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This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was retired in August 2007. It is being provided by “Sew What’s Up,” which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: mattswife
Date: 09-23-2004, 07:23 PM (1 of 3)
I was wondering if anyone could help me. I have been sewing for quite a few years, but over the last several only for my daughters. I am wanting to sew garments for myself, since I can't find what I want in stores, but I keep looking at the measurements on the pattern envelopes and they don't match up. I wear a size 10 in ready-to-wear bottoms, but I measure out at a 20 in home-crafted items. Is this the size I should make? I just don't want to get started on something with fabric that I love, and it be a total disaster. Also, my hips measure at a 16 on the pattern. I am rather thick-waisted (a family trait from both sides--thanks parents!!), but I didn't think I was that large. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated.
With 4 kids, 7 cats, 2 chickens, 10 dogs, and 4 guinea pigs, I just need a coffee IV.
User: mattswife
Member since: 09-21-2004
Total posts: 1
From: playdoll
Date: 09-23-2004, 09:13 PM (2 of 3)
Hi,
It is true that the "big 4" pattern company's sizes are not true to RTW sizing. The only way to find out the true sizing of the patterns is to lay them out flat and measure (minus seam allowances) the size the pattern says will fit you. Chances are you'll go down a size or two, it seems they build in a lot of "ease" most of which isn't flattering to our bodies. The patterns usually state whether the garment will be 'very loose' to 'very fitting' and will give the finished bust and hip measurements.

Take a pair of your best fitting pants or a blouse that is flattering to you, measure the garments - at their widest points - bustline for tops, hipline for pants. Compare these measurements with the measurements from the flat patterns. This will give you an idea of which size/sizes to cut from your fabric. The multi-size patterns are nice because you can tailor the pattern to fit your body. You may have a thick waist and narrow hips for instance. Unfortunately, I have a protruding tummy (pregnancies), the measurement around my tummy is bigger than my hips or waist and so I have to make corrections for this on all my pant, skirt and some dress patterns.

Another thing to do is make a "fitting muslin" of a new pattern. You can see if the pattern will need adjustments before you cut your fashion fabric. Make your adjustments to the muslin and then transfer the corrections to your pattern.

Sewing can be challenging but to me that's half the fun! :wink:
Ann in NC -- Make everyday CREATIVE!
User: playdoll
Member since: 09-23-2004
Total posts: 2
From: Esbea
Date: 09-24-2004, 09:02 PM (3 of 3)
I agree with Ann. I work in a fabric store and we get that about the sizing all the time. I wear such and such size... made this pattern and it is huge or too small etc. The pattern "size" is just a number to distinguish one size from another. If you don't like the idea of a size "20" or whatever, change the number to whatever you like. Call one size A6, the next B5, then C4 etc. You get the idea. First you need to find out how you like to wear your clothes. Fitted, semi-fitted, loose, etc. On the back of the pattern when it says very loose blouse... it can have 8+ inches of ease added. A fitted blouse would be less than 4 inches. If you aren't used to wearing an oversize shirt...it will feel huge. Of the big 4... Butterick will be most sympathic to your shape as they usually have smaller fitting arms and pant legs. Vogues have both the most fitted and the most loose fitting too. McCalls tend to be for tall/thinner people and for my shape which is round all over I prefer Simplicity. A note here.. all regular size patterns are made for a "B" cup bust. Then your fabric choice will change the fit of the pattern. For example, I made a simple tank top in a knit that was very stretchy. I usually make a size larger in a tank as I don't want it to pull tight over my tummy.... but in the stretchy knit...it felt way too big. Ann's suggestion to measure your favorite pants or top and then compare them to the pattern is a great idea... I do it all the time. Hope this helps, Sue
User: Esbea
Member since: 09-29-2002
Total posts: 8
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