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From: Lindyloo
Date: 11-28-2003, 10:06 AM (1 of 5)
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Because I have almost no time to spend sewing, I get excited when I am inspired to make something simple and fast. During an impromptu trip to the fabric store I bought a piece of variegated purple stretch velvet to make a tube skirt for New Year's Eve. After I got over the excitement of my beautiful find, I realized I needed a top--one which would cover the elastic waist and my too-large hips. My thought was to get another piece of the velvet and make a plain tunic, but I was worried about the bulk. When I returned to the fabric store I noticed a bolt of silk shantung which, miraculously, had the same colors as the velvet. I couldn't resist it! So much for quick and easy. I've never sewed silk before, so I did some research and found that the "slubs" need to face the bottom of the garment. Good thing I checked--I would have placed the lines vertically in an effort to make a slimmer look! Then I purchased a simple tunic pattern (Butterick 6831) with a variety of necklines: round, deeper round, or slit. The long sleeves can be narrow or bell and there are side slits by the hips. The pattern calls for fusible interfacing for the neckline. I think I'll do the slit neckline and narrow sleeves. What I need to know is: 1. Should I use the shantung to make the neck facing? Or would it be better to use some other fabric? If I use the shantung, I'm guessing that shouldn't use fusibile interfacing. Since this fabric is somewhat crisp, do I even need an interfacing? 2. The side slits are folded twice into a narrow hem. Will that work with this fabric? 3. Are there any danger zones that I need to know about? I don't want this outfit to look cheap and "homemade." I want it to be elegant and "handmade." Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. |
User: Lindyloo
Member since: 03-05-2001 Total posts: 3 |
From: MaryW
Date: 11-28-2003, 01:35 PM (2 of 5)
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Lindyloo, your outfit sounds great. I would use the shantung for the facing and use an interfacing as well. Probably a lighter weight nonwoven sew in. The fusibles are heavier after they are fused and the dots might show thru to the right side. Wouldn't that make you crazy!!! That folded twice method is fine for everyday wear, but your silk top should be considered "special". I would think the hem should be as deep as the slits and interfaced as well. This will ensure no stretching out of shape or distortion. I would be very careful when pressing. Take some time with a scrap and test, test, test. Sometimes the heat can turn the fabric darker. Also, I think shantung is notorious for shrinkage. I'll have to check on that one. Hope this helps.  By the way ladies, feel free to give your opinions here as well. Do you have any precautions or suggestions for Lindyloo. MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
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From: plrlegal
Date: 11-28-2003, 10:37 PM (3 of 5)
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I would definitely use a light weight sew in interfacing as well as a pressing cloth when pressing; here's a little tip for pressing side seams so you don't get that show through of the seam lines on each side of the -- If you don'thave a seam stick, roll a towel up as tight as you can and pin it so something to keep it tightly rolled and lay your seams in the middle of the roll, cover with pressing cloth and lightly press. If you use steam, be very, very careful that you don't get any actual water on the shantung. To the best of my recolletion, it water spots somethng fierce. Patsy Patsy
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User: plrlegal
Member since: 05-19-2001 Total posts: 318 |
From: Lindyloo
Date: 11-30-2003, 10:29 PM (4 of 5)
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Thank you for your responses, Mary and Patsy. Before I sent my first message, I checked Sandra Betzina's "Fabric Savy." She says to PRESHRINK by holding the steam iron 1/2 inch above the fabric--but she warns that when PRESSING this fabric you should use a dry iron set for silk. She says that ironing with steam will cause waterspots. So your warnings to use a presscloth and to test on scraps will be heeded! The towel trick is also one that I will use, Patsy. Would it be safer to send the fabric to the drycleaner rather than to try to preshrink it myself? It seems that it will be worth my while to serge all the raw edges of my fabric before I begin to stitch the seams because this fabric is very ravelly. I will be sure to use a lightweight sew-in interfacing in both the neck and the hem. I would be horrified if I used a fusible interfacing and those glue dots showed through! Mary, I'm not sure what you mean when you say that the hem should be as deep as the slits. Are you saying that if the slits in a garment are 5 inches long, then the hem should be 5 inches deep?  I've decided that I should simplify this project as much as possible (to avoid potential disaster), so I'm hoping to eliminate the side slits (a decision I can make when I'm stitching) and definitely do the plain round neck. After the machine sewing is finished I can always embellish the neckline by hand with crystal beads to give it more interest. By the way, I misspoke in my first message regarding the need to cut the shantung with the lines running horizontally (along the selvage grain). When I re-read Sandra Betzina's directions I found that you should use the crossgrain layout whenever you want the fabric to drape. Even though I don't need it to drape, I think that I'd be much happier with those lines running vertically. |
User: Lindyloo
Member since: 03-05-2001 Total posts: 3 |
From: MaryW
Date: 12-02-2003, 07:01 PM (5 of 5)
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No, I was taking it for granted they were only a couple of inches deep. The hems should be 1 1/2" - 2" .
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542
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