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From: wifetod
Date: 03-24-2004, 06:11 PM (1 of 21)
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I am starting a project with a slippery polyester and crepe. I am wondering if a walking foot helps with these and also it has been suggested to use a product like Sulky or Solvy or Starch. I don't know how to use these products for sewing. Can you tell me what I am going to have to do? Thanks, Jolene Jolene
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User: wifetod
Member since: 01-19-2004 Total posts: 149 
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From: wifetod
Date: 03-24-2004, 09:45 PM (2 of 21)
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Right now I am just getting started. Just doing the stay stitiching. I do have a couple of questions. I got some Sulky, the tear away stuff. Does the rest of that wash out if I don't get it all torn out or do I have to get it all torn out? Do I use that under all my seams? Also this materail is fraying bad on the ends. In one of my post someone mentioned french seams. I am practicing and think I have it. It looks like a regular seam on the right side and a narrow encased seam on the back. Is this type of seam going to lay OK on this fabric, it doesn't press with my finger tips real well at all? And if I use this seam finish, would I use it throughout the whole project? Not doing much more tonight, will start in on it tomorrow. Thanks everyone! Jolene Jolene
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User: wifetod
Member since: 01-19-2004 Total posts: 149
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From: DorothyL
Date: 03-25-2004, 08:09 AM (3 of 21)
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A walking foot is a big help with a slippery fabric and your French seams sound right. The real question is how does it look from the outside? If it looks the way you want it to then you're doing it right. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: paroper
Date: 03-25-2004, 08:34 AM (4 of 21)
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Your French seams should look good no matter where they are used and I generally use them on any seam except ones where there are gathers or extra fullness, (gathered waists, sleeve caps, etc). It is true that if the seams look good from the outside, the inside is secondary. The French seams really help where the seams ravel badly and they reinforce delicate edges.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: wifetod
Date: 03-25-2004, 09:52 AM (5 of 21)
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It should look like a regular seam, right? The ones I made look like a regular seam on the right side and the wrong side is where I see the encased seam. Is that the way it should look? It is not like the flat felled seam where there is 2 rows of stitching on the outside?
Jolene
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User: wifetod
Member since: 01-19-2004 Total posts: 149
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From: paroper
Date: 03-25-2004, 10:05 AM (6 of 21)
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Right. From the outside it is a smooth seam, from the inside (ideally) it is a smooth enclased seam...very pretty. If your fabric unravels as you say, you may want to use a bias tape around areas where you cannot use the French seam well. Just open the bias tape so that there is a raw edge against your raw edge (inside) and sew in the fold; then wrap it over and sew it down on the oposite side of your seam (on the top) so that it wraps the raw edge of your seam allowance...this should prevent ravel and give strength to the areas where a French seam doesn't work well; like arms and gathered waist. (It also gives a nice finished seam). You will need to experiment: If the fabric is not so unstable that you cannot control the ravel, I would trim the seam then apply the bias tape. Before the days of hem tapes, we used bias tape to finish hems...and you can do that too if you would like, do the same basic thing except you don't wrap the hem, you sew to the edge of the turned hem, then turn the bias tape up and do a slip stitch hem (by hand). This gives a nice finished edge on the inside and allows some "shift" so that there is not as much stress on the hemline when sitting.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: wifetod
Date: 03-25-2004, 11:13 AM (7 of 21)
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On another board where I post questions a gal suggested to use Solvy under the fabric, do I use that with French Seams also and how do I use this stuff in the 2 steps I will have to do these french seams in? I don't have a serger.
Jolene
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User: wifetod
Member since: 01-19-2004 Total posts: 149
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From: paroper
Date: 03-25-2004, 11:36 AM (8 of 21)
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I don't know, I don't use Solvy. I would think that it just applies to the seamline. I always worry about what would be seen on the fabric if a product is applied. If you think you might use it I would suggest that you put it on a scrap and let it dry first. I would also press it with an iron to make sure that it doesn't mark the fabic. If it is supposed to wash out, I would wash my scrap too. (I'll never forget spending several days scallopping and trimming and embroidering the edge of layers of ruffles, edges, sleeves, etc on a child's dress and then applying a fray product to stablize the edges and it turning the edges yellow. I was destroyed.) I think Solvy though is just a water soluble stiffner. If it is, anything like that should help you in your project as long as it doesn't leave a mark. Although there are a lot of fine products on the market to help you in your sewing, not all products are always needed. I still do a lot of sewing "the old fashioned way". Most of what I need can be accomplished with needle sizes, different feet, tension and stitch adjustments. I do use a serger, but usually use the serger only to finish fabric or seams, depending on my fabric, or reinforce stress areas like the seat of pants. When I was learning to sew, the difference between fine garments and the cheaper garments was the depth of the seamline or in the seam itself (French seams for instance). I still like to see that deeper seam line in a garment. One of the reasons that was used was to allow for a smoother, straighter seam...the other was to allow space for alterations. I like that look.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: wifetod
Date: 03-25-2004, 12:04 PM (9 of 21)
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PARoper, Can you please look at the picture to my dress pattern, it is Simplicity 5637? I am getting ready to put the first seam in and am wondering if French is ok where the side front sews onto the front because of the little curve in it or if I need to do another seam finish where it is curving there? Thank- you Jolene BTW- if I finish this dress, I may not ever make this pattern again!!! Jolene
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User: wifetod
Member since: 01-19-2004 Total posts: 149
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From: paroper
Date: 03-25-2004, 12:39 PM (10 of 21)
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You could probably do a French seam, however, the problem is getting the bust fullness to match the other side properly and sewing on the edge doesn't do that very well nor does it give you much play to adjust the seam line in the final seam. If you do not have a lot of material to work in, the French seam would probably do great. That is probably dependant on how severe the curve is in the bust line and how fitted the dress is. If you have a dramatic curve, I don't think that I would try it. As an alternative, I hate to see you put more material into an area that will show bulk...so...why not do your seam at 5/8 inch on the inside. Then, again I don't know exactly how thick your fabric is or how badly it ravels (so consider this carfully before you begin). You really need to clip the curves of a princess line to make the bust lay flat. What would happen if you clipped the curves of the center section, trimed the edges of the arm section to 3/8 and then rolled the center section's seam over the arm section's and sew the seam allowances together to stabilize the material and press toward the arm? Would this be too much fabric in your bust area and would the seam show through the dress?
