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This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was retired in August 2007. It is being provided by “Sew What’s Up,” which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: caroled
Date: 03-18-2004, 11:06 PM (1 of 5)
I am trying to make a skating dress with a silk chiffon skirt. I am trying to do a three-thread overlock seam to join front and back halves and a serged rolled hem (as I have seen on other dresses).

Nothing is working! The seams fray and the thread just sews over itself! Any ideas?

I am using a Janone Compulock (love it--usually!), Mettler thread (also have Woolly nylon for the rolled hem), and size 11 needles (as recommended by Janome).
User: caroled
Member since: 03-18-2004
Total posts: 2
From: paroper
Date: 03-19-2004, 07:21 PM (2 of 5)
I won't even try to give you advice on the hem...I hate chiffon! However, you might try a French seam on the dress portion. They are frequently used on finer clothing. In this application, the raw edges are enclosed. If you choose to do this, you initially sew a shallow seam on the OUTSIDE of your fabric (wrong sides together)...usually 1/4 inch. You then turn the garment wrong side out and fold at the seam. You then stitch 3/8 inches from the edge of the garment enclosing the first seam. This makes a really smooth finish on the inside of the garment and reinforces your seam lines so that it should not ravel with wear. The seams are pretty inside the garment which is nice because they show through.
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: MartySews
Date: 03-19-2004, 07:27 PM (3 of 5)
If using the serger, try using size 9 needles for the thinner fabric.
If the fabric has that "chewed" edge, then you need a new knife blade. Hope this helps. Happy Stitching! Marty
It takes one moment to change a life.
User: MartySews
Member since: 02-23-2003
Total posts: 504
From: dmoses
Date: 03-19-2004, 07:38 PM (4 of 5)
Someone suggested that I use spray starch when doing a rolled hem on sheer fabric. I haven't tried it yet, but you may want to test it.
Take care,
Donna
User: dmoses
Member since: 02-22-2002
Total posts: 964
From: caroled
Date: 03-22-2004, 12:41 AM (5 of 5)
Thanks, all! I actually had already sewn a french seam for the side seams, and it is a nice finish. I had good luck by laying tissue paper underneath the chiffon, recessed about 1/2 inch. I pinned the chiffon to this stabilizer and the rolled hem came out beautiful! I'm going to be sure to write these notes in my book!

Also did use a size nine needle--works fine with this fabric. So much for the rule of using only 11 and 14 needles in a serger.
User: caroled
Member since: 03-18-2004
Total posts: 2
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