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From: mamagoose
Date: 02-08-2005, 08:08 PM (1 of 9)
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Hi all! I have had a problem with the hem/facing area of button-down dresses of which I don't topstitch. It stays loose right at the center front of each side and I can't tack down the facing because it will show. It always hangs a little whopper-jogged too because of the looseness. To make matters worse, when I wear my high-top winter boots, the zipper catches this section. I've thought about mitering where the facing and hem meet, but I don't think that would solve it. There's too much distance between the last button and the top of the hem causing the gaping. Stitch-wiz or wonder under might work, but I've had bubbling happen on some fabrics. What do you think or have you done? TIA mamagoose |
User: mamagoose
Member since: 01-26-2002 Total posts: 168 |
From: paroper
Date: 02-09-2005, 12:07 AM (2 of 9)
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Most of the patterns that I have used with this type of opening tell you to finish the ENTIRE hem with the front facing open. Then, fold the front facing back so that you have a smooth front edge and slip stitch lightly the the facing to the hem. I'm not sure about your gapping problem but if your buttonholes run vertical instead of horizontal, the garment is more prone to gap, also the garment is more likely to come unbuttoned.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: mamadus
Date: 02-09-2005, 02:23 AM (3 of 9)
hey pam.. thanks for that tip regarding vertical buttonholes..  that's something I didn't know!!  MO life is too short, not to explore
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User: mamadus
Member since: 12-31-2004 Total posts: 492 
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From: paroper
Date: 02-09-2005, 05:17 AM (4 of 9)
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You're welcome!
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: mamagoose
Date: 02-12-2005, 04:09 PM (5 of 9)
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paroper, Thanks for your response! I'm adding pics here to help explain what's happening. Please excuse that the dress is not freshly pressed, although it pretty much hangs like this even when pressed. It is a lightweight sueded, poly microfiber and I machine wash it. As I stated before, the zipper on my high top boots has caught the serging thread and ripped it out on the facing, but I only expect to wear it one more fall/winter season. You might be able to tell where I made a "repair" with some hand stitches. I believe from what you explained that is how I finished the turn where the facing and hem come together. It's almost like the facing is shorter than the actual front piece of the dress when it hangs and kind of puckers. But then the facing seems awful loose because there is no tacking for over 8 inches from the last button. See what I mean? I never have a problem with topstitched fronts of course. Have any ideas for preventing this on my next dress? Thanks! http://www.savepic.com/freepicturehosting/is.php?i=327527&img=wide_view.jpg http://www.savepic.com/freepicturehosting/is.php?i=327528&img=length_from_last_button.jpg http://www.savepic.com/freepicturehosting/is.php?i=327529&img=hem_closeup.jpg |
User: mamagoose
Member since: 01-26-2002 Total posts: 168 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 02-13-2005, 09:41 AM (6 of 9)
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Mo -- Sometimes if, instead of hemming across the facing then tacking it down, you can fold the facing to the outside and, with right sides, sew it to the front right along the line where you will turn up the hem on the rest of the dress. Then turn the facing to the inside, press it good and flat and put in the remaining hem . Other times, on a lighter fabric, you can just leave the facing in place and turn it up as part of the hem. Patterns rarely advise this but, sometimes, it works better for me. But with the catching on the boot problem you had I think the first suggestion would help because there wouldn't be an edge for it to catch on. But if your facing seems shorter than the dress after you put interfacing on it -- especially iron-on interfacing -- maybe it really is shorter. Interfacing will cause the fabric to shrink up a little and with a longer piece like the front facing of a dress it can result in the puckers you mentioned. If you apply the interfacing before you cut the piece you can avoid the problem. Try to cut the facing piece near the selvage -- otherwise you have to mark the straight of grain and that's a pain. Just lay your pattern piece and cut out the fabric leaving about 1/2 inch all around. It doesn't have to be cut straight at all. Cut the same shape from interfacing, apply the interfacing to the fabric and then cut out the pattern piece. This trick can really make a difference in your finished product. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: paroper
Date: 02-13-2005, 12:08 PM (7 of 9)
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I had to sleep on this before I wrote you. First of all, the inside of your dress looks very nice. Very nice finish. One of the first things I think I would do because of the boot problem is to finish your facing the old fashioned way...that is to interface, turn under and top stitch the edges rather than zig zag or serge. That would get rid of the problem with the threads and the boot. Sometimes, to help eliminate extra bulk, they would tell us to trim 1/4 inch from the interfacing before we turned the edges...sometimes the interfacing would actually have a different pattern that had that amount removed from the interfacing...anyway, just cuts down on the bulk. As Dorothy said, your interfacing could be shrinking your facings...and that can happen, I also thought that the serger line looked a little bit "tight" like it might be drawing just a little bit...some of that may be due to the fact that the boots have pulled the threads though...a little hard to tell. Sometimes (don't faint), when I put in a line of serge to finish a raw edge (only)...I will manually adjust the threads by moving them after they have been made it is hard to explain but you can use some of the end thread and work it in. Another thing that I have been know to do when just finishing an edge...not sewing a seam...is to clip one of the threads I think is pulling just to give it a little space. I haven'y had a problem with that if the thread is not holding the piece together...I don't do it often, and I only do it in a couple of places. This can be a good last-resort. If you have a turned edge facing, you can also go in a couple of places and run just a couple of slip stitches a couple of places in between the dress and the facing...I don't think that I would do it all the way down, although that is an option, but in order to make it a little less visual..a couple of very slight stitches might help. In all
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: mamagoose
Date: 02-15-2005, 07:56 AM (8 of 9)
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Thank you ladies. I am going to try your suggestions on my next button front dress with facing. Hopefully, soon! I am currently trying to finish a plum (subtly striped) wool blazer I started the first of January. A lot of tedious trimming. I made a pair of poly microfiber pants to go with the jacket that I thought would cut the cold and ... they don't. I suppose they'll be too hot for summer wear and will end up being spring and fall wear only. With temps warming up a bit, the blazer won't get much use in the near future either. I'm often a year behind by the time I get something finished! I want a long raincoat for spring, but I guess I should of thought of that in December. Thanks again, mamagoose |
User: mamagoose
Member since: 01-26-2002 Total posts: 168 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 02-15-2005, 07:59 AM (9 of 9)
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Mamagoose -- I consider myself lucky if I'm only a year behind. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
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