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From: abcameo
Date: 02-01-2005, 10:17 PM (1 of 5)
Let me preface this by warning--I am a beginning-intermediate and/or intermediate sewer depending on the project, with highly-developed design concepts. So my tech skills don't begin to come close to matching my visualization or comprehension skills! (oh oh!  ) I am thinking of adding a lining to a gored skirt pattern. The fabric I’m using for the skirt is a 100% Polyester Jacquard—really pretty light and dark pink sections with roses, shiny like a satiny look and quite lightweight. The skirt pattern normally has an elasticized waistband, and I am going to give the Power Sewing: Step-by-Step “Designer Waistband that Grows” technique a try (Page 115-118), so that includes adding a zipper. Since the skirt is made up of about 10 sections, it flows when you walk and moves easily, with some flare at the bottom. I’m hoping someone can suggest how to cut out a lining to suit this skirt—maybe one that ends just below the point where the fullness starts so that it would make this section stand away a little for emphasis on the graceful movement. Would I use a standard amount of sections to create the lining—2 or 4? And what type lining material do you think would be suitable to use? I was almost thinking a silky type upper and then somehow maybe using a very lightweight net on the bottom to gently push the skirt outward. Also, should I attach the lining all the way to the top raw edge of the waistline prior to adding the elasticized waistband, or would I add the lining after the waistband is completed, perhaps stitching it to the lower edge of the waistband? Starting it at the top raw edge would be easier but do you think it would add too much bulk to an elasticized waistband? All suggestions eagerly welcomed. Amy |
User: abcameo
Member since: 11-02-2004 Total posts: 131 |
From: paroper
Date: 02-01-2005, 11:02 PM (2 of 5)
|
I would definately sew the lining in at the waistband before it is attached. Most linings are also at least tacked at the seam lines so that they don't just "hang" under the garment and so they will add some body as well as visual protection. The first thing that comes to mind is to have you buy a light weight 100% polyest lining and cut exactly like your skirt...matching grainlines EXACTLY...carefull putting the piece together that have matching grainlines (garment piece to lining piece), baste and sew them as one. The negative is that you might loose a little flow (whispyness...is that a word)with this but the lining will move with the dress because it is part of the dress. It will also give your skirt a little more body.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Mom of Six
Date: 02-01-2005, 11:46 PM (3 of 5)
|
I would make the lining exactly like the skirt. Just a little shorter top & bottom. Attatch to top before elastic, Hem seperatly, Then tack at side seams, at the zipper I would hand sew the lining to the zipper. Hope this helps! (please ignore the spelling it is late & I can't think straight) Barb
Happiness is having time to sew!! |
User: Mom of Six
Member since: 11-03-2001 Total posts: 1115 
|
From: DorothyL
Date: 02-02-2005, 07:31 AM (4 of 5)
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If you put the waist band on last you will have a good idea of how it's going to look before you are committed to anything. I agree the lining should be added before you put the waist band on. Maybe you could baste the net on and see how it is going to work. Then, if you like it, stitch it down. I'd keep the whole lining as free of the skirt as possible -- except at the waist. I think if the lining is light you might not have to do much to accomodate the gores at all -- just a gentle A-line would act much like an unattached slip. Let us know what you do and how it works out. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: abcameo
Date: 02-02-2005, 11:40 AM (5 of 5)
|
It would be very difficult to have the lining cut the same as the skirt--it's all contrasting curves involved as the seam moves toward the bottom, hard to explain. So I'm thinking a simple A-line would probably be the way to go. Thank you for instructing me on the best way to sew it--I didn't think to tack it down other than either top or bottom of the waistband. Also, for the suggestions re fabric for the lining. You can see a sample of the skirt, if you're curious, on my website--in a different fabric, a dense micro-pleat, that also had issues to overcome since it was breaking needles or shredding the thread when I sewed on the crossgrain. After a few days of trying, plus having 2 different instructors try and fail, I finally figured out the winning combo to get the thing to sew. Since then, I've made 3 skirts. Look under "Wear-It-Wells" Designer Atelier section. Many thanks, Amy The Wear-with-All http://www.thewearwithall.com |
User: abcameo
Member since: 11-02-2004 Total posts: 131 |
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