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From: MaryW
Date: 08-03-2004, 11:28 AM (1 of 12)
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Londa is sewing her daughter's gown for her wedding. She has graciously shared the experience so far. I think this will be fun - you can all vicariously design, figure out, and stitch this gown along with me. The goals are several: 1) Have all of you great seamstresses to 'bounce' things off of as I need to make decisions on how'to's... 2) Share the experience 3) Hopefully, you'll learn some things that you can make use of sometime in your sewing days... I will both attach the scans and photos and give website links that you can paste into your browsers to see the pictures - in case the attachments don't work for you. I do want you go be able to see everything so you can picture it. Sew.... first day: Carmen had pulled this picture out of a magazine - citing it as the "Dream Dress". Undoubtedly thousands $$$ to buy - and of course, even if I had the $ laying around, not enough time to order anyway... Besides, I've always dreamed of making a gown for my daughter. So - she was driving and I was sitting and drawing - and thinking - Wow, this is just a tad more complicated than what I was hoping for....... Here is the picture of the gown: http://www.londas-sewing.com/images/gownfront.jpg As if that weren't enough - she has always talked about lacing in the back - so here is the OTHER picture she whipped out... http://www.londas-sewing.com/images/gownback.jpg So - when we got to the fabric shop - Something Wonderful in north Indianapolis, we started by pulling out all the embroidered fabrics - for the skirt side insert. This is only for the left side (opposite of the picture, actually) of the gown - and spanning side front to side back. We already knew the top would be shirred silk georgette, and the basic dress Duchess Satin - (I opted for polyster, 60" wide) - and ordered a full bolt today. Ivory, off-white in color. I'm SO glad she didn't want pure white - as she is all tan and wears the fall colors so welll - and a candlelight wedding outside in some botanical gardens. So - here is the fabric she selected for the base of the Skirt Insert. On top of it is one of the medallions we also purchased (we got 4 of them) and the beaded trim she selected for the very lowest hemline edge of the Skirt Insert. http://www.londas-sewing.com/images/gownlace.jpg So - that is (our) project, gals! I have tissue fitted a princess lined bodice to her that I will make of muslin. ONce that is fitted - I will insert spiral steel boning (I'll scan that for the next Update). It will all actually be waist length and supported from the waist inside. The 'sleeves' are just for a bit of 'modesty', and won't serve to hold up the gown at all. Bridal Couture by Susan Khalje is where you can read all about the particulars of how to do this. Of course, I can't find my copy - so have ordered that book again. I'll get some extras in for the website to sell - as I'll just bet some of you might want to have this great resource on hand. Then, I'll create an outer layer that goes longer - past the waist to the skirt/bodice slanted seam - of the bridal satin. Then..... here I need some opinions, pretty please... For the shirred bodice - I have planned on triple fullness. I can't decide if I should just make a tube and shirr it with gathering at the top and the bottom, then pin-fit it onto her, pinning through the rows that spiral around at an angle - and stitch the bias strips of satin down through that and the bridal satin layer OR Should I slash and spread each princess pattern piece, making each 3 times wider - and having French seams joining each section. AND Should I plan on figuring out the exact placement of those spiral bindings and set gathering stitches in the pieced together silk georgette bodice while they are flat - thereby controlling more completely the fullness below each bias strip. Well - weigh in with your recommendations, pretty please!!!! Maybe there is another way yet - I'm certainly open! The Bridal Satin won't arrive for at least a week - which is fine, because I have my last Sewing Camp with kids going on this week mornings and afternoons. MaryW
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User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
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From: MaryW
Date: 08-07-2004, 06:02 AM (2 of 12)
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An update from Londa. ... then I plan to get the bodice underpart fitted this weekend, and spiral steel boning set into it. The directions for how to do all that are in Susan Khalje's book: Bridal Couture: excellent. The bands on the bodice are to be of the bridal duchess satin. I'm thinking 1/2" wide. I plan to cut them bias, 2" wide, fold WRONG sides together, stitch 1" from the fold very accurately, then press seam allowance open and centered on what will be the back side of the bands, then trim down the seam allowance to 1/4". Principle here is since they'll be stitched down: why turn a tube??? And, always press seam open with a larger seam allowance at hand, then trim. The lacing in the back, I think, needs to be more like 3/4" wide. I'm thinking they should be bias as well. these will have to be tubes though - arghhhh. Pretty long as well - and the satin is heavy, so even a Fasturn probably won't be long enough. Suggestions? It will have to conceal one of those