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From: DonnaInCA
Date: 10-18-2004, 06:15 PM (1 of 16)
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Has anyone tried this tool??? http://sewquiksleeve.com/ How do you all do set in sleeves? Would appreciate some tips. Thanks ... Donna in CA |
User: DonnaInCA
Member since: 01-17-2001 Total posts: 29 |
From: busylizzycat
Date: 10-18-2004, 06:45 PM (2 of 16)
| Donna -I'm probably the wrong person to be replying as I've always preferred set-in sleeves and have therefore done a lot of them. Sometimes I do have a bit of fiddling to do but I realized lately that it's one of those things I've just developed a feel for -all in the way you hold your mouth. Recently I decided to do it "right" and follow step-by-step the instructions in one of the experts books. I was not pleased with the result, ripped it out and did it my own way. According to this particular expert, my way is upside down and asking for trouble , but it works for me. I'm always somewhat sceptical of miracle gizmos, maybe this one would work great, maybe a waste of $. Who knows - I'd be interested to hear from someone who has tried it. Do you have a good sewing store near you where someone could actually show you hands-on how to do a set-in sleeve and be ready to help while you do one? I have several sewing books describing how to do them - each with their own little tips & suggestions. I think if I were having a problem with a technique - I'd try them all out til I found the one I was most comfortable with. If I can help you with sources or some of their directions - let me know off-list - could be a lot of info. <email address removed for privacy> |
User: busylizzycat
Member since: 03-13-2004 Total posts: 7 |
From: GreenDragonLady
Date: 10-18-2004, 08:39 PM (3 of 16)
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My mom taught me how to do them. Before you sew the underarm seam in the sleeve, and before you sew the side seam, sew the sleeve to the garment between the notches only, while it's flat. Then you sew the underarm seam and the side seam, then you only need to "set in" the part that's directly in the armpit area, which usually doesn't need any easing. I also saw on a sewing show that they cut a 1" wide piece of slightly stretchy interfacing (I think it was tie interfacing) that was the length of the garment part of the seam, and they stretched it to fit the sleeve part of the seam and stitched it on the sleeve while stretched. Then when it relaxed to the correct size, it has eased itself. Then the little bit of interfacing acted as a sleeve header too. I guess it's easier to do than to describe it! Good luck  Jessica photos.yahoo.com/greendragondesigns
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User: GreenDragonLady
Member since: 07-29-2004 Total posts: 495 
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From: DonnaInCA
Date: 10-18-2004, 08:51 PM (4 of 16)
| That's the way I was taught to do it also, however I still get "puckers". I'm not quite understanding the interfacing concept, but would like to know more about it. |
User: DonnaInCA
Member since: 01-17-2001 Total posts: 29 |
From: busylizzycat
Date: 10-18-2004, 09:35 PM (5 of 16)
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Donna - have you checked out Julie's instructions? Right here on this web-site?<http://www.sew-whats-new.com/culshaw/settingsleeves.shtml> Liz H. |
User: busylizzycat
Member since: 03-13-2004 Total posts: 7 |
From: DonnaInCA
Date: 10-18-2004, 09:43 PM (6 of 16)
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Liz thanks for pointing this out. I will check out her instructions on the site. .. Donna |
User: DonnaInCA
Member since: 01-17-2001 Total posts: 29 |
From: busylizzycat
Date: 10-18-2004, 09:57 PM (7 of 16)
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This is something I learned on another sewing discussion group that I've used a lot to find relevant information, instructions, etc. I just did it to find lots of instructions for setting in sleeves. Go to Google. Click on Advanced Search. Type in a question or phrase . I just did this and typed in "Sewing set-in sleeve". I did this awhile ago using "Sewing invisible zipper" I got some instructions to print off (& keep) that were much easier to follow than the teeny-weeny ones that came with the invisible zipper foot. Liz H. |
User: busylizzycat
Member since: 03-13-2004 Total posts: 7 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 10-18-2004, 11:41 PM (8 of 16)
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Jessica-- I've never had a real problem setting in sleeves but your method is always easier. But when I've had a pattern that calls for setting them in I always did -- except once. And that time they didn't turn out very well. So my question is -- when you have a pattern that calls for set in sleeves can you just convert to the other method? It seems to me the set in sleeves are cut a little deeper. Do you regularly just use the sew up the side and down the sleeve technique on all patterns? Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: mommgsews
Date: 10-19-2004, 03:15 PM (9 of 16)
