Sew What’s Up Presents
The Sew What’s New Archive
This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and
quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was
retired in August 2007. It is being provided by
“Sew What’s Up,”
which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: Hogmami
Date: 02-22-2005, 03:28 PM (1 of 51)
|
I can't believe this. For years I have been trying to get a pants pattern to fit me. Well, about a year ago I brought the one seam pants pattern from Cutting Lines Design. Today I decided to try it because I only have one pair of pants. I took my measurements, cut it out in muslin. Serger it together. And a perfect fit. I can't believe it. Now to do the pants lesson with other pants patterns.
Carolyn
Michigan |
User: Hogmami
Member since: 09-30-2004 Total posts: 800 
|
From: Timmel Fabrics
Date: 02-22-2005, 07:34 PM (2 of 51)
|
That pattern by Louise Cutting is a real classic. I read about people trying all sorts of One Seam patterns and I think, why not try the best? Louise has worked out all the fitting problems and gives such great instructions that success is almost guaranteed. I am not a great fan of elastic waist pants for myself because I have no waist and a flat seat. So I end up with a baggy butt in all pull-on pants. But in really drapey fabric, they would work for me, I just can't carry off any fabric that might prove bulky as it just makes me look downright dumpy. Glad to hear of your major success with this pattern. Don't stop at one pair, but make several because then the method will become so easy for you, that you can whip up pants in a very short time. Any other pattern is going to require more time to produce a pair that fits that well. I'm not saying, don't try another pattern, but rather get your money's worth out of that one and don't let it languish in your stash of patterns. Julie Julie, Timmel Fabrics
|
User: Timmel Fabrics
Member since: 06-09-2000 Total posts: 38 |
From: Hogmami
Date: 02-22-2005, 11:10 PM (3 of 51)
|
I plan on using this pattern. I have already started thinking about summer clothes. I would like to get more of her patterns, just have to find the site again.
Carolyn
Michigan |
User: Hogmami
Member since: 09-30-2004 Total posts: 800
|
From: esrun3
Date: 02-22-2005, 11:22 PM (4 of 51)
|
I've never been able to get a pants pattern to really fit either. Where do I get this one?
Lyn
|
User: esrun3
Member since: 12-02-2004 Total posts: 2345 |
From: Hogmami
Date: 02-23-2005, 12:40 AM (5 of 51)
|
I think I ordered it from Nancy's Notion.
Carolyn
Michigan |
User: Hogmami
Member since: 09-30-2004 Total posts: 800
|
From: Timmel Fabrics
Date: 02-23-2005, 07:39 AM (6 of 51)
|
Louise has her own website, www.fabriccollections.com - you can order direct from her. If you live in Canada, I carry the pattern on my site: http://www.timmelfabrics.com/louisecutting.htm Keep in mind that this is a pull-on pant without any fitting done for the derriere and tummy. It is meant for drapey soft fabrics. It is not a style for classic trousers or close-fitting pants. Julie Julie, Timmel Fabrics
|
User: Timmel Fabrics
Member since: 06-09-2000 Total posts: 38 |
From: Timmel Fabrics
Date: 02-23-2005, 08:51 AM (7 of 51)
|
For those who want to take a pant pattern and fit it to themselves, Mary has the first lesson posted. The second, which is altering the pattern, will be posted this week I think. There is quite a bit of work involved if you have alterations, but take it slow and you can do most of this. There is hardly anyone who fits the pattern right out of the envelope and that is because the pattern companies have to start with a norm, and most of us differ from that in different ways. They can't produce a pattern that will take care of all those variations, so it is necessary to learn to alter patterns if you are looking for good fit. I haven't listed any numbers of patterns but I recommend Burda because they have a very good crotch curve, different from American pattern companies. They make the back deeper and longer, and the front shorter and higher up which actually fits most of us better. I don't often get to the store to see the Burda patterns and they aren't online, so that is why I haven't posted numbers. But pick a pattern that has no pockets, or only side seam ones (not the kind that form part of the front of the pants), choose one with a leg width that looks good to you, with front and back darts (try to avoid pleated pants for fitting), a fly front or center back zipper is easiest. Also a waistband, not a pant with a faced waist. All of these are written in the description on the back of the envelope, so look for those features if you wish to take part in this online class. Julie Julie, Timmel Fabrics
|
User: Timmel Fabrics
Member since: 06-09-2000 Total posts: 38 |
From: Hogmami
Date: 02-23-2005, 12:16 PM (8 of 51)
|
I'm going to be working on the lessons Mary has for us on the home site. Have to find a pattern I like. I just ordered the Burda magazine. They said I would get the March issue soon. I have never seen this patterns but have read what everyone here has said about them. Can't wait to get the magazine and hopefully order some patterns.
