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This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was retired in August 2007. It is being provided by “Sew What’s Up,” which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: sewnew2
Date: 06-21-2004, 05:54 PM (1 of 3)
Hi all;

I have just finished altering the pattern tissue for the front of a sleeveless top for a full bust alteration. The front as a result is now wider from the bust down and longer.

Since the front is now longer than the back, how do I sew the side seam? Do I shorten the front to match the back? Or do I try to ease it in by stretching the back piece as I sew it to the front?

This is my first alteration, and with the dart properly placed and the added tissue it looks as though I will finally have a garment that fits (as compared to the first two I have made without darts or the alteration!)

Thanks!
Heather
User: sewnew2
Member since: 03-31-2004
Total posts: 70
From: paroper
Date: 06-21-2004, 06:29 PM (2 of 3)
If the pattern is properly altered it will be longer in front but that will be taken up by the "extra" fullness in the bust. When you are wearing the top, the back and front should be the same length. The seams should also be the same...not the front longer. If the front is longer than the back when it is put together, you have added too much in the bustline. Since this is the first time you have done this, I would recommend making it up in some left-over fabric (even if it doesn't match) just to make sure that the alteration is correct. All you need to make is a full front and a full back complete with darts. I usually run a basting line at the seam allowance top, bottom and opening to make sure that everything is straight and matches correctly. This is a good opportunity to check and make sure the top is long enough and on the straight of grain and you have a generally good fit.
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: sewnew2
Date: 06-21-2004, 07:04 PM (3 of 3)
Of course! I wasn't thinking : -) of course the bust dart will raise it lol. I must be tired.

I will pin the tissue with the dart in and compare lengths.

Thank you! : -)
Heather
User: sewnew2
Member since: 03-31-2004
Total posts: 70
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