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From: AnnH
Date: 02-14-2004, 05:31 PM (1 of 6)
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I am working on a Jacket pattern with a one piece set in sleeve. I am trying to adjust the (muslin)pattern(jacket) at the shoulder. The seam hung over the shoulder and so I cut it back 1 1/2 inches on the pattern and tapered it down front and back to the side seam. If that the correct course of action then now what adjustment do I need to do to the set in sleeve? Do I add the 1 1/2 inches to the top? or do I make a side to side cut on the pattern near the top and add my inch and a half there? Right now I have not done any adjusting to the sleeve pattern and just cut out the muslin piece and set it in and it hangs with a deep fold that wraps around to the inside of the sleeve when my arm is hanging straight down. The sleeve otherwise fits nicely I am just trying to get rid of that sort of twisted fold??? Or have I done this all wrong? |
User: AnnH
Member since: 03-07-2002 Total posts: 7 |
From: stitchmd
Date: 02-14-2004, 05:58 PM (2 of 6)
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Do you mean you cut off along the seam where the front and/or back get attached to the sleeve? This throws off the size of the arm opening and affects the fit, in addition to throwing off how it matches the sleeve cap. The better way to do it is to take a vertical tuck midway between the sleeve and neck, to reduce the shoulder length. As long as you do this to front and back equally and taper it to where the body measurement is OK it is a fairly easy adjustment which won't affect anything else. It is usually easier to use a pattern where the shoulder fits and adjust other areas using pivoting and sliding adjustments. Unless you have a very large bust or hip measurement and have chosen the size to match those I suspect the whole pattern may be too large for you. Have you measured it and compared to your own measurements? Measurements listed on pattern envelopes are notorious for being all wrong. |
User: stitchmd
Member since: 02-25-2003 Total posts: 226 |
From: AnnH
Date: 02-14-2004, 07:50 PM (3 of 6)
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Oh...hummm yes I was thinking that would be a better way. I am working with sizes 18 to 24...adjusting where I needed to but I have never put long sleeves on anything so after reading my books over and over I still was not sure how I created that deep fold and none of my books address that particular problem. Athough in general the books say if the fold is going up and down(vertical) is the result of too big but in this case I think I just went about it all wrong. Thank you for your advise. I have been sewing for 30 years and had no problems when I was a normal size everything fit fine but now my adventure into the 50's+ menopause nightmare...my body has exploded into some big ole distorted shape that is requiring me to figure out a new way of dealing with patterns. Actually the better thing for me to do is find something that fits and take it apart and make a pattern but I don't have this particular type of suit jacket type to take apart so thought I would try a pattern. So here I am. |
User: AnnH
Member since: 03-07-2002 Total posts: 7 |
From: stitchmd
Date: 02-15-2004, 10:48 AM (4 of 6)
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I feel your pain. I always had some fitting problems, but middle age has made them way worse. I am short, plus sized, pear shaped, you name it. While I'm having some trouble with the mechanics of using my patternmaking softwear, the adjustments it makes are so much faster and accurate than anything you can do by hand it is amazing. It's a big up-front expense, but worth it because it can create unlimited numbers of patterns and allows you to customize styles and details far more than any paper pattern. |
User: stitchmd
Member since: 02-25-2003 Total posts: 226 |
From: MaryW
Date: 02-16-2004, 09:05 AM (5 of 6)
AnnH, there are a lot of us in the same situation. 
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
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From: MartySews
Date: 02-21-2004, 07:05 PM (6 of 6)
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Instead of cutting off your shoulder on the pattern piece, measure to a smaller size that fits your shoulder. It's easier to add to the bottom of the jacket. I use a size 16 in the shoulders and need a size 24 in the waist. I use size 16 top patterns and add in the difference below the armhole. That way there is no distortion. Always cut right of the grainline. You may want to shorten your sleeve cap to avoid wrinkles, puckers, etc and lengthen your side seams. This works for my pear shaped figure. Every pattern I try has to have some adjustments but then I'm a unique shape ... yeah ... I keep telling myself that over and over and over ... ad nauseum ... LOL!!! Happy Stitching! Marty in TN 
It takes one moment to change a life.
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User: MartySews
Member since: 02-23-2003 Total posts: 504 
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