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My experience with set-in sleeves seems to hinge on the pressing. After stitching the stay line/ease stitching press the top of the sleeve cap (using a pressing ham) into the shape desired. This usually forms the sleeve head an the sleeve just seems to fall into place naturally. For me setting a sleeve really is what my former home ec teacher always said..."it's all about the pressing!" Hope this helps. |
User: mommgsews
Member since: 03-15-2004 Total posts: 73 
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From: GreenDragonLady
Date: 10-19-2004, 03:41 PM (10 of 16)
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Dorothy, the way I do it, it's still really "set in". I don't sew the underarm and side seams in one continuous seam. I only do that on things like pajama tops and more casual things. I also usually do the two rows of gathering stitches first before I stitch the sleeve to the garment between the notches while it's flat. Sometimes I'll baste it by hand just so there aren't any pins in my way. Sometimes I swear! But once I've stitched the underarm seam and the side seam separately, I can set in the rest and it's fine. I haven't tried the method using the strip of interfacing, I only saw it on "Sew Much More." I'd like to try it though. The article on this site describes it much better than I did. Jessica photos.yahoo.com/greendragondesigns
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User: GreenDragonLady
Member since: 07-29-2004 Total posts: 495
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From: sirees
Date: 10-19-2004, 04:08 PM (11 of 16)
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I am not sure if this is any help.I usually make a tiny notch in the middle of the cap (i just fold the sleeve in half to find the middle)and pin it to the shoulder seam and then put in another pin at the underarm so that the seams match..and the stitching i do it in two parts with a few stitches overlapping starting at the shoulder seam.This seems to wokr for me. good luck sirees |
User: sirees
Member since: 09-08-2004 Total posts: 7 |
From: DonnaInCA
Date: 10-19-2004, 04:52 PM (12 of 16)
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I'm getting some great tips from you guys. Thanks a lot! Donna |
User: DonnaInCA
Member since: 01-17-2001 Total posts: 29 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 10-19-2004, 05:33 PM (13 of 16)
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Jessica -- I'll keep the instructions you wrote. After I went back and read them I see what you mean. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: mommydionne
Date: 10-19-2004, 06:31 PM (14 of 16)
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I took a class from Peggy Sayer (silohette patterns) once and she uses tie interfacing cut on the bias for her sleeve caps, she also presses the cap into place over her tailor board to "shrink" is to size before setting it in. I often decrease my sleeve cap height (a la sandra betzina) about 1/4 " bdfore trying to set it in, also 3/8 seam allowances work better, remember you are easing your seam line not your cut edge which has more length. Jeanette
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User: mommydionne
Member since: 01-08-2004 Total posts: 838 
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From: weB2cats
Date: 10-19-2004, 07:18 PM (15 of 16)
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The best method I've found for set in sleeves is this: after running two rows of basting thread from notch to notch, you are ready for the divison part. fold the sleeve in half, place pin at top and bottom of crease (the bottom will be the armhole, underarm seam). Then divide again by putting the 2 pinned areas together, and pinning again on each side. You should now have 4 pins evenly placed around the sleeve cap top. Now, simply adjust gathers between the notches and everything should fall neatly into place. This method helps to evenly space the sleeve into the armscye. |
User: weB2cats
Member since: 11-07-2002 Total posts: 232 |
From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 10-20-2004, 05:53 PM (16 of 16)
I do Sandra's trick of stitching with your finger behind the presser foot, then pressing on a ham to shrink out the extra.. Then I stitch between the notches first and get that out of the way since it is so simple to do right. Then I fit the sleeve cap to the rest of the armhole and pin in place.. I have the armhole facing away from me and I have the sleeve underneath so I can tuck it into place with my fingers cupped to shape the cap as I go. (its hard to explain in words) I pin on the garment side and stitch on the garment side and I almost never get a tuck or caught in the wrong place with the needle type accident.. This is the method my Witchy Home Ec teacher made us perfect back in the dark ages when I was in Jr High school in the late 40's..The Sandra's trick is the only new addition and since i started that, I never do the basting threads any more , unless its a big puffy sleeve on DGD's Dresses.. 
Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022 
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