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From: paroper
Date: 07-10-2004, 01:42 PM (1 of 22)
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I had expected to be making 125 pair of sequin gauntlets by now, but instead, the school board decided to buy those for the band (yeah). Now I have a new project...a friend and I are making 60 flags for the color guard. They will be China silk and tissue lame'. I hate tissue lame'! Most of the flags will be done in circular seams. I have found that I can take a knit iron on interfacing, cut in tiny strips and iron it to the lame'. If I don't handle it too much, I can sew the initial seam and turn the flat fell before it falls off. Is there a better way? The reason I don't like lame' is because it ravels so terribly and doesn't like to be handled much. This method made a good strong seam, but if anyone has a better method....I thought of using a spray on glue to help hold the interfacing but I didn't think that I could control the spray and it is so expensive to waste. When I made the flat fell, I did not trim off the lame' because I didn't want to tempt fate. Rolling both seams inside seemed to work fine because the fabrick was so light. When I get through with this, I'll be making 18 color guard uniforms from knit jersey (thank goodness, they wanted to use spandex). I have three weeks to get most of the flags done, then the jersey will be in. I'll have a long top (to the lower shins and a pant for those. This really all needs to be finished by Labor Day. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Sewhappie
Date: 07-10-2004, 06:30 PM (2 of 22)
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paroper, I feel for you!!!! I did band uniforms for 5 years. I found that when I had to repair any of the silk flags I could use wax paper strips and serge the ends with a very short stitch, but easy up the tension so it doesn't curl. Any excess wax paper just pops off the unstitched side, but helps to suport the stitched area. Then just as an added messure I would seal the seams or edges with seam sealer. I had to make re-placement gaunlets for our flag line is seems like every two weeks!!!! I found the material, the band boosters paid for it and I drafted a pattern. I found with the jeresy that the wooly thread works best and gives & gives & gives!!! I was beginning to think that I was the only sewing band mom out there, glad to see someone else is at it too!!!! Another thing on the flags, it will depend on the material and the color, but try spray starching a sample until it is REAL stiff and see how it does with a serger. I did do alot of playing around with things to see how I could improve some of the "POOR" workmanship of ready made uniforms. Good Luck |
User: Sewhappie
Member since: 10-27-2001 Total posts: 1427 |
From: paroper
Date: 07-10-2004, 06:43 PM (3 of 22)
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Thank you so much for the information! The band director of 29 years retired this year along with his wife and her mother...the wife did the drill team and the mother did the flags. My daughter is the drum major so I volunteered to do her dress and the other drum major's uniform (guy). One of my best friends volunteered to help with the flags...and now we're doing it all...it's ok...it's just a time thing. I take care of a 2 year old during the day (lives with us) and she works. I don't mind the silk, but I really am not fond of lame'. I went to Hancocks and purchased the needles I needed and some small amounts of the fabrics I'll be working with so I could play around and see what I'd need to do to make it work. We are still waiting to see if the school board hires the assistant band director who will do the flags, but we spent some time drafting them the other day...the new band director (old assistant moved up) had picked the flags with her approval so that wasn't a problem. Good cutting tables and mats are wonderful! The color guard uniforms have in the past been made from Lycra and after each performance it was like makeing a new uniform. I am most anxious to make sure we don't have to do that this year. Thank you so much for the information on that too!!!! pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Sewhappie
Date: 07-10-2004, 10:29 PM (4 of 22)
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if i can help in any way just let me know. I may be in ohio but, I know what you are going through!!!! My daughter was Field Commander her Senior year and I had to make her uniform from scratch. back then she was a size 4/6. NOT NOW!!!! |
User: Sewhappie
Member since: 10-27-2001 Total posts: 1427 |
From: paroper
Date: 07-10-2004, 11:47 PM (5 of 22)
