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From: abcameo
Date: 02-18-2005, 02:36 PM (1 of 12)
I am following along with "Step-by-Step Power Sewing" for a center zipper insertion.

Would someone please advise how I go about attaching fusible interfacing on only one side of a seam allowance--not sandwiching it between 2 pieces of fabric? How do I get it to stay put and not to stick to the iron or a piece of press cloth and just fuse onto the wrong side of the fabric?

On hold...
Many thanks,
Amy

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http://www.thewearwithall.com/
User: abcameo
Member since: 11-02-2004
Total posts: 131
From: beachgirl
Date: 02-18-2005, 03:28 PM (2 of 12)
Some fuseables have a paper on it & after you iron it you can pull the paper off. Non paper ones have tiny dots & that goes next to your fabric ( has the glue on it ) & ironing side is smooth. Hope I'm explaining it for what you meant.
User: beachgirl
Member since: 08-31-2004
Total posts: 615
From: paroper
Date: 02-18-2005, 11:26 PM (3 of 12)
There is a fusible web that sandwiches between the fabric...usually used in crafting or at hems. The interfacing that is fusible that is usually used in sewing only irons to the fabric on one side. As Beachgirl said, it most often has dots on the side that goes against your fabric. You can feel them and should be able to see them. Sometimes it is more like a glue. When you iron the interfacing against the fabric, the dots melt adhereing the interfacing to the fabric. Usually you do only cut the interfacing to fit one side of the fabric as opposed to putting it on both sides inside of a cuff...same thing here. It would probably do the most good to adhere a strip to the back of the side that will be showing, not on the seam allowance that will end up on the inside against the zipper (but putting it 5/8 of an inch from the edge may be difficult). Putting it on the seam allowance will do some good but if the top is stretching when you put the zipper in, putting it under the top will be the most beneficial. If you use it inside the fold on both it may make your fabric a little stiff and thick. If you should find that you have placed the interfacing in the wrong spot, you usually can heat it with an iron and peal it back up. I don't think that if you peal it up you will be able to reuse that piece.
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: abcameo
Date: 02-19-2005, 12:59 AM (4 of 12)
I bought the tape because that's the perfect size for this seam allowance. Is only one side sticky? I just figured the whole thing turns sticky when you iron it. But since I'm only ironing downwards onto to one side of the seam allowance, that leaves me wondering about the side facing up staring at the iron.

Can you tell me is an official "pressing cloth" something special because I use a towel or washcloth or something. Maybe an official pressing cloth has no-stick qualities that allow you to iron down fusible without it also getting stuck on the pressing cloth?? Gosh, I really sound like a jerk, sorry, but I just don't know and need to ask to learn...
Amy
User: abcameo
Member since: 11-02-2004
Total posts: 131
From: Catalina
Date: 02-19-2005, 08:25 AM (5 of 12)
They make a telfon pressing cloth that doesn't stick- they sell it at Joannes. What exactly are you trying to do? Penny
User: Catalina
Member since: 01-06-2005
Total posts: 119
From: paroper
Date: 02-19-2005, 08:36 AM (6 of 12)
Amy, I think that you probably have a fusible web. You are not going to get one side (only) to stick with that...eventually, dryer heat or something is going to stick it down...it just dissolves into the fabric. If you add anything to one side you'll just be adding more thickness. I'd also question how stable it will make your garment...it might work, but basically it is composed of glue, not backing. The interfacing is purchased by the bolt and as far as I know is not found in packages pre-cut. It really isn't that big a deal to cut 5/8 ir 1/2 inch off the edge if you need it, anymore than it is a big deal to cut out facings...esp. when you probably only need about 18-25 inches on each side. I think that if I were placing the "real stuff" I'd probalby press the 5/8 inch and then lay the interfacing inside against the 5/8 inch fold. That should stabilize the top layer where you will be sewing so that it doesn't stretch. The bottom layer will be pinched between the zipper and the top so it shouldn't stretch. Be sure and sew far enough away from the zipper so that it doesn't "wave".

As for the pressing cloth question. I'm not sure what it is made of...if you purchase one they are cotton, but the kind? They might be duck because they don't usually have a grain like twill. Whatever they are composed of, they are ususally a little bit heavy. I have a couple that were purchased for some garments but I keep a clean cloth..a yard of heavy muslin that has been washed and serged at the edges or a clean flour sack kitchen towel or even a cloth old fashioned baby diaper (without padding or folds) work very well. Every so often I have to replace my pressing cloth because my husband will find one and think that it has strayed from the kitchen. I always wash them a few times to get the sizing out before I use them (the first time) I try to keep something that has not been used in the kitchen much because I never want to run the risk of pressing something into my clothing. I keep a clean, washed unused bath towel (to get rid of sizing and lint and to fluff the towel) to put under nappy fabrics when I press them...I have a needle board or a steam press for velvet.
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: abcameo
Date: 02-19-2005, 12:16 PM (7 of 12)
The tape I bought is "Classic Notions Press 'n Fuse - All purpose Iron on adhesive for use with most fabrics." I just went ahead and fused it using a washcloth as my pressing cloth. A little of it lifted up when I pulled the cloth away.

