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From: Mrs Rabbit
Date: 07-17-2004, 12:34 AM (1 of 17)
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I've been asked to help a friend grade up a pattern for a 'larger girl'. Does anyone know where I can find the standard grading adjustments in a table form? I remember doing this at college (about 20 years ago), but naturally, threw out most of the useful stuff years ago! Thanks Jennifer |
User: Mrs Rabbit
Member since: 07-12-2004 Total posts: 10 
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From: paroper
Date: 07-17-2004, 09:13 AM (2 of 17)
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If I am using a 3-size pattern, I duplicate the ratios and proportions already present on the pattern. They are generally scaled for you and the easement is correct. I'm sure that there are many fine books out there to give you alternate instructions, but I usually find that if I figure how many sizes larger I need to make the pattern and continue with their scaling it works out well. The largest I have ever scaled a pattern though is from 16 to 24. I used their body measurments on the pattern envelope or pattern book to determine the size I need and I dodn't make any changes to the easements allowed...in otherwords, I simply scaled the pattern using pattern measurments for size 16 (for instance), determined the differences between my person's size, looked at the size 16 pattern and made the changes based upon the pattern envelope's recommendation for size rather than adding my own ease and starting with the measurments on the paper pattern. So if I am making a size that the company says would be a size 18, I lay the pattern out on a piece of paper and go around the outside of the pattern with a pencil, moving the pattern lines over the amount of difference between the 16 and size 14 pattern. If I were doing a size 20, I'd move the lines the distances between the 12 and the 16. Where the lines are the same, such as (usually) center front or back, I don't move the lines. Be sure to remember to do the facings too. If I need to go more sizes than the pattern, I find that it is easiest (for me) to scale to the largest size first and then scale it again.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Carol in ME
Date: 07-27-2004, 11:03 PM (3 of 17)
| Some years ago I purchased a pamphlet from Amazon Drygoods and Pickling Company: Maybe eight or ten pages that explain grading and the slash and spread method of pattern manipulation. It was well worth the $5 or so. It's not comprehensive of course, more like the REaders' Digest Condensed version of the process, but it will get you started. Short of that, you can try your public library. The sewing books are around #646 in the Dewey Decimal system |
User: Carol in ME
Member since: 01-27-2003 Total posts: 105 |
From: MartySews
Date: 07-28-2004, 02:08 AM (4 of 17)
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I use the slash and spread method. I buy pattern paper from NancysNotions.com because it is already graded. I also have some plain pattern paper too. When splitting my patterns I slit to the left of the grainline for adding inches. Since I need fullness in the middle as well as the sides, I start my adjustments at the armhole and work my way down. Always get the shoulders to fit first and then add or subtract as needed from there. There are several good fitting books that can be found at your local library. Use the person's individual measurements for a proper fit. Just because she might wear size 24 in RTW doesn't mean that is what she will need in a pattern. Look at the finished measurements on the pattern to determine wearing ease. Those are usually good guides. Threads May (?) magazine had a great fitting chart on the back cover. It was a good guide on which measurements to take. Good luck! Marty 
It takes one moment to change a life.
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User: MartySews
Member since: 02-23-2003 Total posts: 504 
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From: paroper
Date: 07-28-2004, 08:57 AM (5 of 17)
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The slash and spread method is one of the best methods for altering patterns. It primarily concentrates on widening the pattern to a larger size (or, of course sliming the pattern). While it is true that width is the most obvious problem when fitting for a larger size, every facet of their body is effected by their sizes (including feet and hands). If you are only changing the pattern one or sometimes two sizes, the slash and spread may be a perfect alteration. I prefer to use it when I am changing a particular body part. It is invaluable when changing to a full bust or upper arm alteration. When I am changing an entire size, I prefer to grade the pattern using the same allowances the pattern has...this allows for the subtile changes that occur at the neck and shoulders, naturally lower the hips slightly, allow for changes in the arm and underarm...(allows for the bust to lower because of shoulder changes), etc which occurs in most total size alterations and make a more complete ateration. It also makes the upper arm fuller. If you were working for a pattern company, that is the way you would change the pattern size and that is what you see when you are cutting on the lines of their patterns. It allows for a complete size change while allowing you to keep the pattern changes in proportion. It is easy to keep track of your changes because you are simply adding the the same amount that the pattern company does: If the pattern is graded to go from size 14 to size 16 and a size 14 is 36 bust, size 16 is 38 bust, then when you add a size 18, your bust will be correct for 40 bust and if you add 22 your bust will be correct with ease for a size 42. The rest of your pattern sizing will change according to the sizes listed on the back of the pattern envelope or flap. The pattern companies have made it easy to make simple alterations to their patterns so that if you have a combination size you now can cut the size you need without fancy alterations. Using their lead, you do not have to add the inches and refigure the easement when you are using the sizes on the pattern. When I have done this for bridesmaids dresses, my size 24 or 26 has been proportioned perfectly to match my size 10 or 12 bridesmaid. If you happen to be that size 26 bridesmaid, you don't want your dress to "somehow" look a little different from the other bridesmaids because when it does, you feel out of place.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: bbd
Date: 09-12-2004, 11:44 PM (6 of 17)
| Can anyone on this thread make it a little simpler with a diagram??????????I am a newbie to sewing, but this is exactly what I need to learn to do....help!! barbara bbd in the High Desert |
User: bbd
Member since: 09-12-2004 Total posts: 4 |
From: Material Girl
Date: 11-29-2004, 06:30 AM (7 of 17)
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I recently bought a fabulous book on pattern grading and have had great fun drawing them up.On the size scale it went sizes 8-10(as one size)then size 12, size 14 etc.I dint like the way they had made sizes 8-10 as one size so I took it as a size 10 then noted how the proportions graded the same amount in difference, then graded it down for a size 8. Sorry i cant give any diagrams but I hope you find a way of solving things. |
User: Material Girl
Member since: 10-04-2004 Total posts: 35 |
From: MaryW
Date: 11-29-2004, 09:50 AM (8 of 17)
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What book is it you worked from?
