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From: wifetod
Date: 06-13-2004, 12:20 PM (1 of 7)
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I am starting my silk and sheer top for my mom for the wedding. On my short sleeves which will be the sheer I want a 5/8 inch seam allowance in the seam so that I can do a french seam instead of the 1/4 inch seam the KS pattern calls for. I have figured out that it is 3/8 inches more I need to add. Now before I cut this, is this 3/8 to each side I am adding? I just want to make sure I am doing this right before I go any further. My brain is in overload right now. Thanks. Jolene
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User: wifetod
Member since: 01-19-2004 Total posts: 149 
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From: paroper
Date: 06-13-2004, 12:41 PM (2 of 7)
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If it were me, I would add to both sides...easier that way and then trim where necessary. I'd be the one that would add to the wrong side and then have a mess...just kind of the way my mind works.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: MaryW
Date: 06-13-2004, 01:43 PM (3 of 7)
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Yes Jolene, both sides.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
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From: paroper
Date: 06-13-2004, 03:41 PM (4 of 7)
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Sorry, Jolene, Mary is absolutely right. I was thinking about a flat fell seam where you trim one side. In French seams, you sew and then pull the seam through and sew the old seam inside. You must have the full seam allowance. In sewing through the years, though I have found that cutting is so crutial to the outcome of your product that it doesn't usually pay to try to short cut much there. I'll probably use the 5/8 seams on everything until I die, even if the pattern does not come with it because it not only makes for a smooth seam line but also adds a margin of error if your garment is just a smidge too tight.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: wifetod
Date: 06-13-2004, 03:57 PM (5 of 7)
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I am getting through this. Really taking my time and holding my breath as I go through some of this. What do you suggest for finishing around the armhole? It is silk essence for the top and the sheer is the sleeve. You can see through the sheer and see the rough edges. It is 1/4 inch seams. Also the way they are constructing the top I am going to have to do a mock french on this sleeve instead of a french one but that is OK, I have allowed for that seam with extra material. Thanks again everyone. Jolene
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User: wifetod
Member since: 01-19-2004 Total posts: 149
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From: paroper
Date: 06-13-2004, 11:10 PM (6 of 7)
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if you want a really smooth look, you might want to consider using seam binding around the inset portion of the sleeve. If you fabric is a little delicate, that would support the sleeve as well.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 06-14-2004, 08:23 AM (7 of 7)
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I use a French seam on armholes all the time. It gives less bulk (and is a lot easier) than binding them. Here's a tip with French seams -- sew the first seam -- wrong sides together -- about 1/4 inch, press it open and trim each side separately to 1/8 inch. When you trim it, it is a lot easier to do if you lay it over a seam roll. Here's another big tip -- think twice before you start sewing. Are the wrong sides together? Sewing with right sides together (and 5/8 seams) is habitual and comes natural. I do French seams all the time and still find myself starting to pin or even sew wrong sides together. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
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