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This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was retired in August 2007. It is being provided by “Sew What’s Up,” which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: rivas1957
Date: 09-08-2004, 01:17 AM (1 of 3)
I haven't sewn in a long time and I need a refresher course on laying patterns out on the material. I have forgotten most of it on the selvage,grain, cross grain and that kind of things. I know this has to sound really stupid. If anyone can help me. I really would appreciate it.

Thanks,
rivas1957 :bluesmile
User: rivas1957
Member since: 09-08-2004
Total posts: 6
From: paroper
Date: 09-08-2004, 08:28 AM (2 of 3)
Use your pattern guide as a map to lay your pattern. The selvage is the finished edge that runs the length of your material. On some fabrics it may shrink or draw when washed and should not be used in your cotton garment without clipping. The grain has to do with way your fabric is woven. The long grains run lengthwise even with the selvages, the shorter grains run across. Cross grain is 45 degrees from the edge and is stretchy. The horizonal and vertical grains are stable unless the fabric is knit. If the fabric is knit, the stretch is generally across the fabric running between the selvages unless the fabric is a two-way knit then the stretch runs both directions. At any rate, the cross grain still has more stretch. When you lay your fabric, even out the selvages so that they lay directly on top of each other. If you are laying across the grain, you will still need to square your fabric. To lay your pattern straight on the grain, you pin at one end of the straight of grain arrow and measure to the selvage or fold. Then, measure up from your grain or fold, move your pattern piece until it is even at the same measurment as the first and pin at that end of the arrow. When you pin, pin at right angles to the edge, with the points of the pins toward the edge of the pattern piece. This insures the flattest lay of your pattern piece, and the most accurate cutting position which in turn will give the best fit and "hang" of your garment possible.
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: dmoses
Date: 09-08-2004, 09:49 AM (3 of 3)
Here are some articles that may help refresh your memory:

http://ianrpubs.unl.edu/Textiles/g1028.htm

http://www.taunton.com/threads/pdf/Grainline.pdf

www.sewnews.com/library/sewnews/qa/aaqa1000a.htm
:bluesmile
Take care,
Donna
User: dmoses
Member since: 02-22-2002
Total posts: 964
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