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From: Wens
Date: 01-07-2005, 10:37 AM (1 of 13)
| Does anyone have any helpful hints on sewing in the sleeves easy? I have sewn a few in recently and they are fine, but I think I must be missing out on something. Any good tips you have learned along the way? Thank you |
User: Wens
Member since: 01-05-2001 Total posts: 11 |
From: Wens
Date: 01-12-2005, 10:24 AM (2 of 13)
| No help out there? Did I ask the wrong question??? |
User: Wens
Member since: 01-05-2001 Total posts: 11 |
From: pucktricks
Date: 01-12-2005, 10:30 AM (3 of 13)
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One thing that works for me in some patterns is sewing the sleeves in while the garment is flat. So, before you sew the side seams or the sleeve side seams sew the sleeves to the outfit. This has worked for me several times, however it's not completely foolproof and I don't know if it's the best way, so I hadn't replied earlier. Ticia |
User: pucktricks
Member since: 03-31-2004 Total posts: 570 
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From: Wens
Date: 01-12-2005, 10:35 AM (4 of 13)
| Thank you for the tip. |
User: Wens
Member since: 01-05-2001 Total posts: 11 |
From: Catalina
Date: 01-12-2005, 12:29 PM (5 of 13)
I also prefer the flat construction. I then sew from 1 inch on either side of the underarm to the bodice botton- then go and sew from the underarm to the sleeve botton- just to make sure everything lines up right. Be sure to match all your notches up and make sure the center of the sleeve ist at the center of the shoulder. Before I do sew the side and sleeve up I pin it and try it on to be sure of the fit. Hope this helped a little. In most of the books it'll tell you to sew the side seam first then put the sleeve in, but I have found this way much easier and really don't notice any difference in the end product.  Penny
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User: Catalina
Member since: 01-06-2005 Total posts: 119 |
From: Wens
Date: 01-12-2005, 12:43 PM (6 of 13)
Thank you for the help 
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User: Wens
Member since: 01-05-2001 Total posts: 11 |
From: grandmasue
Date: 01-12-2005, 02:49 PM (7 of 13)
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I agree with the others about putting the sleeve in and then sewing the side seam. The only thing I would add is to sew (machine baste) the sleeve in with a longer stitch the first time. It makes it so much easier to fix those little puckers that may show up and allows you to permantly sew the sleeve in without having pins in the way.
Grandma Sue
------------ At the end I am not showing up at my grave all pretty and well preserved...I am coming in sliding, yelling "What a ride!" |
User: grandmasue
Member since: 10-26-2004 Total posts: 138 
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From: paroper
Date: 01-12-2005, 07:34 PM (8 of 13)
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I'm sure that your pattern says this but use two rows of machine basting stitches. Before I remove the pattern from the fabric, mark the top of the sleeve with a little clip(there is usually a dot on the pattern.) Unless the pattern has a gathered cap, I baste between the single notch at the front and the double notch at the back. The first line of stitching goes at 3/8 and the second at 5/8 (if you pattern company does not use a standard 5/8 seam, you would gather on the seamline and about half way to the edge of the fabric). If you sleeve was designed to have a 5/8 inch seam and you gather at that position, you will be gathering the sleeve exactly as the pattern was designed to fit and have less fullness to remove. Do one sleeve at a time. The less the sleeves are handled during this stage, the better they will look when they are set into the garment. Much of the sleeve is bias grain and certain fabrics will stretch with excessive handling. Once the sleeves are basted, slightly gather the sleeve from the inside sleeve side (the reason is that although basting stitches can often stay in, if you don't get a perfect seam, you can remove any basting that shows and it is easier to access from the under side of the sleeve). If you pull threads on both sides of the sleeve, your threads will become tight and may not move. You are now ready to pin. All pins should run from the inside of the sleeve straight to the edge of the sleeve in a right angle. Then pin the fabric at the end of the sleeve (if you are working with a flat sleeve, if it is already seamed, position the sleeve with the seams meeting under the arm and pin), then add a pin at each notch and one at the top. Then gently ease the fullness. If you do this correctly and match the edges, most of your fullness will be at the 3/8 inch gather, with very little at the 5/8 where your seam will be. As you adjust the fabric, pin and readjust your pins between the notches and the top of the sleeve until you do not have "pleats" in your fabric at the 5/8 in gather line. Someimes