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From: jewelcatz2005
Date: 10-29-2004, 08:09 PM (1 of 10)
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I am having a devil of a time altering a pattern I just bought. I am very full busted, bra size is 42DD, however my other measurements dictate that I use (new pattern sizes) 16-18. The pattern is a fairly fitted oriental style short tunic with a mandarin collar and the tunic has an angled opening going from the fcenter front neck edge (upper end of opening) down, across, and over the upper chest area and stops about 2 inches from the front notch of the armcye. The side bust dart is way too small to accommodate for my full bust, so I need to add more to the bust area by creating a larger side bust dart and adding a long fitted waist dart (I cannot recall what the name of these darts are, but they are basically the combination of a bodice waist dart and a skirt dart). I have tried to do this adjustment several times, using muslin as my test fabric, and I keep ending up with either a huge gap of material near the front of the armhole, which there is enough extra material to make another 2" dart that begins at the front armcye notch and ends about an inch above the bust point or I lose the style of close fitted waist in this tunic pattern. I know I am not doing something right, but I can't, for the life of me, figure out what that is. Can anyone help me with this? |
User: jewelcatz2005
Member since: 10-29-2004 Total posts: 5 |
From: plrlegal
Date: 10-29-2004, 10:45 PM (2 of 10)
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Jewelcatz I relate to the 42DD bust problem. See if you can get your hands on "Fit for Real People" by Patti Palmer and Marta Alto. They're the best for illustrating the kind of full bust alteration you're needing to do. Patsy Patsy
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User: plrlegal
Member since: 05-19-2001 Total posts: 318 |
From: jewelcatz2005
Date: 10-29-2004, 10:57 PM (3 of 10)
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Thanks for the book reference, but unfortunately I am on a rather slim budget right now and I really can't afford to buy a $25.00 book just so I can make this top. However, I will keep it in mind for the future. I was just hoping that someone might know off the top of their head, what it is that I am doing, or not doing. Thanks anyway though, Julie |
User: jewelcatz2005
Member since: 10-29-2004 Total posts: 5 |
From: sewphisticate
Date: 10-30-2004, 01:40 AM (4 of 10)
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Hello, Julie, Two comments: First, I make bride's maids dresses, and have to fit a variety of figures using one pattern. I have tried every alteration method I have found, and believe that Nancy Zieman's Fitting Finesse is the best! I understand your reluctance to purchase a book in order to make one top, but if you have fitting issues (and let's be honest, who out there doesn't?), then a $20, $25, or even $35 investment is well worth the headaches you will prevent. If you honestly don't have the money to invest right now, try the local library. There are a lot of great books available. And, not that I really recommend just browsing, but you can go to a book store, look through several fitting books and make some notes. There is nothing wrong with information gathering to ensure you are getting the best bang for your buck. Check your local fabric stores for sewing gurus. There is always someone who knows a trick or two, or someone who knows someone who knows a trick or two. Second: Based on what you wrote, I am guessing that your pattern is too big for your shoulder frame. It is hard to diagnose without actually seeing it. I have a couple of questions. Do you need to increase the circumference of your bust, as well as adjust for a larger cup size? You said that your other measurements dictated that you use a size 16-18. Which measurements are these? Does the blouse require shoulder pads? If so, then pin the shoulder pads in when you try on the muslin. Make sure you either trim off the arm hole seam allowance, or sew along the seam allowance, and clip the curves, pressing the seam allowance in. This way you can see just where the sleeve fits in and how the armhole actually fits. Unfortunately, the nature of your problem is not easy. There are several steps required to fit each part of your torso: your smaller shoulder frame, your large bust, your waist and then hip area. Basically, you need to use a smaller sized pattern, adjust the circumference for the bust, without increasing the shoulder width, enlarge the side bust dart and lengthen the front to accommodate your bust and modify the vertical darts to hug your waist. I have spent the last hour trying to write out how to do this and I find that my written explanation is confusing, at best, but here goes: Here's what I suggest. Work on your fitting issues one at a time, starting at the neck and working your way down. Try using a smaller sized pattern to fit your shoulder/arm hole area, then slash the pattern to add circumference to accommodate your larger bust. Don't worry about the close fit just yet. Once you have the top part of your bodice fitting correctly, over your shoulders, through your arm hole and hanging off the fullest part of your bust, then adjust the side dart depth to accommodate your full bust. The basic pattern is made to fit a B cup. You need to deepen the dart 1/2" for each additional cup size, which means you need to add 1 1/2" to the dart for your DD cup size. Trace around your altered pattern from the first step onto your muslin fabric. Keeping the pattern aligned with the armhole, shoulder and neck edge, mark the top leg of the dart and the bust point. Measure and mark 1 1/2" below the bottom of the pattern then slide the pattern down to this mark. Now mark the bottom leg of the side bust dart. Fold the lower dart leg to meet the top dart leg and draw the new cutting line for the dart. At this point, your muslin should fit over the shoulder and through the arm, across your bust, and follow the basic curve of your bust line. The final part is to mark the vertical darts, which completes the figure-hugging fit you desire. If the pattern does not already have darts marked, then have a friend help you pin out the fullness at your waist, making sure each dart is centered under its respective breast. This dart will be "s" shaped, in order to fit snuggly against your tummy. Don't forget, you can add shaping at the side seam as well, to really accentuate a small waist. I hope this helps. I know it is long, but I couldn't think of a shorter answer for you. Let me know if I can explain something in fuller detail for you. Good luck! Genevieve Genevieve