T word things (tatoos) at her lower back! I'd be interested in your opinions regarding the width of the bands as just shared. I have a treasure chest of silks for lining the dress, so even if the bridal satin doesn't arrive early next week, I think I can go ahead and complete the bodice with the exception of the bands. Send prayers up for the speedy delivery of the satin (and bridesmaids' gown fabric!). This wedding is outside, 7 pm in central Illinois, on a red oriental bridge overlooking a pond. They're thinking floating candles in the pond, luminairias lighting the paths, etc. Any ideas on punching a design in the white luminaria bags??? I"m hoping it isn't cold. And, if it rains, she says everyone can sit in the rain, as SHE is getting married on that bridge! Was hoping the preacher would talk her out of it, but NO... he's done weddings on the bridge! The other challenge is we can't get into the reception site until 5 pm to decorate! I AM trying to sleep at night! MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542
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From: MaryW
Date: 08-12-2004, 09:24 AM (3 of 12)
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More action on the dress. Well - I have the inside underpinnings - I'll call "Bustier" done! The satin fabric is due to arrive tomorrow - and I'm certainly ready for it! Here is picture of the inside: http://www.londas-sewing.com/images/bustierinside.jpg I've also attached it to this email. So, either paste the link above into your browser to see if the attachment doesn't come through for you. This is a lightweight silk. To the opposite side of this is tacked a half bra that we bought at Victoria Secrets - initially thought it would just stick to her sides as sold to us - but for her ample bustline (D at least), the sticky on the sides just didn't hold. The horizontal stitching you see is the Petersham ribbon (that I handle) waistline stay, stitched along both sides - stitching broken at each metal stay as one can't stitch through the spiral steel boning. I"ve extended this waistline stay all the way around the waistline and added a secure pant hook to hook it together. I figure (hope) this will be covered by the wide lacing at the center back anyway. Here is a picture of the outside: http://www.londas-sewing.com/images/bustieroutside.jpg (also attached) . From this side, you see a tightly woven muslin type fabric . Between this layer and the inside is yet another layer of the silk. I stitched through these 2 layers alone (after pin-fitting pretty closely) to create the channels for the boning. Against this will go the satin outer layer - that then yet gets covered up with the triple fullness shirred silk georgette. Here is a picture of the Spiral Steel Boing - that is the best to use according to my experience, and recommended by Susan Khalje in Bridal Couture. http://www.londas-sewing.com/images/spiralsteelboninglg.jpg (also attached). You can see how it bends - so it bends with the body, yet gives great support. The loose little things are the tips. I buy this stuff in a big hunk, then cut it to the exact lengths I need. The rough ends then are covered with these little tips - which I've found impossible to just crimp on - I add Tacky Glue to the project. I had cut and glued them all last night so it would be ready for the day's work. Roughly, there are boning strips at the Center Front, at a V at the bottom of the center front, at the front princess seams, at a point about 4" to the side of the princess seams, at the side seams, about 2" out from the side seams, and at the back princess seams. Yet to add are the ones along either side of the center back for the V shaping at the center back to create the laced area. http://www.londas-sewing.com/images/gownback.jpg and attached. I haven't started that thinking process much yet. A sewing friend on Patternreview recommended that I make the loops along the sides that the lacing goes through out of the self fabric, with the rattail inside, instead of just the rattail, and I have decided to do that. Especially after realizing how corseted Carmen wants this to be - there will be LOTS of stress on the midriff of this gown, and I'd just die if the rattail loops gave out during the evening. I also have decided (with patternreview sewers help) to cut the back lacing on the bias, but encase (and use to turn the tube) a piece of satin ribbon for strength. This way, the bow that the lacing ends in will be nice and drapey. I've done a small sample of the shirring, and decided that it does, indeed need to be 3 times the fullness of the bodice itself. I need to think through the sleeves now - or shall we say the sleeve effect. I'm thinking that perhaps little strips of boning might need to be encased to have them keep their shape from top to bottom. And, perhaps clear elastic spanning the arm as well. Open for suggestions... http://www.londas-sewing.com/images/gownfront.jpg and attached (again). Remember, the bottom shaping of the bodice: high on her left side, low on the right. This has been pretty much established already. WE don't seem to have as much bodice length as shown on the model - in other words, not as much room between the bust and the waist as on the model - so I"m not sure how many spirals of bias satin yet. Here is my first sketch (done in the car on the back of a notebook paper). http://www.londas-sewing.com/images/gownsketch.jpg - and attached. As always - open for suggestions! 
