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The Sew What’s New Archive

This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was retired in August 2007. It is being provided by “Sew What’s Up,” which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: sewnew2
Date: 04-13-2004, 10:21 AM (1 of 14)
Hi,

I am a beginner, and am sewing a pull up skirt with an elastic waistband, with a fold over casing. I have a question on how to construct this.

The pattern instructions say to put the elastic under the casing first and then sew the foldover casing down.

However, the instructions in the lessons on this site, and in a book I have read, says to sew the casing shut first without the elastic, leaving an opening to insert the elastic after.

Which is easier or better?
Heather
User: sewnew2
Member since: 03-31-2004
Total posts: 70
From: pucktricks
Date: 04-13-2004, 10:41 AM (2 of 14)
I've usually followed the instructions on the site because that was how I was taught in junior high, and in my opinion it is a fairly easy way. I haven't done the other.
I don't know if they recommended this on the site, but put a safety pin through the elastic that you are feeding through and it will be much easier to feed through.

Ticia
User: pucktricks
Member since: 03-31-2004
Total posts: 570
From: paroper
Date: 04-13-2004, 10:46 AM (3 of 14)
I think that is personal preference. I usually sew my casing first and then add the elastic. The reason I do that is that it can be replaced or taken up at any point in the future. (I also just find it easier.) Commercially it is usually sewn in place. If you sew the casing first some people also stitch in the ditch (in the space between the seams) at the side seams once the elastic has been inserted and adjusted to stitch the elastic in place and keep it from rolling (at the waist line). I usually purchase non-roll elastic. I think the reason it is sewn in place commercially is that it is faster to apply.
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: blackie
Date: 04-13-2004, 11:13 AM (4 of 14)
It seems it would be way easier to sew the casing first. And I can't think of an advantage to sewing with the elastic inside. I would recommend you buy a high-quality no-roll elastic.
see the mundane life of a housewife.
User: blackie
Member since: 03-31-2004
Total posts: 594
From: sewnew2
Date: 04-13-2004, 11:15 AM (5 of 14)
Thank you; since the elastic is smaller than the waistband and I am new to sewing I will sew the casing down first, then add the elastic.

I am still concentrating on sewing in straight lines, and would rather not deal with trying to keep the elastic straight and the cloth not bunching all at the same time!:re:
Heather
User: sewnew2
Member since: 03-31-2004
Total posts: 70
From: pucktricks
Date: 04-13-2004, 11:19 AM (6 of 14)
I just realized that I implied that I would sew the elastic first. Sorry, I meant to sew the casing first, and then add the elastic.

Ticia
User: pucktricks
Member since: 03-31-2004
Total posts: 570
From: sewnew2
Date: 04-13-2004, 11:25 AM (7 of 14)
Originally posted by pucktricks
... I meant to sew the casing first, and then add the elastic.



I actually understood you, as you mentioned the site as did I, and on this site they say sew the casing first add elastic later. :cool:
Heather
User: sewnew2
Member since: 03-31-2004
Total posts: 70
From: MartySews
Date: 04-14-2004, 01:36 AM (8 of 14)
I cut my elastic about 4 inches smaller than my waist and sew it together on the ends. Then I pin it at the 4 corners and sew the casing down over the elastic being careful not to catch the elastic in the stitching. It saves stretching your fabric or elastic out of shape by pulling and allows for replacement at a later time. This is just one of the different methods for sewing elastic. I get a good snug fit around the waist and the fabric has not been distorted by pulling the elastic thru. Happy Stitching! Marty :cool:
It takes one moment to change a life.
User: MartySews
Member since: 02-23-2003
Total posts: 504
From: sewnew2
Date: 04-14-2004, 07:16 AM (9 of 14)
Originally posted by MartySews
Then I pin it at the 4 corners and sew the casing down over the elastic being careful not to catch the elastic in the stitching.

Hi Marty,

This brings up another (beginner) question. The pattern calls for overcasting the end edge of the waist, folding it down over the elastic to make the casing, then for sewing it down.

Do you fold the edge under again, say 1/4 inch to create a tiny hem before sewing it down? Or does the overcast edge count as a hem, and I think the pattern as far as I can tell does not call for an additional fold where I sew down the casing.

Tonight the skirt should be finished, :bg: and then it is on to the sleeveless shell to go with it!
Heather
User: sewnew2
Member since: 03-31-2004
Total posts: 70
From: MartySews
Date: 04-14-2004, 04:44 PM (10 of 14)
Heather,
Using the overcast stitch finishes the edge of the fabric. Some people prefer to zigzag the edge or sew a small hem. I find that using my serger works great. If you don't have a serger, the overlock stitch was created for this purpose. Happy Stitching!
Marty :cool:
It takes one moment to change a life.
User: MartySews
Member since: 02-23-2003
Total posts: 504
From: sewnew2
Date: 04-15-2004, 10:32 PM (11 of 14)
Thank you all for your help! I solved my tension problems and finished the skirt tonight. Here are links to photos if you are interested:

http://www.fearn.ws/skirt/theskirt.jpg
http://www.fearn.ws/skirt/waistbandoutside.jpg
http://www.fearn.ws/skirt/waistbandinside.jpg
http://www.fearn.ws/skirt/seamzigzags.jpg
http://www.fearn.ws/skirt/hem.jpg

I am short in stature, and this is the first skirt I have made. I dutifully shortened the paper pattern before cutting, but forgot that the knee slit in the side was sized for regular height sized people! I now have a thigh high slit! :shock: When I am feeling less tired I might fix it.

I am not sure I did the zigzag of the seam allowances correctly, next time I will try to zigzag closer to the edge. I suppose I could trim them now.

Thank you all for your help! The matching shirt I have yet to start, that has bias facings, oh boy you can bet I'll be back with lots of beginner questions! :bg:
Heather
User: sewnew2
Member since: 03-31-2004
Total posts: 70
From: MartySews
Date: 04-16-2004, 12:21 AM (12 of 14)
Heather what a beautiful skirt you made. I loved the decorative stitching on the hemline. Congratulations!!! A job well done.
Happy Stitching!
Marty
It takes one moment to change a life.
User: MartySews
Member since: 02-23-2003
Total posts: 504
From: sewnew2
Date: 04-16-2004, 07:24 AM (13 of 14)
Thanks Marty,

That decorative stitching on the inside (wrong side) of the hem is actually my sewing machine's overcast stitch (I don't have a serger) coupled with the machine hem's straight stitch.

I hope that is what the overcast stitch is supposed to look like! :bg: And I hope it holds up to wear.
Heather
User: sewnew2
Member since: 03-31-2004
Total posts: 70
From: paroper
Date: 04-16-2004, 09:05 AM (14 of 14)
It looks very nice and very well pressed! Good job! My high school home ec. teacher used to say that pressing is one of the most important parts of sewing. I think you'll be proud to wear it!
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
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