. I always liked having the sleeve up, like Mary, but that does push the top fabric, which is what needs to be eased in, ahead making the process more difficult. Then I got the Pfaff with the walking foot. That makes it a lot easier (pun??) because I can see what I'm doing without having to work against the machine. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: sewingrandma
Date: 11-29-2003, 10:42 AM (10 of 15)
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I learned this technique on a Sewing With Nancy show and I have used it ever since with out any problems. No tucks or puckers just a nice smooth set in sleeve. Shorten your sewing stitch, on my machine I use a 1.5. Then stitch on the sewing line between the notches. As you sew hold you finger on the fabric behind the presser foot and let the fabric bunch up until you've gone about 4 inches, release and start again. I don't know how it works but the cap gets shapped. I use pins only to match the notches and dots place the sleeve against the machine then sew, removing pins as you go. I have never had a problem since using this method and I've sewn lots of sleeves for me, DH and DGKS. Brockie
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User: sewingrandma
Member since: 03-06-2003 Total posts: 432 |
From: Llantrisant
Date: 11-29-2003, 01:17 PM (11 of 15)
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I use the method Margaret Islander uses,similar described here,using a smaller stitch, for ease stitching around the whole sleeve,pushing the presser foot from behind with your finger,at 1 " intervals let go and repeat again.This method helps the take up of fuller sleeve caps. To set in the sleeve I match the notches front and back,pinning the underam seam first,then pin notches to hold in place.When sewing the garment sleeves, i fold or bend over with my fingers to ease in the sleeve section tops/cap,keep on pinning and its amazing how well the sleeve fits in the armholes.My favorite method that way,never use any other.
If at first you don't suceed, try-try again!
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User: Llantrisant
Member since: 06-02-2002 Total posts: 144
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From: MaryW
Date: 12-04-2003, 10:05 AM (12 of 15)
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Sandra B. uses that technique as well. It's all what works best for you.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542
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From: DorothyL
Date: 12-05-2003, 08:27 AM (13 of 15)
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I'd done that push fabric from behind thing before but never really got in the habit. You all reminded me of it so I tried it on the slinky shirt I'm making now and the sleeves just slid into place. I'll have to remember to do that every time. It's a lot easier than a traditional ease/gather type method. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: MartySews
Date: 12-05-2003, 10:24 AM (14 of 15)
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One of the quick methods that I have tried is to sew the sleeve into the armhole opening before sewing the side seam. Of course this works best on knits. My other method for cottons, linens, etc is to hand baste the joining areas of notches and dots. Gather the excess in the seam allowance and baste into place. Then sew the seam. It takes a bit more time but the results are worth the extra minutes on the front end. I learned this method in a tailoring class at the university. Happy Stitching! Marty 
It takes one moment to change a life.
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User: MartySews
Member since: 02-23-2003 Total posts: 504 
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From: quiltguy154
Date: 01-12-2004, 04:47 PM (15 of 15)
| I use the same method as MartySews. So much better easing in the fullness while the fabric is still flat. Whoever thought this up is a genius. I'm a sleeve-on-the-bottom sewer. Aren't those feeddogs smart to know we need help with the sleeves? I've made a few patterns MANY times. I've learned the more careful you are cutting the armhole and the sleeve cap, the easier they go together. I just finished a flannel nightgown, and the sleeve went in PERFECT, no easing was necessary. I must've made that pattern 10 times, and it's the best it's ever been. In the future I'm definitely keeping a closer eye when cutting those curves. |
User: quiltguy154
Member since: 01-04-2003 Total posts: 14 |
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