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542
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From: MaryW
Date: 08-12-2004, 09:27 AM (4 of 12)
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Another Update. Sewing Friends, A busy day stitching and thinking and doing and undoing and re-doing. I think I came up with some good solutions though - especially after talking to the Duct Tape Lady: Jean Haas, my friend, and some emailing with some PatternReview gals. Instead of a full bodice tube shirred and the bias strips spiralsed around, I've cut 2 1/4" strips - LOTS of them, as long as possible, of the silk georgette, and will gather those and spiral them around, butting their edges. All this on top of the satin bodice that I made this afternoon after the satin (bolt) finally arrived. Then, I'll stitch the bias satin tubes over the butted edges. The strips of sheer, being bias, will drape in better, and I'll have more control to shape it all to her. To figure this out - yardage needed, etc of the shirring (I'm doing it 3 times fullness), I cut ans spiraled tissue strips around her body. http://www.londas-sewing.com/images/wrappedwithpaper.jpg. Kind of looks like a mummy, eh? Tonight after a church meeting, I stitched all the bias strips for the wrapping spirals, and the straight wider strips for the back lacing on the bodice, and also did the rattail stuffed bias tubing to create the loops that the lacing goes into. I also fitted one of the 2 bridesmaids. Time for bed! Thanks, all for your kind thoughts and sharing my way. I do truly appreciate it! MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542
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From: MaryW
Date: 08-12-2004, 09:28 AM (5 of 12)
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Making progress. I can't remember what I'm up to in 'installments'! . No pictures yet today - but a quick report on successes of yesterday. I'm off to work on it having checked email for business - which continues to need attending, of course. Here is what I got done, figured out yesterday... With luck, I'll finish the bodice today - but for sure tomorrow. All according to schedule! I am gathering the bias strips of chiffon - cut 2 1/4" wide. I did consider rolled hem edges over fishing line, but that just didn't give enough control. Needles to say, I"ve wound many bobbins! I have 2+ rows to go as I work my way up the gown. As I do this, I"ve temporarily had the outer satin layer to which this is being stitched attached to the 'rest' of the top corselette, with the bottom open. Last night I had to un-attachi it at the top to be able to get in there with the machine. I just feel the shaping of the boned 'thing' helps get it all accurate. I gather, pin, baste with silk thread the bottom row - and then kind of do the top row, then stitch the bottom row, then double check the top row pulling it quite taut against the secure bottom row of stitching. THEN, measure the 2 1/4" from the bottom stitching and mark, then baste and then sew the top row. Then, trim excess off both with my Applique Scissors. WHeww.......... ONe thing I quickly realized is that since it is spiraling around the body at an angle, I had to keep the gathers vertical on her body, not at 90 degrees with the strip. Just took one row pinned on to see that - Pictures later. Thanks again for all the help!!!!! Oh - glasses seem to be better for this. And, for my body - I work til noon, then come up and shower. This afternoon and next I have my private student too. Yesterday afternoon I had 2 students. So, that slowed progress some. I still think I'm on schedule though. MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542
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From: MaryW
Date: 08-16-2004, 11:43 AM (6 of 12)
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Well - the bodice is almost done! I'm just doing handwork on the sleeves (3rd try!), and it will be totally done. Let's just say I don't want to gather both sides of bias silk georgette chiffon for a good time to come! Please remember as you look at these pictures, that the layers are not attached at the bottom, and don't have the weight of the skirt to pull them all down into place. Also - the lacing was just first quick try. I did it again later and realize it will be a 2 person job - somewhat like tying a package to hold the last lacing tight. It is also a thinking job as one needs to remember which side overlaps which! You can barely see that Tattoo underneath - but she will wear a flesh colored big bandage over it. There is a petersham grosgrain waist stay with a sturdy hook at the waist - and that can be added to if necessary - see next paragraph! Also - I'm thinking a velcro joining at the bottom of the bodice in the back and a large inverted pleat at the center back of the skirt. Here is a picture: http://www.londas-sewing.com/images/gownbodicefront.jpg And - the back - http://www.londas-sewing.com/images/gownbacklacing.jpg The binding around the top actually got firmed up by placing another strip of satin at the top - AND it raised it a bit higher - but don't tell the bride! And, speaking of packages, this is a double package here! My first grandbaby is inside this voluptuous body - and the lacing will definitely be utilitarian to allow for further boob and perhaps a little tummy expansion. As I say, certainly not the order I preached for many years - but they were planning on getting married anyway, and she's always had motherhood at the TOPS of her list. I take responsibility - gladly - for that. Part of what I preached was the importance of the job of motherhood! She'll pretty much be an at home Mom too - with a job in management at UPS for 4:30 - 9:30 Mon - Friday. Gee - I wonder who will babysit???? Both of my kids were adopted as