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This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was retired in August 2007. It is being provided by “Sew What’s Up,” which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: MaryW
Date: 03-31-2004, 08:08 PM (1 of 4)
Please respond if you can help, thanks.

I am using a folder foot on my industrial single needle to roll a 1/8in hem on a chiffon sleeve. I cannot seem to keep the fabric straight and taught for the roller to continue sewing a perfect hem all the way down. It wants to take it and bunch it, or the fabric is so slippery that it doesn't fold over correctly. Now the sleeve is so frayed and I have to keep cutting away the fray parts, that the sleeve is getting smaller and smaller. I have been working on this for 2 days. Do you have and expertise suggestions? I have tried to iron it first, but still having no luck. HELP!!! Thank you.
Jodi
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005
Total posts: 2542
From: MartySews
Date: 03-31-2004, 08:19 PM (2 of 4)
Add a bit of tear-away stabilizer behind it or tissue paper. It takes a lot of practice to master the narrow hem foot (am still trying to master mine). Hope this helps. Happy Stitching!
Marty
It takes one moment to change a life.
User: MartySews
Member since: 02-23-2003
Total posts: 504
From: paroper
Date: 03-31-2004, 09:05 PM (3 of 4)
After you get the material in the hemmer, back it up slightly to make sure that you have it straight. Then, guide gently with the left hand and roll lightly with your right, holding it several inches from the foot. Don't push or pull the fabric, but keep it steady . The fabric bunches when it swings too far from the left under the foot. It does that when the fabric left of the foot doesn't feed through at the same rate. (If you think about it, it is like pulling fabric from the center through an opening, it tends to "bunch up" from both sides.) It doesn't slip out as easily if you keep a slight roll in the fabric as it goes under the foot. Someone had suggested using some sort of stiffner on the edge of the fabric. I've never tried it, but you might experiment on a scrap with a no fray type product on the very edge and see if that helps. (If it does, let us all know.)
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: mommydionne
Date: 04-26-2004, 05:55 PM (4 of 4)
Claire Schaeffer describes a chiffon hem in her "High Fashion Sewing Secrets " book

first staystitch along hem line(2mm stitch), clip and tun hem under and press just to the outside of staystitch line,

then sew on the staystitch line with the right side UP. trim edge of fabric as close as possible to stitching

then turn under to wrong side so both lines of stitching can only be seen on the wrong side and stitch again on top the edge stitching line this time and you should be done.

this takes a while but is a good technique for chiffon, I also often stitch over tissue (pattern leftovers) for stability with my feed dogs.

Claire Shaeffer also recommends moving your needle all the way to the left for stability.

lingerie thread helps too. hard to find where I am so I sometimes sub my rayon embroidery thread instead, it's ok on nonstress seams and looks pretty on hems b/c of the sheen.

I like my narrow hem foot but not for chiffon, not enough body
happy sewing!
Jeanette
User: mommydionne
Member since: 01-08-2004
Total posts: 838
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