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From: suzan
Date: 12-29-2004, 03:33 PM (1 of 15)
| I have a question about lining both a dress and a jacket. My problem is I haven’t quite enough material to make what I want. The pattern calls for 2.9 meters at 150 cm width. I only have 2.6 meters of 144 cm width. What I was wondering is if I line the dress do I still have to put in facings and interfacing or will the lining do the job for both? If I have to put facings in can I use another material other than the fabric I will make the dress out of? The fabric is linen and I want to line it with poplin (cotton/polyester blend) because it is the coolest material for this climate (besides the fact that it is about the only kind of lining we can get here). If I have to put facings in with the lining, could I use the poplin for the facing instead of the fabric the dress is made from? The colors match perfectly so that wouldn’t be a problem. Also can I ask another question about the material while I am at it? In a book I read it says I should pre-shrink the linen in hot sudsy water for 5 to 8 minutes. I have never used linen before and am worried I will ruin the material. Once the garment is made upkeep will have to be either hand-washing or machine-washing. Any help with all of this is sure appreciated. |
User: suzan
Member since: 03-05-2002 Total posts: 22 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 12-29-2004, 04:48 PM (2 of 15)
|
Pretreat the fabric the same way you intend to clean the finished garment. As for facing from another fabric, I'd go for it. I'd stabilize the facing with iron in innerfacing to be sure it doesn't stretch. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: pucktricks
Date: 12-30-2004, 01:24 PM (3 of 15)
|
From your description, if you are lining the entire garment, I don't see why you should need a facing material. Once you line a garment that would replace the lining from my understanding. Ticia |
User: pucktricks
Member since: 03-31-2004 Total posts: 570 
|
From: suzan
Date: 12-30-2004, 02:13 PM (4 of 15)
|
Thank you Dorothy. That means I'll put it in the washing machine at 50 degrees and let it run it's cycle. I sure hope it doesn't shrink too much. When you say innerfacing do you mean interfacing - the white stuff that is stiff and ironed on? At least that is what we get here. Thank you too Ticia. This is what I read too but I was wondering if the facing (because it is supported by interfacing) didn't give stability to the edges of the garment (such as the neck and armholes). I noticed some store bought clothes have facings sewed to them and lining attached from the facing down. I thought I could use the lining as facing supported by interfacing and then attach lining to the bottom of that facing. Does this sound complicated? |
User: suzan
Member since: 03-05-2002 Total posts: 22 |
From: pucktricks
Date: 12-30-2004, 06:09 PM (5 of 15)
|
I'm lazy, so I would just cut the interfacing as they say for the facing, and then iron it to the lining, then you don't have to cut and sew two different things, which to me seems redundant. (Of course this is assuming you're using iron on interfacing, if not, then you'll just sew it in as normal with the lining. Ticia, who half the time substitues a semi-lining for facing in dresses |
User: pucktricks
Member since: 03-31-2004 Total posts: 570
|
From: paroper
Date: 12-30-2004, 11:21 PM (6 of 15)
|
It is really a matter of personal preference. I like the look of the facings over the lining. Some patterns call for it and others don't. I think that it looks more finished than just using the lining. I would use a contrasting linen for the facings if I didn't have enough. Most patterns companies overestimate the amount of fabric you need though and you may have enough.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: suzan
Date: 12-31-2004, 12:31 AM (7 of 15)
|
O.K. Thanks alot everyone. Now I just have to decide which way I am going to go. But first I have to get the courage to preshrink the material. I am happy to know that lining can replace the facings. If I don't do it on this dress I will definitely try it on another one to see how it looks.Thanks again and here's hoping that I don't mess this up. Sue |
User: suzan
Member since: 03-05-2002 Total posts: 22 |
From: paroper
Date: 12-31-2004, 01:46 AM (8 of 15)
|
If it is sleeveless and you don't use facings and there is no collar, let us know. There are some tricks you can use to do the lining so that you don't have much hand-stitching. The facings make finishing the neckline pretty straight forward. If you need the info let us know and tell us if there is a front or back seam.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: pucktricks
Date: 12-31-2004, 09:46 AM (9 of 15)
|
Pam- why do you like the look of facings better than lining? I always like partially lining better than facing for bodices because then it encloses all of the messy seams (I also am tending to make lots of jumper dresses and such stuff, so this also covers the gathering). Ticia |
User: pucktricks
Member since: 03-31-2004 Total posts: 570
|
From: paroper
Date: 12-31-2004, 09:54 AM (10 of 15)
|
No matter what you do, that top seam quite often shows at one time or another so you can quite often see the lining fabric which often looks like lining fabric. Seeing a totally different fabric at the top of a garment is akin to seeing my underwear (to me). There are times when it is very much in fashion to put contrasting facings in the garments as an accent. Personally I prefer a simular fabric in a contrasting color as an accent or the same fabric in facings. That is just my personal taste and I think it looks a little more expensive. If I purchase a pattern that calls for the lining without facings, I don't usually change it, I just prefer the facings.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: pucktricks
Date: 12-31-2004, 09:59 AM (11 of 15)
|
Thanks for the quick reply Pam. I guess when I've topstitched the lining to the dress or shirt, I haven't really had problems with it. Ticia |
User: pucktricks
Member since: 03-31-2004 Total posts: 570
|
From: paroper
Date: 12-31-2004, 10:07 AM (12 of 15)
|
Top stitching does help. I'm just from the "old" school when it comes to some things. Wow, I'm becoming my mother (ouch).
