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From: Selene
Date: 03-13-2004, 05:25 PM (1 of 16)
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Hi! I've been practicing quite a bit with my sewing machine, different stitches on different fabrics, and I really seem to be getting the hang of this! It's great! I have one question: when sewing stretch (spandex I think you call it) velvet, what stitches do you use for the seam and overcasting? I suppose this will be the same for any stretchy fabric, is this so? Also another thing: for my first project I'm thinking of doing a cape. I saw a pattern at Burda here in Spain which is labelled easy/very easy, and I think it's a good idea to do this as a first project. What do you think? Selene Selene
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User: Selene
Member since: 03-03-2004 Total posts: 71 
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From: stitchmd
Date: 03-13-2004, 06:20 PM (2 of 16)
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Most knit sewing advice is to use either a straight stitch or a narrow zigzag, so narrow it won't leave a bumpy seam when you turn it right sides out. Some machines have a designated stretch stitch, so read your manual. As for overcasting, if you mean as a seam finish, it shouldn't be necessary as knits don't fray and ravel as wovens do. Your cut edges might curl, so stitching can help stabilize them some. I'm sticking with my usual advice to say try out a few stitches and edge finishes on scraps to see which look best on the specific fabric you are using. There isn't a definitive answer for every fabric in a category, only guidelines. |
User: stitchmd
Member since: 02-25-2003 Total posts: 226 |
From: MartySews
Date: 03-13-2004, 07:22 PM (3 of 16)
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When sewing with stretch velvet, use a lightweight stabilizer in the seam allowance to help keep the fabric from shifting when you sew. Many machines have an overlock or a feather stitch for sewing stretch fabrics. If your machine doesn't have these stitches built-in, then try a zigzag stitch. Happy Stitching! Marty It takes one moment to change a life.
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User: MartySews
Member since: 02-23-2003 Total posts: 504 
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From: Selene
Date: 03-14-2004, 09:36 AM (4 of 16)
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OK, in my sewing machine instructions it says I have a selection of stretch stitch patterns, basically if I set the stitch length dial to "SS" I have all the normal stitch patterns (straight, zig zag etc..) in stretch stitch version. I'm not really sure how this works yet, what they're all supposed to do. I mean, for example if I use the straight stitch for doing seams on normal non stretch fabrics, would I use the same, only setting the dial to "SS" for stretch fabrics? Then I also have a tricot stitch which is basically like the zigzag stitch, only it is wider and appears to have various little stitches on each straight line of the zig zag. In the instructions it says: " you can use this stitch for overcasting and for elastic applications" Does this mean for overcasting any fabric, regardless of whether it's stretch or not, or just for overcasting stretch fabrics? And also, wouldn't this stitch be basically my usual zig zag stitch with the stitch length dial switched to "SS"? What is the difference? I then have another stitch, "overedge stitch" and they say it is recommended for sewing fabrics such as swimwear and stretch velour as it provides the greates amount of elasticity and strength. Would this be for sewing the seams, overcasting, or does this stitch do the work of both? I'm sorry to be asking so many things, but it is just quite confusing for me to see that there are so many different stitches for sewing stretch fabrics and to decide which one's best, and what each one is really for!! Also a question about needles: somewhere I read that for stretch fabrics, as in knits, one should use ball-point needles so as not to get ladders in the fabric....but somewhere else I read that for stretch velvet one should not use these type of needles, rather sharp needles (sharp violet-band needles?? what are these?) Which is best?? Thankyou so much for putting up with me!! Selene Selene
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User: Selene
Member since: 03-03-2004 Total posts: 71
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From: Selene
Date: 03-14-2004, 09:40 AM (5 of 16)
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Marty by the way, what is a light weight stabilizer?
