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This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and
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From: my8kidsmom
Date: 11-29-2004, 12:57 PM (1 of 7)
Hi! I hope I can make sense  When I buy patterns I usually go by the high bust measurement rather than the full bust. Which usually means some tweaking since I am a C cup. However I always end up with everthing above the bust being too big. There are horizontal wrinkles from the arm holes and the neckline gapes. Any suggestions? Thanks! |
User: my8kidsmom
Member since: 11-14-2004 Total posts: 5 |
From: paroper
Date: 11-29-2004, 11:56 PM (2 of 7)
|
It is hard to be sure exactly what is wrong without seeing your garment but I'm going to hazzard a guess. To me it sounds like you might need to make a narrow shoulder alteration. It is an L-shape adjustment from the center of the shoulder to the center of the armhole and a pivot reducing extra at the shoulder. If I am right that would take care of the "extra" in the shoulders. Wrinkles always point to the problem. It is interesting that you say that there are horizontal wrinkles across the upper chest(?) but the shoulders are too large Are your armholes too high? If this is the problem, you might want to make a slash all the way across the pattern above the point that the armholes turn in toward the underarm. Then spread the pattern according to the amount of new length you need. Be sure and add that amount to the back and to the sleeve too. Also, if your armholes are too high, make sure that your darts are correct. They should point to the fullest part of your bustline. I am a strong believer in making models of my clothing before I do heavy sewing. The best thing you can use to check out these ideas is 1 inch gingham because you can use the checks to help you measure but any stable fabric from the dollar bin would be great for practice. All of these ideas can be checked on your garment before you even do any more cutting or sewing. Just stand in front of a mirror and look at your garment. At the shoulders take a finger tuck and see if your lines look better. Then take a look at the underarm area and see if it is restricting your movement or is uncomfortable. The underarms should not fit tightly in a tightly fitted garment, you should still have as much as one half to three fourths of an inch under the arm. Turn and look to see if the bust points are in the correct place. If you make the horizontal adjustment, be sure that you check your darts, the slash will lower the bust line of the garment. Good luck. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: fisherfolk
Date: 11-30-2004, 12:04 AM (3 of 7)
If you can, try to get hold of this book from Singer "the Perfect Fit" - I've got it and find it excellent for those fitting hassles that you describe! Mine is published by Cowles Creative Publishing, 1987, however there may be a newer edition since. The address for the publisher in the book is 5900 Green Oak Drive, Minnetonka, Minnesota 55343. Or, you could always have a look in your local library for a sewing / fitting book, or contact Singer directly for the book. If you like, I could scan the relevant pages for you, and send to your email...Let me know...Good Luck. 
|
User: fisherfolk
Member since: 11-07-2004 Total posts: 7 |
From: my8kidsmom
Date: 11-30-2004, 09:29 AM (4 of 7)
|
I wonder if there is a place to post pics? The only way I can find to fix it is use two darts, one pointing to full bust and one going horizontal across the chest above the bust kind of like a backwards 7 . I thought maybe the pattern was too big in the beginning but I doublechecked my measurements and no luck. I too thought it was a problem with narrow shoulders but that doesn't solve it. Must be a combination? Fisherfolk, I would appreciate it if you could email me those pages. Should I post my email on here or will you be able to find in the member list. Thank you both for your help! Rachel |
User: my8kidsmom
Member since: 11-14-2004 Total posts: 5 |
From: auzzi
Date: 12-02-2004, 07:09 AM (5 of 7)
|
From my alterations book: Garment Shoulder line too high: There is a definite gap at the neckline as well as a droop at the armhole seam. However, the bodice darts, waistline and other parts of the garment fall into their proper place on the body.. If the garment is sleeveless, the gap is also noticeable at the armhole. 1. When the excess is the same on both the front and back, increase the width of the shoulder seam e.g. 5/8" to 1" 2. if it fits the back, un-stitch the shoulder, pull the front up and repin. The back seam width will still be 5/8" but the front, for example, may be 1" 3. if it fits the front, un-stitch the shoulder, pull the back up and repin. The front seam width will still be 5/8" but the back, for example, may be 1". It sounds like either Fit 1. or Fit 2. Once this is done, re-check the neckline. Note: If the wrinkles run vertically,with the neckline gape, I would suggest that your front is narrower than the pattern. I would cut a new front rather than trying to alter it.. Check your wrinkles, and make up a test muslin. |
User: auzzi
Member since: 10-28-2003 Total posts: 56 |
From: MaryW
Date: 12-02-2004, 07:42 AM (6 of 7)
|
Is this of any help? http://sew-whats-new.com/petite-plus/article1/shoulderdarts.shtml MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
|
From: my8kidsmom
Date: 12-02-2004, 10:36 AM (7 of 7)
| Thank you! I printed out both posts. I have some swedish pattern paper that I will make a muslin out of. I would love to finally have a bodice that fits. |
User: my8kidsmom
Member since: 11-14-2004 Total posts: 5 |
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