Carolyn
Michigan |
User: Hogmami
Member since: 09-30-2004 Total posts: 800
|
From: Timmel Fabrics
Date: 02-23-2005, 12:36 PM (9 of 51)
|
Michelle, the BUrda magazine is different from Burda patterns sold in fabric stores. The magazine has about 60 patterns included in the middle, in about 3 sizes for each. YOu can trace them off and sew from those. There are no seam allowances though, and you have to add them all plus hems. So it is more work than normal. BUrda patterns sold from the catalogs in the fabric stores have seam allowances included. Price wise, the magazine gives you so much for about the price of one pattern, and the pictures and fashion write-ups are worth the price alone. But, if you just want one pattern, you have to buy from a store. You can't order those patterns from the magazine. Julie Julie, Timmel Fabrics
|
User: Timmel Fabrics
Member since: 06-09-2000 Total posts: 38 |
From: mommydionne
Date: 02-25-2005, 09:47 AM (10 of 51)
Any opinions on Peggy Sayer's pant pattern, I have it but haven't tried it yet, (still working on the baby tummy  )
Jeanette
|
User: mommydionne
Member since: 01-08-2004 Total posts: 838 
|
From: Timmel Fabrics
Date: 02-25-2005, 10:15 AM (11 of 51)
|
Yes, I made this pattern. I do find the sizing tricky. It wasn't hard to pick a size for a top, but I found that some of the measurements cross over on the pants. The ones for regular sizes and for W sizes. Peggy says to go with the closest ones to your own which put me into a W size. But when I made it up, it was enormous. So I recut them with a regular size that was close to my measurements and it worked fine. Peggy says the W sizes are for women carrying a lot of weight on a smallish frame, but if you just go with measurements, you wouldn't know that. Once I got the right size, the pants were fine. I prefer a mock fly but it was good to learn this method and it works well. The zipper turned out to be good, the pockets are perfect (I often find that pockets dont' blend into the side seam well but these did) and they were nice and deep. I also substituted my own waistband which is the one with banroll elastic as the interfacing and make the band bigger but the elastic smaller so that the band pulls in on your body. I should make the pants again, as they fit well now that I worked out my size. Julie Julie, Timmel Fabrics
|
User: Timmel Fabrics
Member since: 06-09-2000 Total posts: 38 |
From: Writer
Date: 03-04-2005, 10:28 AM (12 of 51)
|
Julie, I'm using a Sandra Betzina today's fit pattern but it doesn't have darts. Should I go look for a different pattern? Diana |
User: Writer
Member since: 01-16-2001 Total posts: 184 
|
From: Timmel Fabrics
Date: 03-04-2005, 11:57 AM (13 of 51)
|
Hi Diana, which pattern do you have? I just checked the Vogue site and none of Sandra's current patterns would do well for this. They either have elastic waists, or they have those side pocket which form part of the front of the pants and you would have to eliminate those. I opted for Burda because they have the slimmest fit through the legs, a problem common with the big 4 as they are called (McCalls, Butterick, Vogue and Simplicity). To get a pattern to fit your hips, you end up with elephant thighs. Now Sandra is better at the fit than that, but if your pattern doesn't have a waistband as opposed to elastic waist, and if it has those pockets that show at the front, then it would be easier to choose another pattern. By being so specific about the pattern, I am trying to avoid a whole lot of issues that will detract from the lesson, which is fitting. Julie Julie, Timmel Fabrics
|
User: Timmel Fabrics
Member since: 06-09-2000 Total posts: 38 |
From: Hogmami
Date: 03-04-2005, 01:00 PM (14 of 51)
|
Never having seen a Burda pattern. Today I was in JoAnn's and they are now selling them. I found one for pants and got it with my coupon (came to 1.59). I also ordered the Burda magazine, so I got home, checked the mail and there it was. So far I like the magazine. Will get to the patterns later.