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: paroper
Date: 03-25-2004, 12:40 PM (11 of 21)
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By the way, princess dresses are fun to make and they are very flattering! Don't even consider giving up on this dress until you try it again in an easier fabric! It may become your favorite pattern of all time!!!
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: wifetod
Date: 03-25-2004, 05:01 PM (12 of 21)
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Another question. I did go ahead and do the french seams on the front and side front. I am working on the second side now. It is telling me I need to clip curves and I can see the need to do that with the princess cut. Can I use something like fray check on the edges of the french seam I am going to have to clip? I haven't touched those seams yet and will wait and see the answer. BTW- I tried a test piece using the Solvy, it puckered terrible. So if I just sew slow without it I am fine. Jolene Jolene
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User: wifetod
Member since: 01-19-2004 Total posts: 149
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From: paroper
Date: 03-25-2004, 11:23 PM (13 of 21)
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I don't think that would hurt anything...unless it makes the curves scratchy and uncomfortable. I haven't tried Fray Check for a few years..haven't been doing that type of sewing so I don't know how much control you have in the application. You might try it on a scrap of your fabric and see if it absorbs into the fabric so that it covers a larger area than you apply...if it does, I just wouldn't apply so much that it goes into the seams. (At least I think that I would prefer not to have it go into the seamline where it might show.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: sewingrandma
Date: 03-26-2004, 06:19 AM (14 of 21)
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Last time I used Fray Check it dried hard and scratchy. I would use a product called Seams Great to enclose the seam rather than using Fray Check. It is easy to use and doesn't ravel.
Brockie
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User: sewingrandma
Member since: 03-06-2003 Total posts: 432 |
From: paroper
Date: 03-26-2004, 08:07 AM (15 of 21)
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Thank you soooo much, Sewingrandma! I figured that there were probably newer products out there that would serve better for this project...just haven't shopped for fray products in a while.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: wifetod
Date: 03-26-2004, 08:53 AM (16 of 21)
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Well, I didn't need to use any product, it pressed out just fine. The toughest part so far, and I am not to the zipper yet, has been laying out for all the different seams with the princess cut. They line up a little different and then when I am doing the french seams, first time for that too, I am having to lay them on the floor right sides together and then turning them wrong sides together for that first seam. I won't get as much time today to work on it. I am starting on the back and back sides now. I am wondering when I stitch the center back seam up to where the zipper will be would I be using a french seam there also or will that mess up the seam allowance for the zipper above it? I think this looks good so far, time will tell! Jolene Jolene
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User: wifetod
Member since: 01-19-2004 Total posts: 149
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From: paroper
Date: 03-26-2004, 09:13 AM (17 of 21)
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The actual seam allowance won't be affected. What will be affected will be the direction the fabric wants to roll. The middle of the seam will want to turn in. It shouldn't effect an invisible zipper because it only uses the center of the seam....you may need to just clip the center portion of your seam, to make it lay flat and then position your french seam and press so that it lays more or less in the center of the seam just under the zipper. This would probably be a great place for a single drop of fray check. On the other hand, depending on the type of insertion, you make, you may not need to do anything to the allowance below the zipper. Believe me when I tell you that not all princess dresses are this difficult to make...it is your fabric. Once I made 17 in five days from cut to hem (for a choir) out of black tafeta with 45 inch wide gold lame sleeves but my fabric cooperated. You are learning a lot about dress making with this project and you are learning a lot about fabrics and this is probably a great pattern to use to learn. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: MaryW
Date: 03-26-2004, 10:26 AM (18 of 21)
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Pam, do you own all those machines you list in your signature?
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
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From: paroper
Date: 03-26-2004, 02:00 PM (19 of 21)
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Yeah, and a 335 Bernina Serger that I used when I was in business too...but I only needed it when I was doing two tone outfits...I really like my serger thread to match my dresses, so I don't list it because if someone were to ask about the machine, I'd not be able to tell them much except that it is five thread and it chains and serges too.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: wifetod
Date: 03-27-2004, 08:54 PM (20 of 21)
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Well I made it through the zipper, looks good so far, basting to remove yet. I tried it on and am wondering if I may have to have narrower seams on the final side seams. If I do I may have to bind them in bias or overcast them. I may have used more than I should have doing the other french seams having never done them before. Also my fabric frays away just from handleing. I do like the dress alot and I know the fabric is my biggest problem. Can't wait to start the crepe jacket to match and then just think only 4 1/2 yards of the polyester left!!! Jolene Jolene
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User: wifetod
Member since: 01-19-2004 Total posts: 149
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From: paroper
Date: 03-28-2004, 01:25 AM (21 of 21)
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It sounds like you are doing great! I hope that you'll post a picture when you are finished!
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
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