Anyway, I sewed in the first half of the invisible zipper. So far so good. I've been studying 3 different books and decided to take a break from the thing because I'm so afraid of wrecking the thing at this crucial point. I'm trying to finish it to put it up for sale on my website. The fabric is so pretty... I also plan to sew up a blouse or two to match after I make it through the skirt.

On another note, I just wrote to someone in a local chapter of the ASG, and I asked if she knew of anyone nearby who might be interested in becoming my sewing mentor one-on-one and explained about myself (ongoing back injury with physical limitations, etc.) I'm hoping there is someone out there who would enjoy design challenges, making a new, enthusiastic friend who is eager to learn and have time to spend in sharing inspiration and the craft. I'm excited because she wrote back and said she forwarded my note on to local guild members who might be able to help me in my search for a sewing mentor.
Amy
User: abcameo
Member since: 11-02-2004
Total posts: 131
From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 02-19-2005, 01:20 PM (8 of 12)
Abcameo,
You need to go to a fabric shop and look for packages that say "Interfacing". most of them come in packages of 3 yards by 18 or 20 inches wide.. It comes in fusible or sew in and usually black or white.. This is something totally different from the fusible web that you have. (or that is what it sounds like to me) If you are going to do garment sewing ,, you are going to need interfacing.. You can also buy it from a bolt by the yard... It is used to stabilize collars , necklines, cuffs, etc...
Sew With Love
Libby
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002
Total posts: 2022
From: abcameo
Date: 02-19-2005, 05:19 PM (9 of 12)
Thanks everyone.
Next time I go to Joanne's, I'm going to check out the pressing cloths. As for the fusible, I do already have interfacings and also bought some regular fusible interfacing--this one was just to stabilize the zipper seam allowance on a delicate fabric, and the Power Sewing book even suggested using fusible tape. It's the perfect width for the seam. Well, I did it, and it seemed to work okay. Also, the fabric has to be dry cleaned; it isn't machine washable.

My original question was how do I fuse the interfacing to ONE SIDE of a seam allowance instead of sandwiching it between the two seam allowances. When I tried ironing it with a washcloth as my pressing cloth, the tape was also sticking to the washcloth and popping up or shredding when I went to remove the cloth from resting on top of the fabric.

For the invisible zipper application, I'm supposed to fuse the interfacing to the wrong side/underside of where the zipper is stitched and then the instructions say to sew the zipper on with that seam allowance lying flat. It gets turned to the inside at the end. In other words, the interfacing definitely can't be fused on both sides of the the seam allowance or you wouldn't be able to open up the section to sew the zipper in. If you have Sandra Betzina's "Power Sewing Step-by-Step," the technique I was following was insertion of a foolproof invisible zipper.

Next, I'm going to attempt the Designer Waistband that Grows for the facing and elastic on this particular skirt. :bolt:
Amy
User: abcameo
Member since: 11-02-2004
Total posts: 131
From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 02-21-2005, 12:17 PM (10 of 12)
You missed my point.. Fusible Interfacing only has glue on one side of it..there is no way it could adhere to both sides.. The Tape stuff is made specifically to bond 2 surfaces together.. You should not use that when you just want to add reinforcement to an area ..
Sew With Love
Libby
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002
Total posts: 2022
From: paroper
Date: 02-21-2005, 01:41 PM (11 of 12)
Thanks, Libby, that was my point too. The fusible web is really like a fusible glue and not an interfacing. It is also meant to fuse fabrics like in hemming applicatiions which is what I am afraid it might do with wear (and basic care) even if you manage to keep it from sticking to both sides of the seam allowance during the initial application. The only thing I didn't realize was that we were dealing with an INVISIBLE zipper, in which case, the interfacing inside the 5/8 seam allowance should be about right.
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: bunzino
Date: 02-21-2005, 02:34 PM (12 of 12)
you also really should get a teflon pressing cloth. They're like a small piece of painter's plastic, and are indispensable for preventing accidents like fusible on your iron!! (ask me how I know).

nancy
User: bunzino
Member since: 08-16-2002
Total posts: 119
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