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From: Lee-Ann
Date: 07-10-2004, 08:34 AM (1 of 8)
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hi there, i'm really new at this and have no idea what they mean on the layout when they talk about bias and selvage. any help would be most appreciated! Lee-Ann 
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User: Lee-Ann
Member since: 07-09-2004 Total posts: 5 |
From: stitchmd
Date: 07-10-2004, 10:12 AM (2 of 8)
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Selvage is the finished long edge of the fabric. Threads running parallel to this are called straight of grain, threads running at 90 degrees (side to side) are called cross grain. A 45 dgree angle to these is the bias. If you pull along this direction you'll see that the fabric is stretchy. If you cut a piece that is oriented in this direction it will be stretchier and will drape differently than one cut along the grain. |
User: stitchmd
Member since: 02-25-2003 Total posts: 226 |
From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 07-10-2004, 12:45 PM (3 of 8)
I do not know which pattern you are using (from what company) but most of them have a glossary right up at the top next to the picture at the beginning where most of these terms are explained..It is usually before the layouts for the pattern pieces start.. If your pattern has one of these , you should read it over several times to get familiar with the terms and what they mean..
Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022 
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From: Lee-Ann
Date: 07-12-2004, 08:36 AM (4 of 8)
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Originally posted by LeapFrog Libby I do not know which pattern you are using (from what company) but most of them have a glossary right up at the top next to the picture at the beginning where most of these terms are explained..It is usually before the layouts for the pattern pieces start.. If your pattern has one of these , you should read it over several times to get familiar with the terms and what they mean.. I'm using McCall's pattern 3186 and it doesn't have an explanation only the wording on the pattern layout section. I found the reply of STITCHMD and the advice of a sewing friend that I finally managed to get hold of, very helpfull. I'm sure that I will find it easier as I sew more, especially when I get used to all the terminology and how my overlocker works 
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User: Lee-Ann
Member since: 07-09-2004 Total posts: 5 |
From: Lee-Ann
Date: 07-12-2004, 08:38 AM (5 of 8)
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Originally posted by stitchmd Selvage is the finished long edge of the fabric. Threads running parallel to this are called straight of grain, threads running at 90 degrees (side to side) are called cross grain. A 45 dgree angle to these is the bias. If you pull along this direction you'll see that the fabric is stretchy. If you cut a piece that is oriented in this direction it will be stretchier and will drape differently than one cut along the grain. Between yourself and a friend that I finally managed to get hold of, I'm starting to make head and tails of what I'm supposed to be doing. I'm sure that I will find it easier as I sew more, especially when I get used to all the terminology and how my overlocker works
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User: Lee-Ann
Member since: 07-09-2004 Total posts: 5 |
From: paroper
Date: 07-12-2004, 11:02 AM (6 of 8)
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If you follow the pinning instructions and measure your arrows, you probably don't have to worry about the bias and straight of grain when you are sewing. Just follow the pictures for your view of the pattern and lay it out as shown. As you lay your pattern, put a pin the the pattern arrow (usually located near the middle and runs a few inches the length of the pattern), measure from the arrow to the edge of the fabric, then measure up to the other end of the arrow from the edge of the fabric and shift your pattern until the measurment is the same at both ends and pin the arrow at that end. When the measurement is the same, your pattern should be straight. Then just pin your entire pattern into place. If you pin from the inside of the pattern 90 degrees to the outside, your pattern will not shift or pucker as badly and your cut will be more exact, especially for beginners. For your finished product to hang well and look well-made, it is necessary to get this grain straight. The real trick to sewing is not only in the measurments but in cutting and laying the pattern correctly...if that isn't right, your garment will never look as good. If the pattern you are making needs to be cut on the bias, the pattern company will change the arrow so that if you follow the above procedure it will be automatic. Once in a while you will see a skirt pattern where there are 2 arrows that bisect each other so that you can cut the pattern on the straight or bias. The trick to these patterns is that you use the same arrows for your pattern pieces. Have Fun! pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 07-12-2004, 05:14 PM (7 of 8)
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If you are cutting through two layers of fabric -- and you usually do for most patterns -- be sure the fabric is folded straight. That might call for straightening the grain a little, either by pulling a cross grain thread (carefully pull a thread out and cut along the thin line where the thread came out) or ripping the fabric (many fabrics will rip straight along the cross grain). Then you can fold the fabric so the cross grain and the selvages line up evenly and measure according to paroper's instructions and you shouldn't have any problems. She is right about how important it is to have everything as close to straight of grain as possible. If you screw that up you might as well chuck the whole thing because it will never look right. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: MartySews
Date: 07-18-2004, 07:18 PM (8 of 8)
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It might be helpful to you if you went to your local library and checked out a book on sewing. I would recommend "The Essential Guide to Sewing" by Nancy Zieman. She's very straight forward in her instructions with lots of photos to teach the sewing technique. Also, books from the Singer Library are great with lots of photos too. You will find lots of helpful information or you can order sewing books online if not in your local bookstore. I learn new things each time that I read my sewing books and they are very helpful on projects. Happy Stitching! Marty
It takes one moment to change a life.
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User: MartySews
Member since: 02-23-2003 Total posts: 504 
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