Sew What’s Up Presents
The Sew What’s New Archive
This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and
quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was
retired in August 2007. It is being provided by
“Sew What’s Up,”
which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: etheldreda
Date: 01-30-2005, 12:00 PM (1 of 10)
Hello  My friend has asked me to make up a copy of a coat she loves but has worn out. We couldn't find an appropriate pattern, so we took the old one apart (which was fairly heart-rending as you can imagine!) and I used the pieces to make pattern. It's going ok so far but it's a little daunting... Anyway, I've ground to a halt with the collar. I've made up two now and neither of them looks right. I think it would be easier if the coat was still around to look at, but of course it's in bits. Argh! Can anyone recommend any online resources (or books, failing that) for this kind of thing? Or do you have more general sage advice to help with collars? Thank you! PS The sleeves went in first time... I suppose this is how I pay for it 
|
User: etheldreda
Member since: 01-30-2005 Total posts: 3 |
From: paroper
Date: 01-30-2005, 04:54 PM (2 of 10)
|
What kind of collar is it? Does it have a seam at the lapel or mid back or is it solid? Is it like a notched lapel with a collar that has a seam at the notch or is it applied to the top of the coat like a mandarin or a fold-down dress collar. Does it have a round collar or a notched one-piece collar? Is the collar that shows part of the facing to the coat? Where are the buttons in relationship to the collar? What is the lapel likeor does it even have one? Give us a few ideas and maybe we can help. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: etheldreda
Date: 01-30-2005, 06:45 PM (3 of 10)
|
It's made in three pieces: The first forms the outside back of the collar, and it's in two symmetrical parts with a seam down the centre back. It's got two points at the bottom with a curve between that joins to the neck opening of the coat. The second is the top of the collar, the bit that you see from the front. It's the same size and shape as the first piece (place back to back with the first piece, sew it round the edges, turn it right side out + press, and there you are). The third piece is what I guess you could call the facing for the nape of the neck (where the shop's label and the hanging loop would go). The coat has reveres (sp?) - I guess it's like trench coat in that respect - and the collar should sew around the neck opening but stop before the points of the reveres, so you get a nice sideways V shape on each side. I can't work out though how to shape the first two pieces - i.e. how to make sure there's enough collar to turn over and that the points are the right size and shape. The piece I've made based on the parts from the dismembered coat makes a blunt square shape above the revere, not a point. I hope that helps... |
User: etheldreda
Member since: 01-30-2005 Total posts: 3 |
From: paroper
Date: 01-31-2005, 06:51 AM (4 of 10)
|
I don't know how to ask this without making me sound stupid and risk insulting you but I have to ask since I can't see the garment. Is it possible that you are sewing the collar together upside down? If you were doing that you would have the look that you are describing. I have actually sewn the wrong edges together and gotten very confused (after all these years of sewing, I have probably done it all). If you are dealing with notched facings that become the collar it is almost impossible to do, but where the collar is in two pieces and added to the facings, it is really quite easy to get them upside down. Check this first and then if that is not your problem, we'll look at something else.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 01-31-2005, 08:02 AM (5 of 10)
|
Would cutting and sewing it with very large seam allowances help? Then you have room to make mistakes and kind of sculpt the corners. Also when you stitch a corner point instead of making a sharp point make a few stitches at an angle across where the point will be. With something as heavy as a coat do about four. It will make a better point when you turn it. Another trick is to sew from the center to one edge then start at the center and go to the other edge. Try to do a few practice pieces first. When you press it hit it with a shot of steam and put something heavy on it while it cools (I have some marble bookends that work great). Top stitching helps sometimes too. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: MaryW
Date: 01-31-2005, 11:55 AM (6 of 10)
|
I think another trick is to cut the lower collar piece 1/4" smaller all around than the upper collar. It helps the collar turn nicer without seeing the seamlines. Maybe that doesn't apply in this case.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
|
From: DorothyL
Date: 01-31-2005, 02:45 PM (7 of 10)
|
That's right, Mary. I try to do that but I often forget. It really does help it lay better. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: etheldreda
Date: 01-31-2005, 04:53 PM (8 of 10)
|
Paroper - I've been mulling this over all day and embarrassingly, I think you may be right - thank you beaucoup! I'll let you know I get on... Mary, I'll try that and see if it works. I've made two of these collars now and it is really hard to press the seams nicely on the outside. And Dorothy, the marble bookends are a great idea - I'm always too eager to move on with the next thing but I'm sure it must help it lie better. Explain to me more about the four stitches - I was wondering if there was a way to make the points more pointy I think my main issue is that the collar on the original coat was almost entirely put together with WonderWeb, therefore making it totally impossible to see where the sewing lines are. I thought it was kinda like cheating I really appreciate your help, thank you all
|
User: etheldreda
Member since: 01-30-2005 Total posts: 3 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 01-31-2005, 05:40 PM (9 of 10)
|
Here's what I ment about the point in the collar. Don't make a point. Instead of turning at a sharp angle, hand turn the wheel so you go very slow and make about three or four stitches at an slight angle then another slight angle where you would be if you'd made the sharp angle. You will get a sharper point when it turns -- sounds wrong but it works right. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: paroper
Date: 01-31-2005, 10:07 PM (10 of 10)
|
Hey, I hope that is what the problem is, because it'll be easy to solve.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
Visit Sew What’s Up for the latest sewing and quilting tips and discussions.
This page was originally located on Sew What’s New (www.sew-whats-new.com) at http://www.sew-whats-new.com/vb/archive/index.php/t-14893.html
Sew What’s Up is hosted by ZenSoft