Selene
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User: Selene
Member since: 03-03-2004 Total posts: 71
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From: MartySews
Date: 03-14-2004, 01:51 PM (6 of 16)
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Selene, Stabilizer is a product designed to provide stability to fabric. It is often used in machine embroidery and as an interfacing. It is most helpful in preventing seams from stretching out of shape which would ruin the garment. There are different types of stretch stitches that you can use. The overlocking stitch is good for fabrics that can stretch out of shape. I use it on knits, fleece and velours when I dont want to use my serger. The wider stretch stitch you described is good for when you are making elastic waist garments. It holds the elastic in place and has a certain amount of "give" when the elastic is stretched. Do you have a sewing manual for your machine? It can give you some good recommendations as to which stitch should be used for fabric. Another great book that I like is Nancy Zieman's Essential Guide to Sewing. It can be found at most Hancock and JoAnn Fabric stores or you can order online from Nancysnotions.com. It is around $20. In the back of the book is a wonderful glossary that explains sewing terminology, tools, notions, fabrics, needles and which ones to use. It also has basic instructions for sewing and is well worth the expense especially for those learning to sew. When I taught classes, I recommended it to all of my students because of the information provided (including photos). Hope this helps. Happy Stitching! Marty It takes one moment to change a life.
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User: MartySews
Member since: 02-23-2003 Total posts: 504
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From: Aimee S
Date: 03-14-2004, 02:05 PM (7 of 16)
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I sew with stretch velvet alot toooo much some times I use a stretch needle size 11 with poly thread and wooly nylon in the boobbin that has been hand wound or wound on the machine with out going through the tensioners on the machine. I like a 2.5 to 3.0 stitch length and I use a straight stitch. I pin the fabric and the registration marks and I sew. It doen need to have the edges finished it will frey over time. I use a serger or the overcast function on my sewing machine. The more you disaprove, the more fun I am having!
http://photos.yahoo.com/aimeehs29 |
User: Aimee S
Member since: 02-23-2003 Total posts: 488 
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From: Selene
Date: 03-22-2004, 02:21 PM (8 of 16)
HELP!!!  I'm trying out stitching on scraps of the stretch velvet and I can't keep the fabric from shifting around in the machine; Marty, I think now this is what you were speaking about!!! I haven't worked out yet what stabilizer can be in spanish, but perhaps the best thing would be for me to go to my local fabric store and ask them how best to stitch this fabric!Desperate Selene! 
Selene
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User: Selene
Member since: 03-03-2004 Total posts: 71
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From: MaryW
Date: 03-22-2004, 02:30 PM (9 of 16)
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Maybe basting your velvet pieces would be a good idea.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
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From: Selene
Date: 03-22-2004, 03:22 PM (10 of 16)
Yes I am basting everything together, but the fabric bunches up whilst I'm stitching in the machine and the edges curl up 
Selene
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User: Selene
Member since: 03-03-2004 Total posts: 71
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From: paroper
Date: 03-22-2004, 03:22 PM (11 of 16)
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Most velvets will "crawl" on you because of the pile. When I am sewing a non-stretchy velvet, I usually lightly finger press the pile together from the wrong side, it seems to hold itself in place better, but with stretchy velvet I'm not sure that will work. You may need to loosen the top tension on your machine to keep from having a lot of top fabric left over...there are several special feet: walking feet, teflon feet, etc that are made to keep your machine from stretching the top fabric. Also, be careful about pressing your velvet with an iron when you have finished...you may need to steam press it to keep from pressing down the pile. I'm glad that you are getting the hang of sewing! Congratulations!
