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This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was retired in August 2007. It is being provided by “Sew What’s Up,” which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: K8_Dog
Date: 05-05-2004, 01:20 AM (1 of 5)
Hi I'm new to the forum, and a dangerously self-taught seamstress. What is the difference between a lining and an underlining? And why would a pattern specify "sewn-in interfacing"? Will I die a horrible death if I use fusible interfacing? I know the fabric will tolerate fusibile interfacing. Thanks.
User: K8_Dog
Member since: 05-05-2004
Total posts: 26
From: paroper
Date: 05-05-2004, 06:47 AM (2 of 5)
Lining is exposed, interlining goes between fabrics..could be the lining, could even be between two pieces of the actual fabric ...often used in eveningwear, could be used in suits. It adds extra stability to the garment and usually makes the garment feel more expensive. Sometimes there is an interlining when there is boning. Depending on the garment, it may even just be an "extra" piece of lining material used as interlining.

As for interfacing, I rather prefer the sewn in interfacing. There are some types of interfacing that are available only as sewn in. Sometimes you can tell where the iron on interfacing is in the garment. The sewn in cannot be detected and because it is not attached, it adds body to the stresslines but does not hamper the fabric's natural movement. With the quality of the new iron on interfacings, I don't really know why the pattern would specify sewn in..you might look at the directions to see if there is some specific application where the iron on wouldn't work. I really like the knitted iron on interfacings when I use iron on; it is a little more expensive but is generally wider but because it is knit, it moves better with the fabric (more like the sewn in interfacing).
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: DorothyL
Date: 05-05-2004, 07:57 AM (3 of 5)
The difference between lining and underlining has a lot to do with the drape of a garment. Lining is constructed separately then put inside the garment. Underlining is cut out then sewn to the fashion fabric pieces. Then treat it as one when you construct the garment. It helps keep wrinkles down and is really good when the style of a garment doesn't lend itself easily to regular lining.
Interlining, as paroper says, is between fabric and lining -- or I suppose underlining -- to give it more body or, in some cases, warmth.
The drape of a garment is affected by your choice of lining, interlining or underlining.
I think the difference between sew in and iron in interfacing would have to do with drape too. Some fabrics don't like iron in because of the heat. Sometimes you don't want to actually stiffen the fabric the way iron in does, especially with knits, I think.
Dorothy
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002
Total posts: 3883
From: MaryW
Date: 05-05-2004, 09:00 AM (4 of 5)
Hi K8 Dog, welcome to Sew Whats New.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005
Total posts: 2542
From: K8_Dog
Date: 05-06-2004, 10:52 AM (5 of 5)
Thank you very much, ladies. You've cleared that up for me.
User: K8_Dog
Member since: 05-05-2004
Total posts: 26
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