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
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From: Material Girl
Date: 11-29-2004, 10:49 AM (9 of 17)
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Metric Pattern cutting by Winifred Aldrich.Its my sewing Bible. Bought some more pattern paper at the weekend, Ive also moved my furnture around so I can fit in a cutting table so I can try things out. |
User: Material Girl
Member since: 10-04-2004 Total posts: 35 |
From: paroper
Date: 11-29-2004, 11:04 AM (10 of 17)
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I think one of the most important investments I ever made in my sewing room was a good cutting table!
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Material Girl
Date: 11-30-2004, 04:06 AM (11 of 17)
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Ive been rejigging my room around so I can get a cutting table in.Sadly the table is a wallpaper pasting table but itl do for now. What size table would you recomend getting? |
User: Material Girl
Member since: 10-04-2004 Total posts: 35 |
From: paroper
Date: 11-30-2004, 08:20 AM (12 of 17)
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My table is a full 39x74. I love the mat and T-square that fit on my table. With the rotary cutter, they have saved me countless hours in making big projects like drapes, flags for band, etc. Even if I made a table I think that it would be the perfect size. If it were me, I'd look for the biggest mat I could find and then try to find or make a table to fit it. This size allows me to measure a full two yards without any problem and lay out fabrics that are 60 inches doubled. I still have to "mess" with single layer fabric because only 36" lays down completely, but it is a pretty nice set up. Any large table (especially if you can get it up to the right height) no matter how it is made can really make your life sooooooo much nicer. It I had to make the choice, I'd invest in a self-healing mat and make the table out of whatever it took. If I used plywood, I'd have it cut, add bear claw edging to the side to make it smooth, fill any inperfectections, varnish or paint it depending on the condition of the wood, and add a mat. Mine is 12 years old and I sewed profesionally on that mat for about 7 years. It is not perfect but it is no where near worn out and along with the matching t-square has been a wonderful investment.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Material Girl
Date: 12-01-2004, 05:08 AM (13 of 17)
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My table isnt very wide about 2ft and about 5 foot long. Im going to put wooden boards over the top which we luckily have to make it a bit wider and sturdier. The mat,is that a cutting mat?Do you recomend using a rotary cutter,is it easy to use? |
User: Material Girl
Member since: 10-04-2004 Total posts: 35 |
From: paroper
Date: 12-01-2004, 05:37 AM (14 of 17)
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Yes....and no. A lot of people cut patterns with the rotary cutter. I'm not so good that I can use a rotary cutter (quickly) without a guide so I don't use it for cutting out patterns. I DO use it a lot for cutting bias stips, home decorative sewing (drapes, bedspreads) and tons of other things. There are all kind of things that I wouldn't even try without the rotary cutter and the t-square. In late summer and fall I cut out 76 guard flags and streamers. The rotary cutter was a life saver cutting out 20 foot streamers. My "t-square" is actually a long flat ruler with a lip that fits over the edge of the table soundly so that the lines can be nice and straight. It has markings for diagonals, as does the mat. It was purchased with the mat. I hang it when it isn't in use because I'm so afraid that I'll damage it. There are lots of (self-healing) mat sizes available. They don't have to be as long as your table if you can't find one that long and narrow. They also make a nice smooth cutting surface for your projects.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: MartySews
Date: 12-01-2004, 09:57 AM (15 of 17)
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My cutting table is a banquet size table (30 x 72) that I bought at Office Depot for $39.95 + tax. It is the perfect size for me. Also, it can be folded up and stuffed behind the sofa when not in use. Our main living/family room is my sewing area. It is all metal with a faux wood top and is extremely sturdy. No wobbles whatsoever. Happy Stitching! Marty 
It takes one moment to change a life.
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User: MartySews
Member since: 02-23-2003 Total posts: 504
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From: auzzi
Date: 12-02-2004, 07:43 AM (16 of 17)
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Metric Pattern Cutting by Winifred Aldrich. was used as the text book for the Drafting Course that I took XX years ago. They are clear, concise with good drawings. I have 1985 editions of Ladies, childrens' and menswear. If you are interested: Metric Pattern Cutting By Winifred Aldrich 1977 1979 1982 1985 1991 1992 1994 2004 Metric Pattern Cutting for Children's Wear By Winifred Aldrich March 1985 Metric Pattern Cutting for Children's Wear from 2-14 Years By Winifred Aldrich April 1985 Metric Pattern Cutting for Children's Wear: From 2-14 Years By Winifred Aldrich June 1985 December 1985 Metric Pattern Cutting for Children's Wear and Babywear: From Birth to 14 Years By Winifred Aldrich September 1999 Metric Pattern Cutting for Men's Wear: Including Unisex Casual Clothes By Winifred Aldrich June 1980 Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear By Winifred Aldrich March 1985 Metric Pattern Cutting for Men's Wear: Including Unisex Casual Clothes and Computer Aided Design By Winifred Aldrich 1990 1997 Fabric, Form & Flat Pattern Cutting By Winifred Aldrich March 1996 Pattern Cutting for Women's Tailored Jackets: Classic and Contemporary By Winifred Aldrich January 2002 |
User: auzzi
Member since: 10-28-2003 Total posts: 56 |
From: Material Girl
Date: 12-02-2004, 11:14 AM (17 of 17)
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My guess at measurements was more or less spot on.24"x76" Rotary cutter sounds like a good idea for making your own bias binding.I can rarely find any to match the material Im using. |
User: Material Girl
Member since: 10-04-2004 Total posts: 35 |
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