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The Sew What’s New Archive

This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was retired in August 2007. It is being provided by “Sew What’s Up,” which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: HeatherL
Date: 01-19-2005, 08:14 PM (1 of 4)
Simply not sewing on the sleeves is not a great solution for making a garment that's designed to have sleeves...into a sleeveless garment. I've learned that the hard way. You end up with gaps under the arms, and too much overhang on the shoulders.

I recently read a pattern drafting book (but I forget which one, and it was a library loan--damn it!) where it had a "formula" for fixing this...where to add and where to reduce (and how much) when you cut the arm openings.

Does anyone know this trick, and could explain it to me? Or is there a quickie reference online I could review??
User: HeatherL
Member since: 03-13-2004
Total posts: 102
From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 01-19-2005, 08:19 PM (2 of 4)
I don't know the formula, but I know that to make it sleeveless, you have to make the side seam come up furthur under your arm, I have read how much but I cannot remember whether it is 1 or 2 inches higher.. That is the important part to do.. you cannot paste fabric back together.. The overhang on the top of the shoulder can be trimmed off.. A sleeveless opening is ALWAYS snaller than an armseye that is made for a sleeve...
Sew With Love
Libby
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002
Total posts: 2022
From: MaryW
Date: 01-20-2005, 08:51 AM (3 of 4)
Heather, why not make a muslin and experiment with the armscye. Just a front and back would suffice.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005
Total posts: 2542
From: paroper
Date: 01-20-2005, 09:55 AM (4 of 4)
You can buy a French curve ruler at the fabric store. The round part matches the under arm of your pattern. When the pattern is sleeveless, it is almost like the arm hole is "rocked toward the neck. The reason the arm hole is raised is that it is lowered in patterns with sleeves to allow you to raise and stretch your arms. If you notice, your underarm "folds over when you do those things. You don't see that in sleeveless garments.
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
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