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: suzan
Date: 12-31-2004, 03:00 PM (13 of 15)
|
Hello Pam, It is a sleeveless dress with a round neckline (no collar) and if I had enough material I would put in the facings. I made what I think is called a sloper. Just the basic pieces put together so I could see how it would fit and make any adjustments. Ugh! Am I ever glad I didn't just go and cut up my material with that pattern. I did the dress first and ended up with a gaping neckline. I tried to fix it the way the book says but it still gapes! Then I made up the jacket and ouch! The back is really nice but the front!!!! UGH! I don't even know where to begin to make the adjustments. It feels like the armholes are in the middle of the front. They aren't but that is how it feels when it is on. And then it pleats over the bust! This is where I really wish I knew how to make up my own patterns. My husband suggests that I take it to a local seamstress and get it done. But I am curious to hear what tricks you have for the facings. |
User: suzan
Member since: 03-05-2002 Total posts: 22 |
From: paroper
Date: 12-31-2004, 06:08 PM (14 of 15)
|
Ok here goes. When I make a garment that is sleeveless and collarless I first put all the darts in the garment. If it requires stay stitching I also do that. Then I pin the front to the front lining at the neck and arm holes. (I do NOT turn either of these seams down 5/8). Then I will sew the front and front lining together at the arms and neck. Then I will pin the back and the back lining together. When I get to the SHOULDER seam I leave a 5/8 inch "tab" on the garment and fold the lining down allowing a 5/8 inch seam (I'll explain in a minute). I then sew the back garment to the back lining at the neck and arm hole. At this point I clip and trim all seams and curves. If the fabric is heavy, I layer trim the seams, if it is light weight, I just trim the seams. Then, you can turn the two pieces. I like to run a seam pretty close to the neck seam sewing the lining (from the outside) to the seam allowances around the neck and the sleeves. This makes the lining lay down better. If you want to top stitch, you can do it after the next step. Now I join the shoulder seams. I take the front shoulder garment and lining (you should have something like a tab) and sew it to the back garment tab (be careful not to catch the back lining) using a 5/8 inch seam. Be sure that you get the edges just as close to a match as possible. Sew the front to the back at the shoulders. When you finish, you can trim the seam or press it, depending on bulk. Then tuck the seam inside the little "pocket" created by the opening between the back and the back lining. Slip stitch down the back lining and this will give you a nice clean finish to your neck and shoulder. Press your garment. If you want to top stitch, this is a great time to do it while you have full access to the neckline. Once you get use to this idea, you can do some pretty creative things to get a clean finished neck and arm hole by sewing from the inside of the garment when necessary. The side seams are next. Start by pinning your garment, carefully matching the seams under the arm. Pin the lining to the lining and the garment to the garment and sew the side seams on each side of the garment, matching back garment to back garment, back lining to back lining on both sides. Press your seams open and you are done with everything except the hems. You can get a more exact match at the underarms if you sew down from the under arm seam just because your garment is less likely to crawl. Now, if you have an opening in your garment in the front or back, you can do this whole thing a little different. You can leave the SIDE SEAMS OPEN and FINISH the shoulders. Then sew the garment to the lining at the neck and shoulders. After the garment is sewn and trimmed you can pull the side that is open, front or back through the shoulder. After you have finished the neckline, if you have a zipper, you can close the back up to the zipper and put the zipper in as you normally would. If you had buttons in the front, you would just sew up the front, around the neck and down the front, sew the arm holes and turn through the shoulders. In the case of a vest, you can sew around the bottom, up the front, around the neck, down the front and across the bottom. Sew the bottom of the back, and sew the arm holes. Then trim and clip where necessary and pull the fronts through the shoulders. Press. Once the garment has been pressed, you can then pin and sew the side seams of the garment together from the inside and then slip stitch the opening that is left in the lining. (You can get that lining hole pretty small too). It is not very difficult to do either of these applications, there is just a lot of information in them. You need to read the directions, decide if you want to try them and what will work in your garment (I think it is the first application) and then follow it step by step. When I am sewing I like to do as much as possible on the machine. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: suzan
Date: 01-01-2005, 02:01 AM (15 of 15)
| Wow! Thanks alot. I will try those tips out on little samples first before I try them out on the real thing. I know that sounds like alot of extra work for nothing but I seldom get things right the first time so like to practice before. So I may be back with some more questions. Thanks again. |
User: suzan
Member since: 03-05-2002 Total posts: 22 |
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