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I know what you mean. One of our girls is a very very petite freshman, probably a petite girl's size 10. We have another that is probably a 22-24 (just a guess). The good news is that the basic uniform is based upon a princess line...one of my favorites to fit and alter and pretty fast to sew. I have to take quite a bit of fullness out of the skirt to make it pretty straight. We are putting slits in the skirt that's why I asked for the princess line...they wanted to do it in a straight dress....and I wasn't sure how to get a good reinforcement at the top of the split without putting a patch reinforcement or a facing there and I didn't want a lot of extra stitching. We are using pj bottoms with elastic; couldn't be much easier. I've dealt with the size things a lot with choir dresses. The flags..well, that's a new breed of cat! There are a lot of curves in the flags and one of them has like an ocean wave with a curl in the middle. They have been drafted and I was thinking tonight that I'd better add notches before I cut them just to make sure that I get the right matches. I also need to mark the straight of grain before I cut the flags up and add the seam allowances. I am planning to run the grain parallel to the selvage. Do you agree? I'll probably be posting more.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Sewhappie
Date: 07-15-2004, 07:08 PM (6 of 22)
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Howdy, sorry for the delay have been moving my sewing room to a bigger room!!!!! As long as the straight of gains do not get mixed up on the different materials, go for it. let me know how the flags are coming along. Sewhappie |
User: Sewhappie
Member since: 10-27-2001 Total posts: 1427 |
From: paroper
Date: 07-15-2004, 08:10 PM (7 of 22)
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Congrats on the bigger room! I've been measuring and marking and adding the seam allowances...and now I'm on simmer until the fabric comes in...getting a little frusterated waiting...because time is ticking away. They are picking up the lame' tomorrow and have decided to order the China silk because they can order it from their band sources for 2.19 a yard, compared to 2.99 a yard locally. It should be in early next week. In the meantime, I can lay and cut lame' and that should help my frusteration. (Evey penny counts, the band parents are paying and they are getting pretty low on funds.) I have 1 1/2-2 weeks before the jersey gets in. I still need to alter the dress patterns to take out the extra fullness and make the neckline a cowl. Tomorrow and Sat (I think Sun) you can get a pattern for every $25 you spend (at Hancocks) so I've requested that they be sure and get my daughter's Vogue pattern for her dress with the purchase. Thank you for your support...I may be asking for help as I go...I think I have it in control...but I don't really like the lame'. They are going to change one of the silks to Twinkle too.. (That doesn't bother me because it has body and I haven't had as much problem with it raveling.)
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Sewhappie
Date: 07-24-2004, 11:32 AM (8 of 22)
| Just checking to see how the flags and uniforms are coming along! |
User: Sewhappie
Member since: 10-27-2001 Total posts: 1427 |
From: paroper
Date: 07-24-2004, 01:35 PM (9 of 22)
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my my internal motor is on rev but I'm still waiting for all the fabric to come in. I have one of the lame fabrics but I don't really want to cut it early because it is all curves. I have cut 20 pieces of twinkle that are arched, but they are mostly on the grain...so I have them hung over the blanket rack waiting for the rest to come in. I'm doing a couple of mock-ups of the guard dresses. In the original pattern she wanted a cowl neckline with cuts vertically into the dress up to the hips from lower shins. My problem with that was that I was afraid that I couldn't get enough hem in the top of the slash to keep it from running. Now that I have a piece of the jersey, running may not be as big an issue as I feared and I think a tiny drop of no-fray agent will take care of that...the other pattern would be a princess style straight shift which would allow the slashes to be in the seamline (my choice). The dresses would fit better and they would have a waistline. I'm going to mess with the neckline to see if I can get a good cowl out of it today. The problem with that is that the slashes to make the cowl go well into the bust area and affect the seamline of the side piece.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: paroper
Date: 08-01-2004, 09:34 AM (10 of 22)
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HELP! OK, so now I have one flag set (20) almost ready to do flat fell seams. The silly flags have curves everywhere...but these particular flags are in arches. Do I clip the inside curves (underneath) to help them turn as I normally would or do I just trim the seam a little to help them turn or do I just let the seam pucker a little? My concern was that if I clip the seams it might crate a place for the flag to ravel or split. I am turning the outside curve to the top so that that I don't have to fight that problem...or least it seamed like a problem with the lame. If I clip any of the flag material, would you trim or clip the lame if it was needed? That lame' is yucky stuff. Our guard is famous for twirling and throwing the flags.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: colojd
