Sew What’s Up Presents
The Sew What’s New Archive
This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and
quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was
retired in August 2007. It is being provided by
“Sew What’s Up,”
which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: cychen
Date: 10-27-2004, 10:23 AM (1 of 14)
|
I have sewn two long-sleeved clothing in the last month -- one suit jacket and one long-sleeves dress. I was able to get no pucker shoulder/sleeve seams, but my sleeves show a very slight twist along the length of my arm when my arms hang straight next to my body. (diagonal line from sleeve joint toward my body) My arms aren't shaped funny, I don't think. Since I taught myself how to sew from reading books, I am wondering if I am not setting my sleeves properly. For both of the Very Easy Vogue patterns, I have four matching points -- one on the tip of the bell of the sleeves pattern where the shoulder meets the arm, two notches on each side of the sleeves, and the sleeve vertical seam. I matched all four points on the sleeve to the four points on the bodice piece. Assuming that everything is cut straight on grain, that I do have the right sleeve sewn to the right side of the body, and that everywhere else fits me fine, what could be the cause of the slight twist? Thanks in advance for your suggestions, Christine |
User: cychen
Member since: 09-10-2004 Total posts: 15 |
From: plrlegal
Date: 10-27-2004, 12:37 PM (2 of 14)
|
I've had that problem Christine and finally discovered that I had sewn the right sleeve into the left armhole and the left sleeve into the right armhole. This will reverse the sleeves so that the front of the finished sleeve is actually the back and cause a slight twisting. Patsy Patsy
|
User: plrlegal
Member since: 05-19-2001 Total posts: 318 |
From: Magot
Date: 10-27-2004, 12:44 PM (3 of 14)
|
..but if you match the small and big notches properly you don't mix the sleeves up.
love and kisses, Jan
Guts-R-Us Cells a Speciality DNA to order. |
User: Magot
Member since: 12-22-2002 Total posts: 3626 
|
From: paroper
Date: 10-27-2004, 01:28 PM (4 of 14)
|
The notch thing is true, but it is easy to get those backwards if the notches are not clearly cut as large and small. the very first thing that came to my mind (too) was that you had the wrong sleeves in the wrong holes. The other thing that could be wrong...if the sleeves are fitted, there should be either a dart or a slight ease at the elbow to allow for the elbow to bend. It might have something to do with that not being done properly.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: oklahomanana
Date: 10-27-2004, 01:52 PM (5 of 14)
|
I go with the others. I believe you may have the sleeves crossed. Check it out and let us know. Have a wonderful day.
One of the best gifts to give a child/grandchild is your listening ear.
|
User: oklahomanana
Member since: 09-07-2004 Total posts: 406 
|
From: cychen
Date: 10-27-2004, 02:39 PM (6 of 14)
|
Goodness gracious, could I really be sewing the sleeves onto the wrong sides? So I'll attempt to describe my process and you can tell me if I AM doing it wrong. I flip the bodice shell inside out slip the sleeves (which is right side out) inside the armhole. i.e. The right sides of the fabric are next to each other. At this point, I match the sleeve seam, shoulder seam, and the two different notches (e.g. single on one side and double on the other side -- I am very careful with cutting single and double triangles). (In the cutting stage, I did fold the fabric with the right sides against each other and cut two sleeves.) If there is a better (and more foolproof way) of setting the sleeves, can you briefly describe it? Many thanks, Christine |
User: cychen
Member since: 09-10-2004 Total posts: 15 |
From: paroper
Date: 10-27-2004, 02:45 PM (7 of 14)
|
It doesn't matter if your fabric is right side out or wrong side out when you cut it, if you cut it double your problem should not be there. If you matched the notches, double to the back and single to the front (as it is on most patterns), it should be fine. Did you measure and lay out according to the straight of grain?
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: sewingastherapy
Date: 10-31-2004, 01:56 PM (8 of 14)
|
I go with Pam's second thought. Your ease is at the bottom of the sleeve instead of the elbow. If the twist starts at the elbow I'd say that was a clue. I've made both mistakes, the sleeves on the wrong side of the garment usually pulls at the chest a little. my seam ripper and I have a love hate relationship. where's control-z on my sewing machine! 
