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From: K8_Dog
Date: 05-09-2004, 12:35 PM (1 of 5)
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I am making a dress (vogue 2429) and I made an alteration that didn't work. Fortunately, this was a trial run after a several year break from sewing, so I'm not too let down. After constructing the bodice (which turned out surprisingly well) and attaching it to the skirt, I decided that the skirt had too much fullness at the bottom. It was too flared, and I wanted a neater, trimmer look. The skirt had no darts, it flared straight from the waist. So, I just took out the side seams of the skirt, and sewed a new side seam that was steeper and reduced the width at the bottom. This didn't work. Now the skirt is all bunchy on the side seams at the hips because the side seam isn't a straight line. I didn't consider that the side seam had to be straight. Oops. I think that this 'solution' would never work. Am I right? I think if I want a straighter skirt, i should make a new pattern with darts at the top or gathers. I'd appreciate any words of wisdom. |
User: K8_Dog
Member since: 05-05-2004 Total posts: 26 |
From: paroper
Date: 05-09-2004, 02:49 PM (2 of 5)
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That is a very cute pattern! You don't say which view you used but I am thinking that it is the one without the pleats. Without actually seeing the pattern pieces, my guess is that it would be hard to alter this pattern to make a straighter skirt. Although it is possible to remove the side darts from a fitted pattern, the grainline issue in this pattern add some real design challenges. You also have the problem that part of the fullness comes from the front, not just the side. I don't exactly know how to explain this to you, but if you laid out two chop sticks and crossed them at the top, that would be like the side and front of your dress..the dress is narrow at the top and wide at the bottom. if you laid them 2 inches apart at the top and bottom, that would be like a straight dress and you would have to add darts to make the dress fit your waist...what I am trying to say is that as the dress gets narrower at the bottom, it gets fuller at the top...and in a circular or near circular dress, the wider it is at the bottom, the narrower it is at the top. That is not an ateration you make after you have cut your skirt, that is a design problem. In the past when these styles were in, and the patterns hit the market, they often had a skirt like the one you are looking at and a fitted skirt on the same pattern. If it is possible to save this dress, you would need to take it apart and lay it down so that the grainline (I think this one is running through the center) were straight. If you have enough fabric, you might be able to cut a straight skirt out of what is left of the fabric, carefully laying it out so the gainline matched. You would have a center seam, front and back. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: MartySews
Date: 05-10-2004, 11:28 AM (3 of 5)
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Since this pattern has a gore skirt and flared at the bottom, the only way to create a straight skirt is to re-draft the pattern. I would take the skirt apart and lay a straight skirt pattern over the cut pieces keeping the grainlines straight. You may have to remake the skirt all over again. That's one of the great things about sewing is that we can change a garment to suit our tastes and personal style. Good luck. Happy Stitching! Marty 
It takes one moment to change a life.
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User: MartySews
Member since: 02-23-2003 Total posts: 504 
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From: K8_Dog
Date: 05-11-2004, 11:27 AM (4 of 5)
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I understand the problems. My plan now is to take the skirt off and make a new one based on a skirt pattern I like. The trick will be for me to match up the seams and darts. Thanks again for your help. You guys are great! I hope someday I'll be able to send a helpful message to someone on the forum, but for now, I'm grateful for all your advice. Kate |
User: K8_Dog
Member since: 05-05-2004 Total posts: 26 |
From: paroper
Date: 05-11-2004, 11:38 AM (5 of 5)
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Matching those darts may be easier than you think. I usually make very tiny clips in the material to mark it. After you cut your new skirt, place it against your bodice and make a tiny cut for to mark where the BEGINNING of your dart would be if it matched your skirt. Then, mark your dart on your material using your pattern. I believe that this dress has two front darts, if so, mark it once from the center front, once from the side for placement and then spit your dart's width in half. Usually the shallower the dart, the shorter it is, you'll just have to experiment to get the length right.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
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