Date: 08-01-2004, 05:55 PM (11 of 22)
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I have used tissue lame in a lot of banners and you are right - it is a pain to work with. I found an interesting alternative at equilter.com. It is a cotton lame that came from India. It is more expensive than the tissue lame, but is an actual woven fabric with the metallic threads in it. It is not as bright and metallic as the tissue lame, but does have the nice gold sheen to it. I still use tissue lame but always put interfacing on the back to try to make it easier to handle. I wish some fabric manufacturer would come up with a version of tissue lame with one side as a lightweight cotton backing. That would help a lot. Joyce |
User: colojd
Member since: 05-03-2002 Total posts: 83 |
From: paroper
Date: 08-01-2004, 07:06 PM (12 of 22)
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Thanks for the heads up on the cotton lame. Next year it might be just the ticket. I have a great knit interfacing that I stripped and put on the flags to help stabilize the edges (in practice) it worked, but didn't stay on very long...I may try to just do a long baste to help hold it on because it really helped. I've worked with knit lame in the past...unfortunately, knit isn't so hot for this project and it is one-sided. (sigh)
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Sewhappie
Date: 08-01-2004, 08:28 PM (13 of 22)
| do you have a serger? serge the edges with a strip of stablizer , make sure you mark the flags at connection points so you can match it and not have it shift. |
User: Sewhappie
Member since: 10-27-2001 Total posts: 1427 |
From: paroper
Date: 08-02-2004, 12:23 AM (14 of 22)
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I marked the flags, checked the grains before I cut loose the designs, etc. so far that is all good. I did try the serge. I would have sworn that when I have serged lame' before it raveled and tore something terrible, but I just got the serger serviced and the blades changed...that could be all the difference. I tried serging the lame with the China silk and it serged beautifully and it held up to being handled. I now just have to figure out if I clip the inside curves of the under fabric if the flag might rip...I'm a little worried about that even though I'll have a flat fell over the top I'm just not very comfortable doing that, but the seams won't lay very well without it.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: colojd
Date: 08-02-2004, 09:00 AM (15 of 22)
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You can try running a thin bead of Seams Great along the stitched line and let it dry (it is the clear liquid that prevents ravelling). Once it is dry, then go ahead and clip right to the line of the Seams Great and that should prevent the ravelling. Be sure to let it thoroughly dry - may take an hour or so but it does work great. Regarding the serger, the problem with using a serger with tissue lame is that it is so thin. It is really a thin metallic thread going one direction and a clear or white nylon thread going the other way, so it is really different from regular fabrics and very difficult to handle. If you did use a serger, you would have to reduce the pressure of your presser foot and then put tear away paper or tissue paper along the seams just to give it stability. So as you can see, this is an unusual fabric that takes a lot of work to make it handle like a "normal" fabric. People are attracted to it because it is so shiny and glitzy and perfect for anything you want to do that needs a metallic look but has more than average handling when you sew it. Joyce |
User: colojd
Member since: 05-03-2002 Total posts: 83 |
From: paroper
Date: 08-02-2004, 09:23 AM (16 of 22)
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Truth: They are attracted to the stuff because they don't sew and they won't have to work with it. Thanks for the ideas. I know that I'll get this done and it will look good because I'll experiment until I get what I want. I just don't want it to rip later because I want flags that can be used more than a season. Unfortunately, I have been told that the flags that have lame in them don't last too long. I guess the Oklahoma winds ("sweeping down the plain") are just a little much for them. I just don't want to help the process.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: colojd
Date: 08-02-2004, 09:27 AM (17 of 22)
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Good luck and hope they turn out great. You will have to post some pictures of them! One other thought, you can topstitch down the seams from the right side and this will help give the seams a little more stablility too, especially if they will be whipping in the wind. Then all of the stress on the seam isn't on the one sewing seam. Joyce |