I brush the point of the pin lightly over small puckers to remove them. After you are feel that your sleeve is pinned in position correctly, begin sewing. You may baste or sew your sleeve in place. I usually pin and sew from the sleeve side. be sure that you feed your garment through with the sleeve or you may catch your garment in the seam as you sew. When you sew you may sometimes get a few little pleats in your sleeve, stop your machine, and adjust the fabric pleats as you sew if that should happen (again, it is sometimes easier to use the tip of a pin to smooth that out). If you are sewing a sleeve whose seam has been closed, you sew into the arm hole on the sleeve (not the body of the garment). The right side of the sleeve and the right side of the garment are touching and you sew in a circle around the sleeve. (I agree with the idea that it is easier to apply a flat sleeve but sometimes it isn't possible.) Set in sleeves sound a lot scarier than they really are..you'll be a champ in no time! pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Wens
Date: 01-13-2005, 05:59 PM (9 of 13)
Thank you so much for all your help. I will be trying these new ideas on my next set of sleeves very soon I hope 
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User: Wens
Member since: 01-05-2001 Total posts: 11 |
From: Londa
Date: 01-13-2005, 08:09 PM (10 of 13)
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I was tearing my hair out over this on a jacket I was making for my hubby years ago and went to this Polish expert lady in town who had sewn for years in a factory and she taught me this techniquel. Since, I've taught it to literally hundreds of students. It works - try it. THe instructions below are for a smooth set in sleeve - no gathers. Use FEW pins. I pin the underarm seam, the notches, the dots (which I have marked with clips - and if the pattern doesn't have them, it's not a very good pattern), and the top of the sleeve to the shoulder seam, or wherever it is drafted to match up to... THAT's ALL the pins! Have handy a pointed instrument - I use my seam ripper or an awl... I usually teach beginners to chalk in the seam line on the wrong side of the sleeve just as a guide. Having the sleeve side UP at the machine - and starting at the forward notch, and working your way around, and ending at the back notch - so the bottom of the sleeve is sewn in double................ You won't have much ease to work in until you get past the back notches, then the ease should start. And, by the way - for the 1" total at the very top of the sleeve, there really isn't any ease. When you start to get to where there is more sleeve than 'hole', you need to visually divide the excess you have in that area between the pins and plant your left "Tall man" finger down firmly and don't move it! Then...with your pointed instrument, and needle down on on your machine, and slow speed if you have it, you will mush in some fabric each and every stitch. It's kind of a northeast mush - if you can picture that. The fabric of the sleeve is bias in this area, and this mushing' action with the pointed doohicky you have selected will actually work. You just have to try it. After you get it all in - look at your stitching from the garment side. If you see any 'wobbles' - and you probably will - then, garment side up, smooth out the stitching. I even usually have to do this 'fine tuning'. Try it - you'll like it! Though stitching a sleeve in 'flat' as recommended by some above may seem easier, if you master this - you will perhaps think this is easier, as I do. I also think it is more comfortable wearing. Similar to stitching the seams up on a pair of pants and then the crotch seam. Londa
www.londas-sewing.com www.alondaoriginal.com |
User: Londa
Member since: 05-26-2004 Total posts: 39 
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From: DorothyL
Date: 01-14-2005, 07:02 AM (11 of 13)
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I usually do it the way Pam explained but (when I remember to do it) that ease thing with your finger tight behind the foot usually works for most sleeves on most fabrics. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: MaryW
Date: 01-14-2005, 09:42 AM (12 of 13)
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That is a new one Londa, mushing towards the northeast. Sounds like you have a team of sled dogs and a big whip! I will have to try that next time. MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
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From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 01-15-2005, 03:10 PM (13 of 13)
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Londa, I use more pins than you say, but I start and stop stitching just like you do.. A pro showed me that trick a number of years ago.. I think a sleeve set into the armhole after the side seam is sewn is much more comfortable to wear.. Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022 
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