Sew What’s Up Presents
The Sew What’s New Archive
This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and
quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was
retired in August 2007. It is being provided by
“Sew What’s Up,”
which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: cychen
Date: 11-10-2004, 11:27 AM (1 of 4)
|
I have a pants pattern alteration question. Can anyone offer tips on how to remove excess fabric under bum and give more room for muscular calves? For the bagginess problem, I have already 1) used Sandra Betzina's slash and overlap 3/4 under seat technique; 2) cut a smaller size pant leg; and 3) cut the crotch curve a little lower in the back pants pattern so that I'd have to stretch out back piece to match the front piece. I still have some noticeable excess fabric under my seat in my pair of silk wool pants. What else can I do? For the overextended calves problem, I tried the tip listed in "Easy Guide to Sewing Pants" -- remove 1/2 inch of length mid-thigh and add 1/2 inch of length in the calves area. I still have funny diagonal wrinkles from the outer side of my bum to the back of my knee (caused by my calves sticking out too much, I think). Does anyone know of other alteration tricks? Thanks! Christine |
User: cychen
Member since: 09-10-2004 Total posts: 15 |
From: MaryW
Date: 11-15-2004, 12:37 PM (2 of 4)
|
Hi cychen, sorry you have had to wait so long for answers. I think calve adjustments are fairly simple. Try this with a muslin of some sort. This is taken from Singer's Sewing Pants that Fit. On your pattern piece, draw knee line perpendicular to grainline. Move lower section 1/2" to 1 1/2" toward side seam. Adjust front and back an equal amount. Mark new center grainline. Let me know how this works for you. 
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
|
From: auzzi
Date: 12-04-2004, 06:25 AM (3 of 4)
|
Consulted two alteration books: The first suggested a narrow flat bottom that needed the curviness of the "cheeks" reduced. This is done by making a curved dart [crescent-shaped] either side of the central back seam. It starts near the back waist-line and extends down to just before it starts to curve to the crotch. In fact, if you look at the back pattern-piece, the seam line looks like a "J" that is falling to the right. What you are doing is making it more upright, thereby reducing the curviness that accommodates the "cheeks" Alternatively: The second suggests that the pattern is "drooping". Take a hold of the central back-seam and pull it upwards. This will erase bagginess caused by drooping. The "peak" caused by this pulling up should be smoothed / removed from your pattern piece. The "funny diagonal wrinkles from the outer side of my bum to the back of my knee" is probably connected to the droopy b*m wrinkles, not fat calves. Pull up the central back seam and see what happens. |
User: auzzi
Member since: 10-28-2003 Total posts: 56 |
From: MaryW
Date: 12-04-2004, 12:46 PM (4 of 4)
|
Not fat calves, but maybe bowlegged.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542
|
Visit Sew What’s Up for the latest sewing and quilting tips and discussions.
This page was originally located on Sew What’s New (www.sew-whats-new.com) at http://www.sew-whats-new.com/vb/archive/index.php/t-14177.html
Sew What’s Up is hosted by ZenSoft