infants after many years of infertility sadness, so I feel like I'm pregnant myself! They are even letting me go to the DR. appointments. I'll tell you I was a nervous wreck when I went with them Tues., afraid to hear perhaps it was NOT true - as I'd heard so many times myself. I actually cried when the gal (actually an old shop customer of mine too!) told us for sure there was a bay on the way. So - double all my excitement, and join me in prayers for a healthy little one come March! The sleeves are a challenge! I first tried ones lined with crinoline, backed with silk, and underlined with satin - NO - All wrong!!!! She was right - when you look at the picture of what we're copying, the gathered part looks shirred. So - then we tried double sheer - no..... so then we figured single sheer, and banding just narrow and about half the width of the banding on the bodice, actually - so those are in process. To be able to dance, and move her arms up and down, we figure elastic in top and bottom - so I'm sandwiching some of the clear elastic in the bindings. So - my go at these for the then 3rd time (not taking up most of a Friday - and still the handwork to do yet today), I was getting smart. Having by now determined the exact width and length needed, to set the bindings on and get uniform width to the wiggly bias gathered sheer, I stitched the gathered sheer to a piece of the satin that would serve as both the gauge, and the bindings. Then, slit the satin up the middle - thus giving me both the bindings. I then anchored the clear elastic at one end of each sleeve and now am carefully turning under and whipping down the inside edges of the bindings, taking care not to catch the elastic letting it move freely within the casing. Pretty smart, if I do say so myself! Here is a picture - doing both sleeves in this technique as a long strip which I cut in half obviously. http://www.londas-sewing.com/images/sleeveconstruction.jpg Today - I cleaned my kitchen and the first floor - now down to cut first Bridesmaid's dress and vacuum, as we're meeting the groom's mother here for pizza and decadent dessert here tonight. Thanks for living through this all with me! Sewing hugs, MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542
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From: MaryW
Date: 08-31-2004, 11:49 AM (7 of 12)
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Well - this is SEW much fun! I'm kind of sad to see it get this far - but I have a stole (more on that later), a purse, garter, etc. to have fun with yet. The skirt has been more of a challenge than I thought. It is SO heavy - underlined with china silk. Front, sides, side backs, center backs. She keeps having to go pee pee when we get draping!!!!!!!!!!!!! Any ideas??? Here are first pictures from earlier this week - I think Tuesday. I've done some more work on the skirt since then. http://www.londas-sewing.com/images/gownleftsidefirsttogether.jpg http://www.londas-sewing.com/images/gownbackunlaced.jpg not laced up - but you get the idea... The sleeve just doesn't allow for movement - though I have free moving (at this point) clear elastic in top and bottom bindings. Figured I'd just tack the sleeves on, but she can't move her arms in them - so I think they will be scratched. What's half a day - right? http://www.londas-sewing.com/images/sleevesandbodice.jpg Yesterday we hit on the idea of attaching the skirt left side (which I've attached to a slimmer, complete additional lining piece that goes entirely around her) to the crinoline as a separate unit. That seems like a good idea. I had fun laying out all the laces, etc. to embellish that inset part - so looks more scrumptious now. Of course, beads to add to everything - will do that to eaach motif before attaching to the skirt - and all that before stitching the crinoline to it. A good plan, I think. I'll try to get some really good pictures tomorrow when she comes again... Also - held my breath and plotted and cut back and faced the front skirt in a swoosh to reveal that left skirt inset. Now to do the same to the back. I personally think it would all look better without a train at all - and especially since outside - but what do I know??? Oh - she figured out she has been laboring over invitations (she made them up, 3 pieces each, attached together...etc., I'll get a photo too) for each PERSON she thought was coming - rather than party (usually 1 to a party) - DuHHHHHH! Another great memory - Oh, and then the groom had all of them addressed (now at this point he hadn't realized they had double the invites made either!), and they discovered the printer had given them too small of envelopes - so we went and they gave us the right size. Memories, I'd say! I always firgured that planning and executing weddings is just an exercise in management that every young woman has to go through - training for life. I'm trying very hard to help her keep it all in perspective and to treat everyone involved (even the printer) with the love of Christ. It occurred to me yesterday in the midst of all the invitation hullaballoo of how many weddings have been totally interrupted (in addition to everything else) down in Florida! When I shared that thought with her, she certainly paused.... Thanks for following along... MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542
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From: MaryW
Date: 09-09-2004, 09:35 AM (8 of 12)