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: MartySews
Date: 03-22-2004, 03:57 PM (12 of 16)
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Selene, This sounds like velveteen instead of true velvet. Claire Schaeffer recommends in her book "Fabric Sewing Guide", page 265 to use the following: Sewing Machine Needles - Universal H or Red Band Needles size 70/10 - 90/14 depending on the fabric weight. Machine Setting - Stitch length 2 -2.5mm (10-12 stitches per inch); tension and pressure variable. Thread - Long staple polyester, cotton wrapped polyester, topstitching thread. Hand Sewing Needles - sizes 7 to 9. Sewing Machine Equipment - Roller or even-feed foot, zipper foot or shim. Layout - Nap. Light and medium weight - double lay, wrong sides together; heavyweight - single lay, wrong side up; patterns to be matched - single lay, right side up. Marking Technique - Chalk, soap sliver, clips, disappearing marking pens, pins, tailor tacks, thread tracing. Seams - plain, welt, topstitched, lapped, piped, tissue stitched. Hems - plain, blindstitch, blind catchstitch, topstitched, double stitched, interfaced or faced. Seam and Hem Finishes - unfinished, pinked, pinked and stitched, multistitch zigzag, serged, tricot bound, bound, HongKong. Facings - self fabric facings, smooth fabric facings, bands, ribbings, bindings. Interfacing - usually sew-in; depends on the fabric and garment design. Linings - optional Underlinings - rarely Closures - all types Pockets - all types. On page 266, under stitching tips, she recommends to always test on 2 10" scraps of fabric. Set the stitch length for 2mm (12 stitches per inch) for lightweight velveteens and 2.5mm (10 stitches per inch) for heavier fabrics. Loosen the tension slightly and lighten the pressure as needed. Hold the fabric taunt and stitch with the nap. The test seam should be smooth without puckers and even at the end. If the underlayer creeps, use a roller or even feed foot. Examine the fabric carefully. If there are feed dog tracks, tissue stitch the seams. This book in an invaluable resource for anyone who sews. It is $32.95 + tax (USA) and $41.50 (Canada). Sounds as if you need to use some tissue paper to keep your fabric from creeping all over the place. Hope this helps with the problem, Selene. Happy Stitching! Marty 
It takes one moment to change a life.
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User: MartySews
Member since: 02-23-2003 Total posts: 504
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From: Selene
Date: 03-22-2004, 05:26 PM (13 of 16)
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Thankyou very much for all your help! I'm so happy to have joined you all here, you're very helpful! Now I'm off to sleep, but tomorrow I will carry on trying things out following your advice! Selene Selene
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User: Selene
Member since: 03-03-2004 Total posts: 71
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From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 03-22-2004, 06:49 PM (14 of 16)
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Selene, Do you have access to waxed paper where you are? I suggest you cut some strips of waxed paper and put under your seam lines and do your stitching.. And always use a stretch stitch with a stretch fabric or the thread will break when you put stress on the seam..The waxed paper will control some of the slippery antics of your fabric.. Its too late now, but that is a bad fabric to learn on.. Stretch velvet, satins, chiffons, organzas, are all problem fabrics.. Requires more time and careful treatment to turn out great is what I mean..When you have time, get some plain old cotton or poly cotton blend and practice to learn more about machine and the stitches and what they look like.. I made a sampler of flag blue cotton cloth with white thread when I bought my machine, and I keep it in a folder by the machine.. I like it much better than the little diagrams on my machine.. I made each one 5 or 6 inches long..
Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022 
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From: Selene
Date: 03-23-2004, 03:05 AM (15 of 16)
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LeapFrog Libby, thankyou! I did that the first week of trying things out, I've done a sample of each of the stitches my machine does on cotton with contrasting thread to check out what each looks like and have kept it al in a file. I managed the satin part ok, didn't findI faced too many problems with that. But the velveteen (yes, now I remember that's what it's called) is keeping me back. Is waxed paper the kind you use in the oven or am I mistaken? Selene (looking forward to work it out!!) Selene
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User: Selene
Member since: 03-03-2004 Total posts: 71
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From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 03-26-2004, 06:04 PM (16 of 16)
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Waxed paper is an old old product. Before the days of plastic.. It was used to wrap food in the olden days. (when I was young).. Freezer wrap will work just as well if you cannot find waxed paper.. Marcal is the manufacturers name here in the US, but I know nothing about the products you have there.. Sorry.. 
Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022
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