Carolyn
Michigan |
User: Hogmami
Member since: 09-30-2004 Total posts: 800
|
From: Writer
Date: 03-04-2005, 02:04 PM (15 of 51)
|
Hi Diana, which pattern do you have? ... but if your pattern doesn't have a waistband as opposed to elastic waist, and if it has those pockets that show at the front, then it would be easier to choose another pattern. By being so specific about the pattern, I am trying to avoid a whole lot of issues that will detract from the lesson, which is fitting. Julie Julie, The pattern number is V7881 I've had it awhile.  This is the description Straight-legged pants (semi fittend through hip) have contour, front button youke and mock fly zipper, view a couture construction view b darts. I traced view a.If this doesn't sound like it will work I'll go to Joanne's tomorrow and see if I can find a Burda pattern. Thanks, Diana |
User: Writer
Member since: 01-16-2001 Total posts: 184
|
From: Timmel Fabrics
Date: 03-04-2005, 07:28 PM (16 of 51)
|
The Betzina pattern will be hard to work with. Having a front yoke, this means that you are dealing with several pattern pieces. You would have to overlap them to remove the seam allowances, to get a full front piece. Rather than introduce more complications into pant fitting, that is why I recommended a pattern with a plain flat front with darts only (no pleats), no pockets (if the pattern has side pockets in the seams, they will be eliminated so that is okay), and a fly front or back zip. This style of pattern is the simplest. It's not that you can't alter other styles, but you have to work through the design changes that have been made and that makes the work harder. It is quite easy to get sidetracked. The plainer the pants, the better, less details in the way. Later, you can take your alterations and use them on other styles, but it is so much easier to start with simple first. Julie
Julie, Timmel Fabrics
|
User: Timmel Fabrics
Member since: 06-09-2000 Total posts: 38 |
From: Writer
Date: 03-07-2005, 12:32 PM (17 of 51)
|
Thanks Julie, I bought a Burda pattern this weekend. So next weekend I'll start tracing and changing. Diana |
User: Writer
Member since: 01-16-2001 Total posts: 184
|
From: Timmel Fabrics
Date: 03-11-2005, 12:15 PM (18 of 51)
|
Has anyone adjusted their pattern yet? let us know if you are having any problems or questions. Julie
Julie, Timmel Fabrics
|
User: Timmel Fabrics
Member since: 06-09-2000 Total posts: 38 |
From: Hogmami
Date: 03-11-2005, 12:25 PM (19 of 51)
|
Haven't started but hope to next week. I have read your instrutions and they seem real clear to me. Let you know after I get started.
Carolyn
Michigan |
User: Hogmami
Member since: 09-30-2004 Total posts: 800
|
From: K8_Dog
Date: 03-11-2005, 11:07 PM (20 of 51)
|
Hi Intrepid Pants-Makers, I had already started working on pattern adjustments when I saw that these pants lessons were going on. I'm really excited, but I already started with a big 4 pattern. From previous (failed) attempts, I know I'm going to have the so-called "elephant thighs" issue, where the pants fit through the hips, but there is so much extra fabric around the thighs I could carry bags of groceries in there. Any suggestions? |
User: K8_Dog
Member since: 05-05-2004 Total posts: 26 |
From: K8_Dog
Date: 03-11-2005, 11:47 PM (21 of 51)
|
Hi Again, Julie, I have another question. I am measuring the crotch length of the front and back pattern pieces. Do I add on the "height" of the waistband in the front and back when I measure the crotch length of the pattern? Or is the waistband supposed to sit above the waistline? Thanks. Kate |
User: K8_Dog
Member since: 05-05-2004 Total posts: 26 |
From: Timmel Fabrics
Date: 03-13-2005, 12:41 PM (22 of 51)
|