sewing as therapy
|
User: sewingastherapy
Member since: 10-31-2004 Total posts: 5 |
From: cychen
Date: 11-03-2004, 12:25 PM (9 of 14)
|
Twist starts at shoulder; The diagonal "twist" is most prominent between shoulder and elbow when I have my arms hanging straight by my side. I am going to sew a pajama top next and will switch my usual right/leftsideness for sleeves to see if I am really right/left directionally challenged. Another question for the group: is there any reason that one would match the top, front and back bodice notches on the sleeves, but not the bottom of the sleeve seam to the bodice seam (i.e. not have a seamline that runs from my wrist up to my shoulder and down to the side of my body)? I examined a few of my ready to wear suit jackets and even blouses and found that only one had that vertical line mentioned above running along the sleeves and the bodice. Most don't have the sleeve seam and the bodice seam join at my armpit. I pulled/pinched the sleeves last night in the shoulder area to play around with the idea and saw that the twist would disappear if I were to move the orientation of the sleeves a little. Any thoughts? And yes, I will definitely get my right & left sideness figured out during my next project, but I can't help to wonder about the vertical line issue. (My sewing teacher took a look at my jacket; she notices the slight twist but is convinced that I didn't sew right/left sleeves on backward.) Christine |
User: cychen
Member since: 09-10-2004 Total posts: 15 |
From: paroper
Date: 11-03-2004, 12:45 PM (10 of 14)
|
There are seams, especially in tailored outfits where the bottom of the sleeve does not have a seam. Usually these sleeves are two-pieces and one of the seams runs directly over the elbow. In these patterns the pleat or gathers that allow the sleeve to bend at the elbow are incorporated into the seamline at the elbow.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Magot
Date: 11-04-2004, 03:40 AM (11 of 14)
|
In rennaisance costumes they do not have a sleeve seam running as one with the bodice seam - the sleeve seam either runs up the back of the arm,the front of the arm or in the case of severe slashing( so that the poofy out bits can be seen) the outside of the arm as it hangs by the body. This type of sleeve obviously requires a completely different sleeve head and they are mostly shaped like an "S" laying on it's side.
love and kisses, Jan
Guts-R-Us Cells a Speciality DNA to order. |
User: Magot
Member since: 12-22-2002 Total posts: 3626
|
From: dmoses
Date: 11-04-2004, 08:01 AM (12 of 14)
|
Could it be that the sleeves are off grain? Oops, just re-read some of the posts, and see that the question of grain was already mentioned. Sorry about that.  
Take care,
Donna |
User: dmoses
Member since: 02-22-2002 Total posts: 964 
|
From: cychen
Date: 11-08-2004, 09:09 AM (13 of 14)
|
Some updates on my twisting sleeves problem. I finally verified that I did not sew my left sleeve onto the right armhole. Pheww. A very discerning sewing enthusiast took a look at my garments (on me) and noticed that I have a "forward rolling shoulder" but without the back shoulder blade hump that is typically associated with the forwarding rolling/leaning shoulder. I think it's so interesting (and crazy) that I learn more quirky things about how my body is built now that I have becoming a sewing fanatic. This sewing maven suggested that on my already-sewn garment that I detach the sleeves and rotate the top matching point forward by 1/2 inch. This alleviated the twist noticeably though not completely. The problem is that the sleeves is now off grain. In my next garment, she suggested that I cut across the sleeves pattern horizontally just below the bell cap and shift the whole top piece toward the front side (to give my forward rolling shoulder more room) by 1/2 inch. My next question to the group is whether people have a favorite book that shows how shoulder/sleeves alteration should be made. My problem is that we came up with the 1/2 inch shift rule by trial and error on a Vogue pattern. I don't know how much I should shift for other patterns. The trial and method is not ideal because I can't always rotate the sleeves (after it's sewn) and hope that they would stay on-grain. I am basically interested in a book that would tell me how to flat measure and alter the patterns to accomodate for my shoulder/sleeves area. My only criteria is that the book has to offer tips useful to skinnier people like me as well. (i.e. not much padding or excess so I need tips on how to remove design ease to make garments fit better.) Any suggestions? Thanks! Christine p.s. I also learned my lesson about folding the sleeves pattern in half vertical wise to check if the pattern has allowed different widths for front and back side of the sleeves. My wrap dress sleeves pattern didn't (it's a symmetrical sleeve front and back), and that might explain why the wrap dress sleeves twisted more noticeably than my suit jackets sleeves did. It's as if I am seeing the effects of a bad pattern and my forward rolling shoulder. |
User: cychen
Member since: 09-10-2004 Total posts: 15 |
From: MartySews
Date: 11-11-2004, 11:53 AM (14 of 14)
|
My favorite fitting books are "Fit for Real People"; "Fitting Finesse" and "Fast Fit". You should be able to find these at your local library to see which one would be better suited for what you want to learn. Another good basic beginner book (also a staple in my sewing library) is "The Essential Guide to Sewing". I like the photos, the easy explanations and the wealth of information on fabric, needle sizes, notions, etc in the back of the book. Well worth the $20. Happy Stitching! Marty 
It takes one moment to change a life.
|
User: MartySews
Member since: 02-23-2003 Total posts: 504 
|
Visit Sew What’s Up for the latest sewing and quilting tips and discussions.
This page was originally located on Sew What’s New (www.sew-whats-new.com) at http://www.sew-whats-new.com/vb/archive/index.php/t-14041.html
Sew What’s Up is hosted by ZenSoft