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From: natural blue
Date: 05-16-2004, 09:01 PM (1 of 11)
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I am fairly new to sewing and am having one heck of a time doing a full bust adjustment. I just found Silhouette patterns with differing cup sizes included, and know that Sandra B's patterns offer this as well. Are there any other pattern companies that make this same allowance? I need at least one stylish, well fitting, top to give me the strength to go on! |
User: natural blue
Member since: 05-14-2004 Total posts: 10 |
From: paroper
Date: 05-17-2004, 09:18 AM (2 of 11)
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I don't know of any but that is a really big need!
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: plrlegal
Date: 05-17-2004, 01:57 PM (3 of 11)
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Natural blue. Welcome to sew-whats-new. I have the same problem of having to adjust allof my patterns for a really full bust. I purchased a book by Patti Palmer and Marta Alto - "Fit for Real People" and it is invaluable to me. They show pattern adjustments for every shape and size of body with diagrams. See ifyou can find this book and practice some of their techniiques and you'll be surprised at the difference in your pattern fitting abilities. Patsy Patsy
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User: plrlegal
Member since: 05-19-2001 Total posts: 318 |
From: neefer
Date: 05-17-2004, 03:03 PM (4 of 11)
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I recommend FFRP, too. The full bust alteration takes practice, but after you do it a few times, you'll be able to do it in your sleep. It's not just a matter of the right size dart; spacing, height, additional fabric all come into play. I know it sounds terribly complicated, but it isn't. There can be a lot of steps, but tedious is a better word to describe the FBA. That being said, European patterns are drafted for a C cup: Burda, Neue Mode, and New Look. The young collection/junior patterns for each of those manufacturers is for a B cup, so stick to the general collection. Today's Fit by Sandra Betzina, part of Vogue collection, is drafted for larger cup sizes in the larger sizes. I think that GHIJ sizes are D cup, but you'd have to check to be sure. That being said, even tho the pattern drafts for a larger cup size, it's drafted for a perky breast that hasn't felt the tug of gravity for decades. So you might find that you need a very structurally sound bra or to do an alteration. Jennifer in Livermore
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User: neefer
Member since: 03-29-2004 Total posts: 29 |
From: natural blue
Date: 05-17-2004, 05:12 PM (5 of 11)
Thank You all for the replies.  I posted this on another site and got the same reply... Burda. I have FFRP and Fast fit, I use Fast fit for problem identification and lay-mens(?) terms, and FFRP to clarify instructions. I think both are invaluable.Neefer, "Tedious" is the word I used to describe this as well. I just can't seem to get the right amount to do away with drag lines without swimming in my adjustment. I think I will try Burda and start working on a fitting shell. Maybe what I am lacking is a clear understanding of the cause/ effect of the changes I'm making. Thanks again for the help
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User: natural blue
Member since: 05-14-2004 Total posts: 10 |
From: MaryW
Date: 05-17-2004, 06:41 PM (6 of 11)
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Just a suggestion. Try www.petitepluspatterns.com MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
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From: neefer
Date: 05-18-2004, 01:14 PM (7 of 11)
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Originally posted by natural blue Neefer, "Tedious" is the word I used to describe this as well. I just can't seem to get the right amount to do away with drag lines without swimming in my adjustment. Maybe you could describe what you are doing. We are both following the directions, but I'm not swimming in my tops. Moi, in an altered top. The dart is a bit high in this one. I lowered it for subsequent tops. http://www.friendsofpr.com/Jen/ks2565.jpg Jennifer in Livermore
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User: neefer
Member since: 03-29-2004 Total posts: 29 |
From: natural blue
Date: 05-18-2004, 07:03 PM (8 of 11)
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Neefer, I like the top, the fabric is beautiful. I am using the slash and spread method, found in FFRP and Fast Fit. Although I have been told it does not add extra fabric to other areas, for me it seems to. I have considered that I am not using the correct size pattern, but the 16 seems offer the best upper body fit. My muslins are floppy above and below the bustline. I've been told that the fba done correctly doesn't do this, so I am assuming I am doing it incorrectly, despite the good reference books. There are numerous other alterations that I need so I guess one of them is causing the problem. I am giving up, momentarily, on the fba. At this point I just want to get a top to fit at the chest, then I can measure and use those numbers to start over. I am ordering a fitting shell and a few patterns ( neue mode and burda) . I will re-measure when they get here and just start over. Thanks for the help.
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User: natural blue
Member since: 05-14-2004 Total posts: 10 |
From: paroper
Date: 05-18-2004, 08:59 PM (9 of 11)
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Did you measure your own bustline? When you measure yourself, your bustline changes which will change the fit/position/size of your bustline. Put on a good bra and a light weight slip and have someone else measure it with your arms and body relaxed. If I were doing it on someone else, I would make the pattern up in a gingham check, then slash open the bustline and pin in patches of gingham check fabric to get just the right fit (the check makes it easy to measure the amount added to the bustline). It is a little hard to do on yourself. If I am looking at this right, I think that you have just slightly too much spread in the bustline because it looks like the sides might be slightly higher than the center front. To check to see if that is the case, take a piece of cording, twill tape or something similar and tie it over the garment letting it find the smallest part of your body (your NATURAL waistline, again best done by someone else)...this is one of the techniques we used in flat pattern/design to help find the straight of grain of our sloper. If your pattern is too wide at the bust, this will tell you how much too wide it is. Keep in mind though that because this is the top to a garment, you should have 5/8 inch left over for the seam allowance.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: natural blue
Date: 05-18-2004, 09:43 PM (10 of 11)
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paroper, I think you are refering to neefer's picture. I haven't posted one Thank you for the tips though. I have been measuring myself. When I get the fitting shell I'll try the gingham with a friend to help. Thanks to all for the links and advice. I'm anxious to get the new patterns. |
User: natural blue
Member since: 05-14-2004 Total posts: 10 |
From: neefer
Date: 05-19-2004, 01:15 PM (11 of 11)
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I never take a full bust measurement. Well, that's not true, but I don't use that measurement to determine the FBA. I find my size based on a high bust measurement. I use FFRP. I trace the pattern pieces and pin fit. I measure the distance from the centerline of the pattern piece to my centerline, and that's how I get my fba. In knit t-shirts, I don't allow for any ease in the pattern pieces. Since knits stretch, I get some ease. I don't want much ease over my bust; it's big enough already. I usually forget to add ease in wovens, so the first try doesn't fit ... well, it fits a lot better than an unaltered pattern or rtw. It takes me a couple of iterations to get any pattern perfect; usually the item is wearable the first time. I think using gingham or muslin or anything that I wouldn't wear to make a fitting shell is a tedious waste of my time. I'm glad this method works for people, but I'd much rather make something wearable. The biggest problem that I have with the fitting shell is that it's only accurate for that fabric. Different weight, different hand, add a little lycra, use a knit, and you are back at the starting point. As for the picture of me in the burnout stretch panne t-shirt, the darts are too high and too long. That shirt was my fitting toile for that pattern. The sleeves are too small too, and that may be affecting fit as well. However, it is a much better fitting t-shirt than anything I could buy, even with all those problems. And the 3rd iteration of that pattern came out very, very well. My biggest problem fitting right now is that my breast size varies duing the day depending on how long ago I nursed a baby. Jennifer in Livermore
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User: neefer
Member since: 03-29-2004 Total posts: 29 |
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