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From: pucktricks
Date: 06-09-2004, 03:57 PM (1 of 5)
I've been noticing recently that I have horizontal wrinkles in fitted shirts and some dresses under my arm going to my busts, and only in that area. At first I thought my problem was a broad back because it is often tight in the back (however getting a massage and my muscles all loosened up did help that significantly, go figure). But, like I said they don't seem as tight now, and the description of popping seams and such stuff from Fast Fit, doesn't really fit me.  So, any suggstions, or books I could find that would help. I have Fast Fit by Sandra Betzina, and that doesn't really have anything describing what I'm talking about, besides which I've recently heard lots of people saying that her adjustments work better for a more mature woman than I am (since I am still routinely being confused for high school, I don't think I fit into that category yet). Ticia 
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User: pucktricks
Member since: 03-31-2004 Total posts: 570 
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From: paroper
Date: 06-09-2004, 05:30 PM (2 of 5)
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In general, the wrinkles always "point" to the problem. Since we can't really see (and sometimes just feel) the problem, it is a little hard for me at least to guess accurately, but just reading seems to indicate that the bust is just a little fuller than the pattern or that the arm's eye is just a little too high or tight or maybe a combination of the above...depending on where the problem is pointing. If it were me, I would purchase some inexpensive material and make up just the top and sleeves of a pattern where this is happening. I would baste it together all over and then try it on, look at the problem rip and change the top until I had the fit that I liked. If the wrinkles lie within the bust line, I would slightly slip the front of the fabric forward, maintaining the back 5/8 seam to see if that helps (providing that the back fits correctly)...remember, you are doing this just to find out where the problem is, the alteration on an actual garment might be a little different. An actual full bust change normally requires opening up the bustline all the way across and making larger darts. If you suspect that you need a full bust measurment, that is the best direction to go. I have even been known to pin fabric strips into place..over the bustline to find the right amount to my test pattern. You can do the same basic thing to the arm's eye, tearing out the bottom seam and slipping the sleeve down just to see where the problem lies. Once you have found the problem and found the adjustment, you can do it on all your future patterns. If you get these adjustments correct, you can also just use the test pattern with alterations for you pattern.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: pucktricks
Date: 06-09-2004, 10:39 PM (3 of 5)
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okay, so I looked to see where the wrinkles were pointing, and it looked like they were pointing towards my underarm area. Which, from what you were saying is an armscye problem. This would make sense because I had a bodice I had made that seemed to be a little tight underarm. I was not entirely clear on what you were saying I should do for the under arm problem. Could you maybe explain again? (I'm somewhat of a visual learner, so that could be why it is not yet clear to me). Ticia, who is so glad there are more experienced people out there |
User: pucktricks
Member since: 03-31-2004 Total posts: 570
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From: paroper
Date: 06-09-2004, 11:55 PM (4 of 5)
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When it is under the arm you need to lower the arm hole and that changes the sleeve too. If it is slight, you may be able to cut the armscye deeper and make a slighter seam in the sleeve. When cutting the pattern you should be able to just cut the arm opening then re-lay the pattern slightly lower (distance dependent on how low you need the piece) and re-cut the lower portion of the piece to get the right curve. If you only need a tiny amount, an easy alteration to the matching sleeve would be to add the lowered amount to the width of the sleeve on each side, tapering the added amount to the forearm. The recommended way is to split the sleeve pattern just above the lower curve and add the extra amount there. This preserves the curve of the armscye (actually a French Curve). If you just take a bigger seam and do not add to the sleeve, you will shorten the lower portion of your sleeve which should make the sleeve too short under the arm and make it pull when you raise your arms. Once you decide how much alteration you need and the best way to do your alteration, it will become easy for you. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: pucktricks
Date: 06-10-2004, 12:09 AM (5 of 5)
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Thank you! That was a perfect explanation and made a lot of sense. Now, I have ideas on what to do when fixing the next shirt I make. Ticia |
User: pucktricks
Member since: 03-31-2004 Total posts: 570
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