Sorry, I just saw your questions. I would say try another pattern. I have not had great success with pant patterns from the Big 4, unless they were Pati Palmer's pants from McCalls. She gives lots of specific instructions for fit which helps. Once you get a nice pair of pants, you can overlay them on top of other patterns and see where they vary. Sometimes it isn't always the size of the legs, but the angle at which they are joined to the torso part. Different pant makers change things slightly here and it makes pants hang totally different. Some pant designers can make pants with large legs that everyone loves, the Euro pants from Loes Hinse is an example. I find that Burda draft more closely to the body and get rid of some of those troublesome issues that plague the other pattern companies, that's why I suggest them. Then when you get a pair to fit, you can alter other patterns in the critical areas, to get good fit but a slightly different style. Your question about the crotch length, dont' worry about the waistband. It is sewn to the pants at your waist and is meant to sit above it. So you measure from the stitching line on the front crotch around to the stitching line on the back crotch, also eliminating the seam allowances at any other seams. The waistband doesn't come into this at all. When you fit your pants, you will tie an elastic around the muslin to find your waist and then you chalk below that elastic to find the stitching line for the waistband. This is for traditional pants where they come to the waist, not above or below. I have some diagrams to do for the next lesson, but my twin grandchildren are here for a week and it is impossible to do any work with them here, they are just turning two. So the next lesson won't be available until a week from now, sorry about that. I have the text written but no diagrams yet. Julie Julie, Timmel Fabrics
|
User: Timmel Fabrics
Member since: 06-09-2000 Total posts: 38 |
From: K8_Dog
Date: 03-13-2005, 12:43 PM (23 of 51)
|
Thanks for your quick reply, Julie. I'll go out and try a new pattern, no sense struggling for no reason. I am looking forward to the next lesson. Enjoy your grandkids!! Kate |
User: K8_Dog
Member since: 05-05-2004 Total posts: 26 |
From: Writer
Date: 03-14-2005, 08:47 AM (24 of 51)
|
I finished altering my pattern yesterday. It took me longer than I thought it would but I'm happy. This is the first time a pattern resembles the clothing I wear! I feel confident that I am close to a good fit or at least closer than I've ever been before. Thanks Julie. Diana |
User: Writer
Member since: 01-16-2001 Total posts: 184
|
From: Timmel Fabrics
Date: 03-14-2005, 12:10 PM (25 of 51)
|
Diana, that's great. I will send Mary the next lesson next weekend and then you can make up your muslin and we will fine tune the fit. I sure hope this works out for you. Sometimes, it takes a few tries to get good pants, but every step gets you closer to what you want. Then we will use that pattern to check others for fit and you can cut lots of other patterns with much more confidence. Julie
Julie, Timmel Fabrics
|
User: Timmel Fabrics
Member since: 06-09-2000 Total posts: 38 |
From: Writer
Date: 03-17-2005, 01:12 PM (26 of 51)
|
I'll be watching for it Julie. On the cover of More magazine this month Andie MacDowell is wearing a pair of pants I want. I'm going to think positive and begin searching for fabric similar to that. I can't wait to start working on the muslin. Diana |
User: Writer
Member since: 01-16-2001 Total posts: 184
|
From: Writer
Date: 03-24-2005, 11:36 AM (27 of 51)
|
Julie, I know Mary is unavalible right now so I know I won't get your lesson before this weekend. I'm wondering if the same fitting techniques work for a skirt with a waist band? If it is I'll try doing that on Sat. Diana |
User: Writer
Member since: 01-16-2001 Total posts: 184
|
From: Timmel Fabrics
Date: 03-24-2005, 03:10 PM (28 of 51)
|
Hi Diana, definitely yes. A skirt is much easier too, since you are only dealing with two dimensions. Unless you have some big fitting problems, skirts are the easiest to alter. Go by your hip measurement, then alter the waist to fit yours. You can add to the side seams, and also alter darts to get what you need. Be sure to alter for length within the pattern so that you don't lose any shaping that is there. Do you have a skirt pattern in mind? I can look at it online if you do. Julie
