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From: blackie
Date: 08-28-2004, 04:51 PM (1 of 32)
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OK, whenever I try to hem a knit fabric it ends up ruffle-edged. I have been using jerseys (t-shirts) and spandex-ish material and can't make a hem that lies flat. I am using a zig zag stitch on my machine. A serger is not an option at this time. Yes, I am using a ballpoint needle. I have tried to slightly stretch the fabric while I sew. None of this is really helping! I want to conquer the world of knits but am having a terrible time! Any help is appreciated!!! 
see the mundane life of a housewife.
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User: blackie
Member since: 03-31-2004 Total posts: 594 |
From: NanCee
Date: 08-28-2004, 06:31 PM (2 of 32)
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Blackie, Do not stretch, thats a sure fire way to get a ruffle. If your using a ballpoint and decent thread and not stretching! Then try putting some paper under your fabric and sew at a normal speed, but check your tension 1st. |
User: NanCee
Member since: 04-15-2004 Total posts: 76 |
From: NanCee
Date: 08-28-2004, 06:37 PM (3 of 32)
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Blackie, forgot to say that when you use the zigzag stitch, there is no need to stretch as the stitch itself gives that extra length, and also dont use too tiny a zigzag. If your thread matches your garment color it will still look nice even if its a bigger stitch. |
User: NanCee
Member since: 04-15-2004 Total posts: 76 |
From: sewingrandma
Date: 08-28-2004, 06:58 PM (4 of 32)
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I like to use a twin needle when I hem my knits and haven't had any problems with ruffling, plus it stretches when complete. I do make sure the tension is set for knits. I found that was my biggest problem when I first started to sew, tension. In Home Ec the teacher stressed "never touch the tension". I did this alot until I found out I could adjust the tension on my machine.
Brockie
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User: sewingrandma
Member since: 03-06-2003 Total posts: 432 |
From: Sewhappie
Date: 08-28-2004, 07:35 PM (5 of 32)
| use a longer zig-zag stitch and less tention , and push the fabric INTO the presser foot. Make sure that you stay on the whole edge of the fabric, if you sew half on & half off you will run the risk of bunching up the material and pulling it down into the feeddogs. |
User: Sewhappie
Member since: 10-27-2001 Total posts: 1427 |
From: Skye
Date: 08-29-2004, 04:43 PM (6 of 32)
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I use a twin needle to hem my knits. I usually try to use wooly nylon hand wound onto the bobbin too if I have the right colour availble. If if is really stretching out of shape you could stablise with a knit interfacing or a wash away one my 2 cents worth. Skye |
User: Skye
Member since: 09-28-2000 Total posts: 233 |
From: NanCee
Date: 08-29-2004, 05:40 PM (7 of 32)
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Blackie... I dont know if its still available, but Singer had a book,soft cover that was called "How to sew fashion knits" and like the fellows say " its a keeper" I have the book and find it very useful. Its been borrowed many times but now its under wraps in the sewing room because like me its beginning to show thw wear! ha ha. I like to sew with the knits, so quick andno one has the same thing as your wearing. 
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User: NanCee
Member since: 04-15-2004 Total posts: 76 |
From: blackie
Date: 08-29-2004, 10:20 PM (8 of 32)
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What is a twin needle, and how does it help in sewing with knits? The manual from my machine is woefully lacking. Thank you for all the other tips. I will definitely put them to use! see the mundane life of a housewife.
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User: blackie
Member since: 03-31-2004 Total posts: 594 |
From: Sewhappie
Date: 08-30-2004, 12:01 PM (9 of 32)
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Blackie, you can get twin needles at any sewing supply center, Joann's, Hancock Fabrics, etc.. They come in different sizes on the needles, and this will make the needles set either narrower or wider on the main stem that they sit on. You many have to check the opening on your throatplate to make sure that they are narrow enough to fit comfortably into it, also that they don't fit offside. If that is the case check to make sure you are set solidly on a straight sticth. You use two spools of thread, you have to adjust your tension a bit looser. They will sew on a striaght stitch, but as they are sewing they will bounce the bobbin thread into a zig-zag stitch. Needless to say that you use this for top-stitching the hem from right side of the piece. They are great for decorative stitching also. They are just one more item in the many that will help you get a clean finish to a project, once you get the hang of how to use them. PRACTICE on scraps to get comfortable and soon you will be whipping out "T's" left and right!!!!!!! |
User: Sewhappie
Member since: 10-27-2001 Total posts: 1427 |
From: SewSewSandi
Date: 08-30-2004, 05:18 PM (10 of 32)
| Another thing you can do is apply Steam-a-Seam 2 on the hem before stitching. This is a double-sided adhesive product. Finger press a strip onto the hem, remove the paper, and press the hem into place. That will keep the hem stable while you sew with a twin needle. The result should be a professional looking hem. |
User: SewSewSandi
Member since: 06-24-2003 Total posts: 8 |
From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 08-30-2004, 06:29 PM (11 of 32)
Twin needles also now come for knits.. They work better on knits also.. I bet one of the stitch sites has examples on their websites... 
Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022 
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From: MaryW
Date: 08-30-2004, 06:44 PM (12 of 32)
SewSewSandi, hi and welcome to Sew Whats New. 
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
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From: bunzino
Date: 09-04-2004, 09:14 PM (13 of 32)
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OK, this is a really dumb question. how do you get the steam a seam out after you've stitched? nancy |
User: bunzino
Member since: 08-16-2002 Total posts: 119 |
From: stitchmd
Date: 09-05-2004, 11:04 AM (14 of 32)
| I can't answer the Steam a Seam question. I use Wash A Way Wonder Tape, a double stick tape which bastes and stabilizes, can be sewn through without gumming the needle, and, as the name says, washes out. |
User: stitchmd
Member since: 02-25-2003 Total posts: 226 |
From: blackie
Date: 09-05-2004, 03:47 PM (15 of 32)
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I just bought a twin needle and some Steam a Seam 2 Lite. I am excited to try out the tips on this forum. Nancy, the Steam a Seam isn't meant to wash away. That is why it is really lightweight. It doesn't add to the bulk of the fabric at all. see the mundane life of a housewife.
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User: blackie
Member since: 03-31-2004 Total posts: 594 |
From: MartySews
Date: 09-05-2004, 05:36 PM (16 of 32)
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You can also use a water soluable stabilizer on the outer layer to avoid puckers. Just a thought to the other suggestions. Happy Stitching! Marty 
It takes one moment to change a life.
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User: MartySews
Member since: 02-23-2003 Total posts: 504 
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From: jasmag
Date: 09-07-2004, 01:27 PM (17 of 32)
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How much do you change the upper tension? I assume you loosen the tension. I have a Viking 555. I like the idea of the Steam a Seam. I had never heard of using that. jasmag |
User: jasmag
Member since: 09-05-2004 Total posts: 2 |
From: SewSewSandi
Date: 09-07-2004, 04:57 PM (18 of 32)
| I must confess that I have not made any changes in my tension. I suggest that you try a sample hem on a scrap of the knit. That'll allow you to determine whether any adjustments are needed on your machine's tension. |
User: SewSewSandi
Member since: 06-24-2003 Total posts: 8 |
From: emermuffin
Date: 09-07-2004, 08:23 PM (19 of 32)
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Wow - lots of great tips! I hadn't thought of using Wonder Tape or Steam a Seam before finishing a hem on knits - that's one I'll have to use next time. I always have trouble threading a twin needle - I need more practice there. But if your thread matches, you can carefully space the second row of stitches on your hem using a tiny zig zag. That's what I've used and looks just fine. Blackie, definitely DO NOT stretch your knits as you sew. I had the same problem when I began working in knits - my collars were always too large and would stand up away from my neck instead of lying flat! (Of course, I fixed that by making two knit tubes in matching fabric and sewing them in a X in the neck - very cute crossed neckline and took care of the gapping problem!) Sewing with knits just takes practice - you'll get it! My favorites are interlock knits since the edges don't curl up. But mark the wrong sides with a piece of tape so you don't make any mistakes piecing it together - it's well nigh impossible to take a seam out of a knit! Try lettuce edging, too if you are making something for Sophie. Stretch that knit as you sew a satin zig zag right over the edge - that looks so cute on little girl's clothes and it's so easy! Good luck!
emermuffin
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User: emermuffin
Member since: 03-29-2003 Total posts: 55 |
From: avajo
Date: 09-07-2004, 08:49 PM (20 of 32)
| Hello- can someone tell me if the most stretch on a knit is supposed to be across a garment or up and down?Thanks. |
User: avajo
Member since: 09-01-2004 Total posts: 10 |
From: emermuffin
Date: 09-08-2004, 09:06 AM (21 of 32)
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Avajo, your knit should stretch across since that's where you need it to stretch while wearing it.