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User: sewphisticate
Member since: 10-29-2004 Total posts: 20 |
From: jewelcatz2005
Date: 10-30-2004, 05:11 PM (5 of 10)
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Genevieve, Thanks for all your time and effort to help me with this very frustrating problem. Believe it or not, I came up with an idea last night and although I haven't actually put the test garment together yet, I think it may work. This may sound hokey to many of you, but since I don't have anyone to help me fit the test garment, I decided to try something a little unorthodoxed. I borrowed a big roll of 2" blue painter's masking tape from my husband's tool box last night and went up stairs and stood in front of the vanity mirror in our upstairs guest bathroom. I took off my shirt and wearing only my bra, I proceeded to wrap the front of my torso in layers of this blue masking tape. (this blue tape is very easy to remove, which is why painters use this particular tape) Basically, I made a second skin out of this blue masking tape. Then, I used a black marker and drew the lines where the side seams should be, where the side darts should be, and the lines where the vertical body darts should be. Then, because I had overlapped the tape, about 2-3 layers, I was able to peel off the entire blue skin in one piece by lifting up the edges all the way around and when the tape was separated from my skin (and was just connected to my bra) I removed my bra, and voila . . . I had in my hands an identical shape of my torso. I then cut the tape shaped form on the lines that I drew, wich made automatic hinges at the bust point and proceeded to lay the taped form flat on the table. Since the underside of the form kept sticking to everything, I just lightly dusted the sticky side with flour. I layed a large piece of tissue paper on top of the flat blue form on the table and traced the edges, the darts, the shoulder seam, the armcye, etc., giving myself about an inch or so of ease in each directionand I think I may now have a pattern that will work for me. I know it sounds crazy, but I am anxious to see if this method worked. I will let everyone know as soon as I cut out my muslin test garment and baste it all together. Keep your fingers crossed. Julie |
User: jewelcatz2005
Member since: 10-29-2004 Total posts: 5 |
From: sewphisticate
Date: 10-30-2004, 05:54 PM (6 of 10)
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Julie, You are fabulous! The most recent article of Threads has a detailed article for making a skirt pattern using duct tape and a knit tube. Your use of painter's tape is innovative. You definitely have the attitude to be a great sewer! I am confident your experiment will not only work wonderfully for your current project, but that you will be able to use that tape pattern to make as many different tops as you can imagine. Great job! Genevieve Genevieve
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User: sewphisticate
Member since: 10-29-2004 Total posts: 20 |
From: jewelcatz2005
Date: 10-30-2004, 06:23 PM (7 of 10)
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Thanks Genevieve, but I wouldn't heap on the praise just yet. Let's see if my idea works first. If it does, then we can all benefit from this rather unusual method. So, as I said, keep your fingers crossed and let you know a.s.a.p. I am just getting ready to head into my sewing room to start the assembly of my test garment. I'll be back in approximately 1 hour or so to let you know. Julie PS - I had to give up my dressform a few years back due to a move across country, and who knows, maybe I could use this method to create a homemade dressform? |
User: jewelcatz2005
Member since: 10-29-2004 Total posts: 5 |
From: paroper
Date: 10-31-2004, 08:53 AM (8 of 10)
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Good Job. The method that I have used for years is to make a copy of the garment body out of inexpensive material to start. I just do the front and back pieces and extend it just past the hips since most pattern alterations will happen between the shoulders and hips. When I have a full bust alteration, I slash the fabric from one side to the other, going through the bust point of the pattern, marking the bust point of the new garment. Then I pivot the fabric over the bust. The easiest way for me to keep the opening stable is to pin fabric, tape or something "like" that over the opening so that I get the correct amount. Then I make any other alterations I need, pinning, slashing, marking, whatever. When I finish, I have a new pattern for a perfect custom fit garment. I take my model apart and trace it on paper (if I need to), most of the time it can just be used as a pattern itself. As for the full bust alteration, when I open the pattern up and flaten the pattern, I mark the dart from the starting points of the old dart to the center point of the new dart. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: jewelcatz2005
Date: 10-31-2004, 01:12 PM (9 of 10)
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Well, I have some great news to report! The painter's masking tape worked like a charm. I now have a very nice fitted bodice pattern. I had to make a few minor adjustments, such as shortening the length of the side dart and the full body dart about an inch and a small adjustment to the armcye, but other than that, it worked out great! Most importantly, this process took a much short length of time than any other the other methods I was using, plus the fact that this method worked and the others did not. I would recommend this method for everyone who #1 doesn't have someone to help them fit their muslin and #2 who has normal measurements with the exception of an extra large bust. Thanks for everyone's support and ideas. Perhaps when I finish my oriental tunic, I will post a picture here for everyone to see. (I'm not sure if pictures can be posted in messages on this board, but I have used other discussion boards that use this same program and pictures were allowed, so I will give it a try when I am done) Thanks again! Julie |
User: jewelcatz2005
Member since: 10-29-2004 Total posts: 5 |
From: sewphisticate
Date: 10-31-2004, 06:49 PM (10 of 10)
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That's great, Julie! I am so excited for you. I can't wait until I have another difficult fitting job, 'cause I am so not going to waste my time trying to re-draft a pattern, I'm just gonna grab some tape and go to town! I would love to see your pictures, if it's allowed. Genevieve Genevieve
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User: sewphisticate
Member since: 10-29-2004 Total posts: 20 |
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