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The Sew What’s New Archive
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From: Material Girl
Date: 10-04-2004, 10:47 AM (1 of 12)
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Hi Im new here. I would like advice on boning a dress. Its a classic strapless dress with a flared skirt/fishtail at the back. Im going to bone the lining as the outer material is stretchy and heavy.The pettern is very shaped,not a flat front as some bodices can be. Where is the best place to but the boning,can it go horizontal in smallk sections as well as vertical?How many strips should I put in the back? Thanks |
User: Material Girl
Member since: 10-04-2004 Total posts: 35 |
From: MaryW
Date: 10-04-2004, 10:57 AM (2 of 12)
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Hi Material Girl, welcome to Sew Whats New. First of all, does the dress call for boning? Usually it goes in the seam allowances in a bodice under the bust. I have never seen boning go horizontal, but that doesn't mean it shouldn't. As far as the fishtail, I'm really not sure of that. What does the pattern call for? MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
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From: Material Girl
Date: 10-04-2004, 11:31 AM (3 of 12)
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I was just thinking of boning the bust and just under so the dress can comfortably hang from it. The material is a fine knitted silky fabric, if I use alot onthe skirt part it may way it down so I think the boning would help. I was thinking of putting 4 vertical in the back(2 each side) maybe 2 vertical on the front sides then for the middle panel put 2 horizontal above the bust and maybe 3 sorter pieces vertical below the bust,echoeing the shape of the pattern but making it sturdy. I think if I put vertical pieces on the front panel it would lose it shape going over the bust. |
User: Material Girl
Member since: 10-04-2004 Total posts: 35 |
From: MaryW
Date: 10-04-2004, 11:37 AM (4 of 12)
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Wouldn't all that boning in the bodice make it very uncomfortable to wear.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542
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From: Material Girl
Date: 10-04-2004, 11:48 AM (5 of 12)
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I dont know.Its a size 10 which I wouldnt fit into so I cant try it out. What do you suggest? |
User: Material Girl
Member since: 10-04-2004 Total posts: 35 |
From: GreenDragonLady
Date: 10-04-2004, 11:55 AM (6 of 12)
I just finished a renaissance bodice that had 10 pieces of vertical boning in it. I used a canvas interlining and sewed my boning casing to that. This way, not only is the bodice more sturdy (which I definitely need  ), but you can't see any boning stitching from the outside or inside.With your dress you probably wouldn't want to use canvas, but you could use a muslin interlining or something and do the same thing. That way, you could also check the fit of your boned muslin by itself, and if you needed to change anything, you wouldn't be mucking with the bodice itself. And my bodice was very comfortable to wear. If you do it right, you don't have boning poking anywhere, and I didn't lace it horribly tight either. Good luck! Jessica photos.yahoo.com/greendragondesigns
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User: GreenDragonLady
Member since: 07-29-2004 Total posts: 495 
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From: MaryW
Date: 10-04-2004, 11:56 AM (7 of 12)
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Is this for someone in particular? If so, baste the boning in and have her try it on. She can tell you how it feels.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542
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From: paroper
Date: 10-04-2004, 12:08 PM (8 of 12)
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A lot of people do not like boning because it is a bit uncomfortable. Most of the things that I have boned have been things that were very tightly fitted. Quite often it is used in princess style clothing and goes over the bust on both sides of the front, down both sides of the back in line with the center of the shoulder blades and sometimes in the side seams. It is stiff (made of plastic or metal) and if it is not properly installed, can poke the wearer. My favorite boning is enclosed in fabric and has seams on each side. It is bought from a spool by the yard. I think that it is easier to install in the garment. Boning is used to give shape and stability to the garment, it is also used to keep the garment from riding up as in Merry Widow or corsets. I've only seen it used vertically in the garment. I'm not sure that this is the effect that you are wanting. If your lining is stable and you make a tightly fitted top (with little or no ease) I think that you won't have to worry about your dress hanging properly. I think that part of the effect you might be trying to create is a more fitted flowing garment, especially with the fishtail. Boning creates a very stiff garment. If your pattern does call for boning, I would think that it would be vertical in the bust. A pattern that I made recently for my daughter had a corset top with boning (that was in the underling) but she has no bust to speak of so it seemed that no matter what I did, the very top of the garment did not want to hug her body (where the top arched over the bust). In order to get the garment to hug her, I gave it zero ease and then I added a bit of elastic in underling just to make sure that it stayed tight against her. It worked out well.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Material Girl
Date: 10-05-2004, 04:03 AM (9 of 12)
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Ive got anti-static polyester lining which Im going to sew bias binding onto to slide the boning in then sew them in.Nothing should poke out. I think il do some more research on the net.Thanks for your comments ladies. |
User: Material Girl
Member since: 10-04-2004 Total posts: 35 |
From: MaryW
Date: 10-05-2004, 10:24 AM (10 of 12)
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Be sure to smooth over the ends with a nail file. The sharp edges will poke thru the lining. Another method is to cover over the ends with satin ribbon to keep it a bit more comfy for the wearer.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542
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From: mommydionne
Date: 10-05-2004, 05:26 PM (11 of 12)
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Threads issue 111 has an article entitled 46 tips for sewing special occasion garments, ones that might be useful to you are using elastic on the top of the bodice to keep things secure (as paroper suggested), a waist stay, and using underlining as well as lining. I like boning and if you fit it well you can use quite a bit and have a comfortable garment. have fun Jeanette
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User: mommydionne
Member since: 01-08-2004 Total posts: 838 
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From: celticswynd
Date: 08-18-2006, 01:19 AM (12 of 12)
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Hi Im new here. I would like advice on boning a dress. Its a classic strapless dress with a flared skirt/fishtail at the back. Im going to bone the lining as the outer material is stretchy and heavy.The pettern is very shaped,not a flat front as some bodices can be. Where is the best place to but the boning,can it go horizontal in smallk sections as well as vertical?How many strips should I put in the back? Thanks OMG!! I forgot I was MEMBEr here! meh, stupid me Theres multaple kinds of boning out there. But it's easy to tell what's for what. Boning for fasion, and just to hold a strapless gown up is plastic boning. It's thin, and flexible. Great stuff for something simple as this. Corsets like you may have seen in Titanic use a special steel boning that flex (spring boning) but can also form one's body. If its a bodice what I"m picturing it as, where there is two seems in the bust that goes downward. Place boning in the seems. |
User: celticswynd
Member since: 09-20-2005 Total posts: 3 |
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