User: colojd
Member since: 05-03-2002 Total posts: 83 |
From: paroper
Date: 08-08-2004, 07:50 PM (18 of 22)
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Well, I'm reporting in on the project. I have had the material 10 days now. I assembled the basic portion of the first 20 flags in 10 days. The material for that flag is China silk and Twinkle. The silk didn't give me any trouble but I was suprised to find that the twinkle was so resilient when I went to flat fell. This flag is made of arches. It was taking me so long to do the flat fells on this flag that after 3 flags I was pretty discouraged and with 40 more to do and 18 dresses and pants and the drum majorette's dress and major's vest to make by Labor day I was worried. I was fearful that if I didn't get more speed I would get too far behind. So, I enlisted the help of another mother who is doing the flat fells and 3 of the side hems for me. She will return the flags for me to finish the sleeves. The lame is not giving me as much trouble as I expected. Since I am sewing it on the silk, it seems to give me enough body that the lame is behaving. On the second twenty flags, I have 2 of 7 pieces left to join to 18. The other two are assembled. All the seams inside seams are flat felled to this point (had to be to join to the lame) and the sleeve is attached except for being rolled and sewn down...waiting for the Velcro. Another friend has been helping me a lot by doing some of the cutting. She has volunteered to take the rest of this flag and get it ready to hem. We have found a volunteer to help us by heming these flags (hurray!) I'm getting ready to move on to the hardest flag of all. It has a circular wave in the center...I'm not looking forward to this one, it was hard to cut out so it won't be fun to put together. One thing I have learned! I DO HAVE TO TRIM AND CLIP THE CURVES and after testing the flags, I don't think it will effect their stregnth which is what I feared. Thanks for all your help!!!! When I finish this flag, I can get started on the girls' clothing. I don't yet have that fabric and notions. I've only drafted the pattern for one size at this point so I have a bit of work before I can start.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: colojd
Date: 08-09-2004, 08:11 AM (19 of 22)
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Wow, what an ordeal! You get points just for sticking with this difficult project. As I said, if some fabric manufacturer could come up with a tissue type lame that was less tempremental, I am sure it would be a hit! As it is, it is just too flimsy and tempremental! Good luck on the girl's outfits. Hope that they go smoother for you. Joyce |
User: colojd
Member since: 05-03-2002 Total posts: 83 |
From: paroper
Date: 08-09-2004, 08:23 AM (20 of 22)
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Someone has given me a lead on a cotton based lame. It is used for quilting and is fully washable. It said not to be as bright but much more stable. When I get these things off my table, I plan to write for a couple of samples. It might be a real possibility if it will "fly" and is not too heavy. I'm rather excited about the possibilities. My friend and I have already told them that if they want us to make sets for them next year we'd really like to work over the winter and not have a month to do all of this. I nearly passed out when she brought the fabric to me and said " We still haven't decided what color we want you to make the finale flag. We may just use the left-over scraps." The band is known for using a streamer for their finale....it is a few inches wide 6-8 I'd say by about 15 feet, made up of a mess of small patches about 6-8 inches square. (All I volunteered to make was my daughter's drum major dress and the guy's vest....what happened?)
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: guardsammy
Date: 03-05-2006, 07:04 PM (21 of 22)
| well i came across this web site and saw that most of yall have a lot of experience with sewing guard flags...i know the basics of sewing but i need to make a flag for my Aladin solo for my high school i was hoping yall could give me tips on easiest fabrics, sewing complications and how to avoid them, maybe even ideas for my flag.... i was hoping to make on flag for a 5 foot pole and 2 swing flags for a small dance part of my song...any help will be greatly appreciated....post or email me <email address removed for privacy> |
User: guardsammy
Member since: 03-05-2006 Total posts: 1 |
From: paroper
Date: 03-05-2006, 08:15 PM (22 of 22)
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Well, one thing I learned was that if you have a straight seam, do a French seam and then sew it down instead of a flat fell, it is stronger and it is faster.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
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