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From: sewnew2
Date: 06-08-2004, 01:50 PM (1 of 9)
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Hi All, I have just finished a short sleeve shirt with a roll collar to find out that the shoulders are too wide, the should seam falls about an inch down my arm from the top of my shoulder! I have put in the sleeves via the flat construction method with a serger. Is it possible for me to just resew a new shoulder line in the round by turning the shirt inside out right sides together with the sleeve / shoulder seam exposed to be resewn? (Boy is it fun to be inbetween sizes, and a C cup instead of the usual B cup besides!) I am learning very quickly what I need to modify! Heather
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User: sewnew2
Member since: 03-31-2004 Total posts: 70 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 06-08-2004, 04:43 PM (2 of 9)
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I can't answer your question but it brings up one of mine. I have a shirt I made using the flat method although the pattern called for set in sleeves and they fit a little off at the front. So is it just not a good idea to put the sleeves in flat if the pattern directions say set them in? I can still wear the shirt but they aren't right -- I can feel it not see it. But it also could be I didn't cut the darn thing right too. It was way back when I was using the kitchen table and scissors. Now I use a large, high cutting table and rotary cutter and find it works much better. Meanwhile. If I was you, sewnew2, I'd make the effort to take out the sleeves and put them in again. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: mamahoogie
Date: 06-08-2004, 07:38 PM (3 of 9)
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I can't help you either but do check the pattern to make sure the pattern doesn't call for a drop shoulder! It may be the design of the shirt and not a misfit. Violet I've decided to live forever - so far, so good.
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User: mamahoogie
Member since: 12-25-2002 Total posts: 461 |
From: MartySews
Date: 06-08-2004, 07:43 PM (4 of 9)
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Was the pattern a drop shoulder one? If so, then the sleeves are in correctly. To shorten the shoulder, one can redraft the bodice front and take a tuck in the shoulder line or add a dart. Pintucks are very popular now and may solve your problem. Another method is to redraft the armscythe. My shoulders are very small (4 inches) so I have to use a smaller pattern and increase in other areas. Every pattern piece almost has to be redrafted for a good fit. It's worth it to have great looking clothes. Happy Stitching! Marty It takes one moment to change a life.
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User: MartySews
Member since: 02-23-2003 Total posts: 504 
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From: sewnew2
Date: 06-09-2004, 09:57 AM (5 of 9)
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Originally posted by MartySews To shorten the shoulder, one can redraft the bodice front and take a tuck in the shoulder line or add a dart. Pintucks are very popular now and may solve your problem. Marty Hi all; Thank you for your suggestions. I am loathe to take apart this garment, it is perfect except for the shoulder seams. It was not meant to be a drop shoulder pattern. I wonder if I could add a shoulder dart, on the front and the back, without it looking too weird, that would only mean ripping out part of the shoulder seam, and sounds like the least amount of trouble. I will have to look into pintucks, I am not sure of what they are. I like the shirt overall, and when I make it again I will try redrafting the arm and shoulder entirely. Heather
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User: sewnew2
Member since: 03-31-2004 Total posts: 70 |
From: paroper
Date: 06-10-2004, 10:35 AM (6 of 9)
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Shoulder darts or even darts at the neck used to be common in fitted patterns. You don't see them much now. Any alteration that you make to the garment at this stage will either change the angle of the shoulder or the size of the sleeve opening (that's a real pain). Would a stiff shoulder pad help?
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: sewnew2
Date: 06-10-2004, 10:41 AM (7 of 9)
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Originally posted by paroper Any alteration that you make to the garment at this stage will either change the angle of the shoulder or the size of the sleeve opening (that's a real pain). Would a stiff shoulder pad help? Hi, thank you for this information, I think I will try shrinking it with hot water and hope the bust doesn't get too small! A shoulder pad would make me look like a goon,  as I am very short. I remove all shoulder pads, they just don't work for me at all.
Heather
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User: sewnew2
Member since: 03-31-2004 Total posts: 70 |
From: sewnew2
Date: 06-15-2004, 09:37 AM (8 of 9)
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I have realized why the shoulders are too large; I should be choosing patterns by my upper bust size, not my bust size! Live and learn : -) I did shrink it a little bit, and it fits better. I was too chicken to dry it all the way, I think one more partial shrinking ought to do it. I am wearing it more like a jacket than a button down shirt anyway, with a tank top underneath. Heather
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User: sewnew2
Member since: 03-31-2004 Total posts: 70 |
From: gmcsewer
Date: 07-14-2004, 09:43 AM (9 of 9)
| Hi. I have the same problem. Measure your shoulder width from neck to the bone. Add 1/2 inch for ease. This is the measurement you should use. Check each pattern for this. I usually just trim the seam in far enough to make the seam fall where it should. You may have to add a little to the top of the sleeve, or probably the most professional would be to cut the sleeve pattern from top to bottom and spread it to compensate for the larger armseye. Depending on the size of your upper arm, you may want to add for the total length of the sleeve or just leave the bottom the same and add to the top. If there is fullness in the sleeve, you would not have to do this, but I make so many "shirts" that there is not much fullness. I have found on the ones like this, that if you sew with sleeve on the bottom, the feed dogs will ease in just enough to make them match exactly. |
User: gmcsewer
Member since: 08-19-2003 Total posts: 45 |
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