emermuffin
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User: emermuffin
Member since: 03-29-2003 Total posts: 55 |
From: avajo
Date: 09-08-2004, 12:38 PM (22 of 32)
| Thank you-thats what I thought and thats how I cut some shorts for my little boy , but even though they are full in the knees after he played and sat in them awhile they were slightly ruffled looking around the edges. I hemmed them by hand and was very careful not to strecth when I hemmed by hand.It wasn't bad though and maybe I was just looking to closely and no one else would notice? Thank you for letting me know that I did do it right so that I wont be afraid to make more! |
User: avajo
Member since: 09-01-2004 Total posts: 10 |
From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 09-08-2004, 06:44 PM (23 of 32)
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Avajo, It also makes a difference whether it is a single knit or double knit fabric..Single knit is a lot more stretchy than double knit.. Usually thinner also.. Double knit is also called interlock more commonly..I try to use that for children's garments, mostly.. Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022
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From: Yakityak
Date: 09-08-2004, 09:35 PM (24 of 32)
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Eh... I am probably a day late and a dollar short, and I'm about to sound really old fashioned, too... but what the hey! When it comes to knits, it never hurts to try starch. Yes. You read that right. Starch. I got that tip on another board I'm on... and let me tell you... good old fashioned starch can tame the most ornery of knits. You can buy the laundry variety, or just use food grade cornstarch, but either way, use it concentrated and let the fabric hang out to dry. (The dryer softens it up considerably, and that's counter to what needs to be done!) The starch should make the fabric stiff as a board, and much easier to handle. This is a particularly good tip for sewing slinky knits and swimsuit material. Yak I spy something that starts with 'S'... Swap!
Want to make an I-Spy quilt? Come swap with us at: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ISpyQuilts/ |
User: Yakityak
Member since: 09-08-2004 Total posts: 10 |
From: stitchmd
Date: 09-09-2004, 02:32 PM (25 of 32)
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Starch sounds good, especially since corn starch is something a lot of people have in the kitchen. I've had the same box for years! Does it get powdery as you stitch through it? Any residue on the needle or in the machine? |
User: stitchmd
Member since: 02-25-2003 Total posts: 226 |
From: Yakityak
Date: 09-09-2004, 09:33 PM (26 of 32)
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I haven't noticed it getting powdery - my guess is that you'd have to use a lot of starch for that to happen. Likewise, I haven't noticed my needle gumming up or anything, but since I buy needles in bulk I'm kind of wanton when it comes to replacing needles. One thing I was warned about... if you're using food grade cornstarch you may not want to leave starched fabrics around too long because they might attract bugs. That said, I haven't noticed that either. Yak I spy something that starts with 'S'... Swap!
Want to make an I-Spy quilt? Come swap with us at: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ISpyQuilts/ |
User: Yakityak
Member since: 09-08-2004 Total posts: 10 |
From: speech60
Date: 09-14-2004, 04:00 AM (27 of 32)
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You probably have solved your problem. I'm a bit late reading. You can also use clear elastic. It seems to stabilize the knit. Zigzag knit to elastic, then hem with your choice stitch. Or use the double needles and stitch through the elastic. Freda |
User: speech60
Member since: 08-09-2004 Total posts: 3 |
From: mommgsews
Date: 09-14-2004, 09:36 PM (28 of 32)
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I like to use the twin needles as many of the others. I've also used a blind hem stitch with pretty good results. I pressed the hem area very flat - using starch if necessary. Then fold it as you would to make a blind hem and press again. Then stitch using a mid to long stitch length. This leaves a pretty nice nearly invisible hem. |
User: mommgsews
Member since: 03-15-2004 Total posts: 73 
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From: bunzino
Date: 09-15-2004, 05:38 PM (29 of 32)
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I usually zig-zag, and have learned that you don't want to crowd a lot of thread in -- that works the same as stretching the fabric. so, don't make your stitch too dense. nancy |
User: bunzino
Member since: 08-16-2002 Total posts: 119 |
From: Debzy
Date: 09-29-2004, 09:06 AM (30 of 32)
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blackie - what machine are you sewing on? can you alter the presser foot pressure? there may be a dial on the top of the machine, or near to the needle - on some machines, you can adjust how much pressure the presser foot is pressing down on the fabric - you need to lower it for stretchies
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User: Debzy
Member since: 06-02-2003 Total posts: 71 |
From: blackie
Date: 09-29-2004, 08:27 PM (31 of 32)
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It's a Kenmore - And there are about 4 presser foot pressure settings. I have adjusted them before... but I need to doublecheck I am using the right one.
see the mundane life of a housewife.
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User: blackie
Member since: 03-31-2004 Total posts: 594 |
From: bunzino
Date: 09-30-2004, 03:22 PM (32 of 32)
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Blackie, I have a Kenmore, too, and use a double-needle (ballpoint) to hem knits. I didn't find it to be very difficult at all. And I didn't even know about steam-a-seam. I'll try that next time. The Kenmore doesn't seem to be very fussy about threading for a double needle. I don't have any instructions and am sure I do it different every time, but it seems to be OK. Let us know how it goes for you. nancy |
User: bunzino
Member since: 08-16-2002 Total posts: 119 |
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