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This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was retired in August 2007. It is being provided by “Sew What’s Up,” which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: wushucyn
Date: 03-08-2004, 10:43 PM (1 of 7)
Hi... I could really use some advice... I have never done much sewing with special, sheer fabrics and today I bought some embroidered organza and silk to "line" it -- the pattern I have (jacket with mandarin collar) does not call for lining. I've been sitting here all night pondering just how best to go about this: 1) sew each fabric separately, then join at collar, up the front, and hems meaning I wouldn't need facings?? Wouldn't that mean that the seams of the lining silk would be facing out and show under the sheer organza? Or should I 2) just sew both separately but join them together so the lining's right side is facing out and just have the wrong side inside? Or... 3) is there a way I could just sew with both fabrics together at the same time, just using both as one??? Or 4) Should I forget that pattern and use one that calls for a sheer top with a separate camisole underneath???
Any help would be very appreciated!
User: wushucyn
Member since: 03-08-2004
Total posts: 5
From: MaryW
Date: 03-09-2004, 07:14 AM (2 of 7)
Hi wushucyn, welcome to Sew Whats New. :bluesmile

I would go for #2. But, I have to ask. Why would you want to go to the work of lining if the jacket doesn't need any?
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005
Total posts: 2542
From: sewserious
Date: 03-09-2004, 07:16 AM (3 of 7)
You may need to rethink the pattern you are using for the first time using sheer fabric. However, should you decide to proceed, underline with the silk. This is the "using them as one" thing you mentioned.

Do you have a good sewing reference book? It should explain this method if you do. If you do not, may I suggest that you get one. It will be invaluable to you in learning new techniques. Some things are just to complicated to type out on the 'net and pictures usually help with learning also.

I would recommend the Reader's Digest Complete Guide To Sewing, either a new edition or an older one.
User: sewserious
Member since: 08-24-2003
Total posts: 112
From: MaryW
Date: 03-09-2004, 07:16 AM (4 of 7)
Sorry, I just re-read your post. I was wrong. If you have sheer embroidered fabric, your best not to line. Your inner construction will show thru and ruin the effect of the embroidery. I would sew with french seams and let the fabric be the focus.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005
Total posts: 2542
From: DorothyL
Date: 03-09-2004, 07:46 AM (5 of 7)
I'd say anything but #4 would work. With #1 leave off the facing. Make sure the wrong sides are together when you are finished and you might want to finish your seams on both fabrics.
If you do #3 (that's called underlining) finish with french or flat fell seams. I think that is what I would do because you won't have to worry about seams showing through.
Don't just forget it. That's doable and will look good when you are finished.
Oh yeah -- you might consider a cheaper or slippery fabric in the sleaves.
Dorothy
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002
Total posts: 3883
From: MaryW
Date: 03-09-2004, 08:22 AM (6 of 7)
Well, there ya go. A whole lotta choices.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005
Total posts: 2542
From: wushucyn
Date: 03-09-2004, 09:32 AM (7 of 7)
Thank you very much to everyone for your help and expertise! I woke up this morning with the underlining version(#3) in my head and when I read the posts I decided that that was how I would proceed. I had envisioned using some kind of binding to enclose the seams since there will be 2 fabrics together, maybe I could use the silk underlining to cut bias strips...

Thank you Mary, thank you "Sew Serious" for your excellent advice regarding the reference book, and thank you Dorothy L for your great advice & moral support!

(It's a long story, but I went to NYC fabric district to find fabric that more or less expressed the idea of a beautiful flowered jacket in the last Vogue [J. Mendel - $3,600.!] -- The organza came closest, but necessitated the charmeuse underlining.)

Thanks again to all - I'm excited about this forum!
User: wushucyn
Member since: 03-08-2004
Total posts: 5
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