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This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was retired in August 2007. It is being provided by “Sew What’s Up,” which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: cychen
Date: 09-10-2004, 12:42 PM (1 of 7)
I am trying to make my first summer dress (Simplicity 7205) using a medium-weight cotton fabric. Although I am a beginner, I think I have mastered the dart sewing technique -- line up the lines, baste, sew toward the point, don't back stitch at the point, and sew the last stitch right on the point. At least that's what I thought when I successfully sew my first skirt last month.

After careful measuring, altering, sewing, and ironing, I was horrified by the way that my bust darts turned out. They look like one of Madonna's 80s/90s outrageously pointy bustiers. I am hoping that there's some way of salvaging the dress, or at least learn sewing or pattern altering techniques that would prevent this from happening again in my future sewing projects.

This is a strapless dress with an empire waist; there are darts both above and below the high waist line. The finished dress is supposed to have two vertical lines running from chest area to hip joint.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Christine
User: cychen
Member since: 09-10-2004
Total posts: 15
From: paroper
Date: 09-10-2004, 03:18 PM (2 of 7)
Usually that means the dart is too short for the width. It is unusual for a pattern company to do that, but I guess sometimes they do. Are you sure that you used the right marking for your size at the outside of your dart?
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: mommydionne
Date: 09-10-2004, 05:08 PM (3 of 7)
Sometimes it helps to stop one or two stitches before the point ends to get less of an arrowhead effect (but I loved your description :bluesmile )
Jeanette
User: mommydionne
Member since: 01-08-2004
Total posts: 838
From: Mischka
Date: 09-10-2004, 06:57 PM (4 of 7)
I wish I had an answer for you, because I have the same problem! I'm trying to make over an empire waisted velvet dress I bought on ebay, and its bust darts did that too...not anymore though, since I ripped em out and haven't fixed them yet... :re:
User: Mischka
Member since: 09-01-2004
Total posts: 63
From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 09-10-2004, 07:32 PM (5 of 7)
If you cannot figure out what is wrong with the dart, there is another solution since you described it as an Empire wailted pattern.. Just Gather the dart portion that is on the bust part of the pattern.. (the part above the waistline seam) That will work, as long as you stay in the same area the dart covered and don't spread it out any furthur.. I had a pattern years ago and it gave you both options.. I made both ways and liked them both..
Sew With Love
Libby
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002
Total posts: 2022
From: cychen
Date: 09-11-2004, 11:05 AM (6 of 7)
Thanks for the suggestions! I did go back to the pattern and noted that I had marked the right dart lines. But, like Paroper surmised, the darts do seem a bit wide for the length. I am going to try take out a couple of stitches at the dart point first and then try the gathered approach second if the first doesn't work.

These pointy darts are a bit of a mystery to me, because I had made the lining for the dress first (for fitting) using the exact fabric pattern and I didn't get the pointy look. I am now wondering if the crispness of the cotton fabric (after prewashing) had anything to do with the pointy look...

Thanks again for your advice!

Christine
User: cychen
Member since: 09-10-2004
Total posts: 15
From: pucktricks
Date: 09-12-2004, 12:01 AM (7 of 7)
I'm not an expert on darts, but I have had the same problem with darts using a crisper fabric, and then sewing the exact same dart using the same technique on a less crispy fabric did not have that problem. So, it could well be that.

Ticia
User: pucktricks
Member since: 03-31-2004
Total posts: 570
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