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This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was retired in August 2007. It is being provided by “Sew What’s Up,” which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: Mischka
Date: 09-01-2004, 09:39 PM (1 of 7)
I'm SO glad to have found this board!!!

After months of mending/repairs and simple alterations, I'm finally trying to sew a whole garment. The pattern is Simplicity 0699, view D (without the buttons). It's one of those schoolgirl style mini-skirts that are so popular, and I'm using a polyester plaid print. Problem is, when I line up the selvages, there is a lot of twisting near the fold. I've already tried stretching it to straighten, but that's reached its limit.

My question is, which is more important: having the selvages line up, or making sure the fold runs evenly down the plaid pattern? Right now, a plaid "column" starts on one side of the fold, and wraps around to finish on the other. If the fabric was plain I wouldn't worry so much, but given that it's plaid, I don't want my skirt to turn out crooked looking.

Many thanks in advance for your advice!
User: Mischka
Member since: 09-01-2004
Total posts: 63
From: Chrysantha
Date: 09-01-2004, 10:13 PM (2 of 7)
When it's plaid, it's better to match the plaid....
Chrys
User: Chrysantha
Member since: 09-06-2002
Total posts: 2414
From: paroper
Date: 09-01-2004, 11:53 PM (3 of 7)
Sometimes that happens when you slide the fabric down too far. You should match colors in your plaid red stripe on red stripe, yellow on yellow at the selvage. Since it is a plaid, just take the first straight line that goes all the way across your fabric and trim it even from one side of your fabric to the other. Then, starting at that end, with the selvages toward you so you can see. Put the selvages together the full length of your fabric, matching the stripes. Pin ever so often so that they don't shift on you. Beware: In the process of making the fabric, sometimes there is a bend in the pattern at the selvage, as you go, check about 3/4 of an inch inside the selvage to make sure that your lines stay straight. If your pattern is an even design (I never seem to be so lucky), you may want to move your center line over so that the pattern is exactly the same on both sides of your fold. An even design is one where the pattern can be reversed perfectly so that the same colors appear on the same sides whether you are looking at the top of the fabric or the bottom. Like words that can be spelled the same backwards and forwards. I know, this sound silly, but my hometown's name is Harrah. That means that it spells the same backwards and forwards. If each letter were a color, I would either put the fold between the "h's" or the "r's" so that the letters would repeat themselves evenly. The reason for that is that it would put the pattern in the middle. That's the easiest way I know to explain it without showing it to you in person. If it were 5 letters long, like Harah, I would put the fold smack dab in the middle of the "r". I agree though that if the fabric indeed is printed incorrectly, you need to follow the plaids first. However, most plaids are actually in the weave unless it is cotton where the print might be painted. If that is true, it should line up if there is a selvage.
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: DorothyL
Date: 09-02-2004, 08:13 AM (4 of 7)
Ok, I admit I don't do a lot of plaid but aren't you more likely to get it to match up if you cut it down the middle length wise and turn it so both layers you are cutting match?
Dorothy
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002
Total posts: 3883
From: MaryW
Date: 09-02-2004, 09:34 AM (5 of 7)
Hi Mischka and welcome to Sew Whats New. :bluesmile

http://www.sew-whats-new.com/culshaw/plaids.shtml
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005
Total posts: 2542
From: paroper
Date: 09-02-2004, 09:46 AM (6 of 7)
Dorothy is it is an uneven plaid you are probably right. I've never tried that, if it is uneven I usualy end up cutting my fabrics one piece at a time. I hate plaids. I usually start with the largest piece or the most visible piece and go from there. If it is an even plaid though, I just keep the plaids matched at the center line...to me those are more like cutting stripes. Thanks for the idea!
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: DorothyL
Date: 09-02-2004, 11:25 AM (7 of 7)
Pam
Just keep the fabric straight when you cut that way. And I find marking each end corner with an arrow pointing up helps. That way you don't have to think about it (thinking is always an issue for me).
I really don't like cutting one layer at a time if I can help it, somehow the fabric seems to move around more that way so I use that other method. But then I'm not much of a plaid person.
Dorothy
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002
Total posts: 3883
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