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Hemmed around that wedding dress by hand last night - 1 1/5 good hours!!! Stitched on 1" wide horsehair braid to right side of fabric, 1/4" from edge - then turned in - made a nice, firm edge bound with the satin. Stitched long stitch on other side of horsehair braid by machine to pull it up to shape. Stitching ONLY through the china silk underlining. Equals totally firm, invisible hem! One more fitting to make sure the bodice/skirt joining is OK - after cutting back both the front and back of the overskirt on the left side so as to see more of the decorative insert. That makes 4 times I redid those bias facings!!! Once I'm SURE it is hanging right at the waist, I'll bind inside with silk so no bulky unsightly seam. Also added more rhinestones to the underskirt yesterday - what fun!!! Again - LOVE that Lorna's Decorative Touch Wand. Now to see how many rhinestones I used and get them off, and out of stock. :( MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542
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From: MaryW
Date: 09-09-2004, 09:37 AM (9 of 12)
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I keep sharing about what is all-encompassing for me right now, my daughters' wedding coming up Sept. 25. Learned about it all - began, July 19 or so. Here is one of the latest pictures: (not new) http://www.londas-sewing.com/images/gow827fullfront.jpg Actually finished handwork today/tonight - Sunday. Took some of the china silk and cut a 2" wide bias, turned under one edge and slipstitched to skirt side of bodice and skirt seam inside, then flipped up covering that bulky seam that I graded, and trimmed the bias down a bit, turning under the edge and slipstitched to bodice side. It looks MUCH nicer now. Also invisibly tacked down the 'lip that conceals the bodice to skirt seam on the outside. Did that about halfway down the depth of it. Since the insert part of the skirt is hooked to the crinoline as a totally separate piece, yet I want the skirts attached with a French tack at the very bottom hemline, I came up with finger crocheting a thread chain on the underskirt part about 1" long, stitching the female end of a clear snap to th end of it. Then - at the final fitting - probably Tuesday - I'll locate the exact spot to stitch the male end of the invisible clear snap to the inside of the overskirt/dress section. She's concerned about 'potty' needs during the evening. We figure taking off the crinoline/decorative insert piece, yet leaving on the dress itself (lacing and all) will make this quite manageagle. Something I'd never thought about having to think about.... anyone else?? Also finished the purse. My Mom did a nice job beading the lace edge/ruffle of it. She is 81. I"ll be sure to get a picture of all the accessories Tuesday too. MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542
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From: MaryW
Date: 09-09-2004, 09:40 AM (10 of 12)
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Had a final fitting yesterday and snapped a quick picture. There are still some tweeks to make on the skirt - I had thought I should attach the outer layer to that inner layer at the bottom, which I did with a pin through that snap on the end of the crocheted thread - but, as you can see, that obviously does not work. I know now, after having her move around, that too much contriving of fabric just doesn't work. These layers need to be free from each other - and the pretty part goes back sufficiently underneath so it isn't a problem. http://www.londas-sewing.com/images/gownfullfront9704.jpg] I've also concluded that the lacing is definitely NOT a one person job - you can see I didn't even get it centered on her body trying it alone - but that is what maids are for! Actually, the back is all working out quite well. Here is a quick snapshot.. I'm calling it done til final fitting Thursday before the wedding. My brain is more into the flowers right now - which I'm ordering today, and will assemble at our church the day before. Yes, I'm doing all that. I'm looking forward to it. Some training from way back that will come into use - one college course that has truly enriched my life! Again - much thanks for living through this with me and all of your suggestions! I'm off on a vacation to the Caribbean - if you can believe that! MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542
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From: MaryW
Date: 09-27-2004, 11:53 AM (11 of 12)
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Well - the wedding is over! Except for the pick-up of everything. You wouldn't want to see my house today!!! In case you might have missed it, here is a pic I snapped of my daughter before her wedding. They got married on that bridge behind. Moon came out behind clouds almost full right as they were saying their vows. The candlelight all over the garden was beautiful. My church friends worked a miracle getting the reception all decorated between 5 when they could get in and 8 when we all arrived. Now I'm gonna put lots of that stuff up on eBay for sale!! Some extra food, ddrink to return along with tuxes, etc. etc. today. ONly disapointment was about 40 who didn't show up who said they would - mostly young friends of them. Very aggravating! Oh well - a wedding is much l ike Christmas - it is the entire experience, the preparation, the heart, the special times together before just as much as the event itself. I'm VERY glad we only had 2 months to prepare and spend $!!!!! I promise to be getting sewing gab going here again this week. Thanks so much for 'living' through all this with me! http://www.londas-sewing.com/images/newlettercmr.jpg for her picture. I did the flowers too - what fun that was! MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542
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From: iveta
Date: 11-15-2004, 12:41 PM (12 of 12)
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Thank you for taking your time and share -I find it very educational. Iveta. |
User: iveta
Member since: 11-15-2004 Total posts: 3 |
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