Julie, Timmel Fabrics
|
User: Timmel Fabrics
Member since: 06-09-2000 Total posts: 38 |
From: Writer
Date: 03-24-2005, 04:58 PM (29 of 51)
|
Hi Julie, I'm not sure what pattern I'm going to use. I have to look through my stash. But if there is a good burda pattern 8 pannel I'd buy that tomorrow. Do you have one you'd recommend? I don't have a big fitting problem. It's just if I buy for my hips the waist is to big. Diana |
User: Writer
Member since: 01-16-2001 Total posts: 184
|
From: Timmel Fabrics
Date: 03-24-2005, 08:14 PM (30 of 51)
|
No, sorry, I don't get up to the fabric store and I haven't looked through the catalog in a while. So I don't know what patterns are current. I wish that Burda had a website with their patterns, they might, but I am not aware of it. Otherwise I would go there and look. Just dont' have the time to go to the fabric store! Julie
Julie, Timmel Fabrics
|
User: Timmel Fabrics
Member since: 06-09-2000 Total posts: 38 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 03-25-2005, 06:56 AM (31 of 51)
|
http://www.1sewingpatterns.com/index-burda.html Try that Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: Timmel Fabrics
Date: 03-25-2005, 09:11 AM (32 of 51)
|
Thank you for that, Dorothy. Aack, another way to buy more patterns - online! I went quickly through the pants patterns and picked out 4 that would work for our fitting lessons. In order of preference: 3114 and 8341 then 8284 and 2998 Good luck, Julie Julie, Timmel Fabrics
|
User: Timmel Fabrics
Member since: 06-09-2000 Total posts: 38 |
From: Writer
Date: 03-25-2005, 10:19 AM (33 of 51)
|
Dorothy! What a find! thank you! Julie, I'm sorry you don't have more time to visit fabric stores. The good part of that is I'm sure you have more money in the bank becasue you don't.  Diana |
User: Writer
Member since: 01-16-2001 Total posts: 184
|
From: DorothyL
Date: 03-25-2005, 12:01 PM (34 of 51)
|
Gee -- If you like that, check this one out http://www.1sewingpatterns.com/index.php Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: Writer
Date: 03-25-2005, 02:15 PM (35 of 51)
Stop! I have to write sometime today!  Shopping is more fun!I went on line to order the Burda magazine from Amazon. It's $60. but if I get their amazon credit card I can get it for $30. I applied but now I have to wait about 2 weeks to be approved then wait for more weeks for the magazine to be delivered. I wish I could find on the newstands here.  I thought I saw it at Borders once but I can't find it there now.  Diana |
User: Writer
Member since: 01-16-2001 Total posts: 184
|
From: Writer
Date: 04-02-2005, 10:03 AM (36 of 51)
Is the next lesson going to be up soon? I'm anxious to cut my muslin and it's amazing I've been able to make myself wait this long.  I'm one of those instant gratification sewers. Diana |
User: Writer
Member since: 01-16-2001 Total posts: 184
|
From: Timmel Fabrics
Date: 04-02-2005, 11:07 AM (37 of 51)
|
Should be this week, Diana. Mary had a death in her family and then we had some trouble getting the diagrams over to her website from my computer. But she has them now and I 'm sure she will have it up early this week. Julie
Julie, Timmel Fabrics
|
User: Timmel Fabrics
Member since: 06-09-2000 Total posts: 38 |
From: Writer
Date: 04-02-2005, 04:32 PM (38 of 51)
|
Thanks for letting me know Julie. i'm sorry to be so impatient. DIana |
User: Writer
Member since: 01-16-2001 Total posts: 184
|
From: Timmel Fabrics
Date: 04-02-2005, 04:53 PM (39 of 51)
|
No, you're not impatient. It has been a while. Won't be long now. Julie
Julie, Timmel Fabrics
|
User: Timmel Fabrics
Member since: 06-09-2000 Total posts: 38 |
From: Writer
Date: 04-04-2005, 02:51 PM (40 of 51)
Yay! The lesson is up...now if it were only Saturday. :( Hey maybe I won't be sleepy tonight and I can sew.  Diana |
User: Writer
Member since: 01-16-2001 Total posts: 184
|
From: Timmel Fabrics
Date: 04-04-2005, 03:22 PM (41 of 51)
|
Well, Diana, good thing it isn't Saturday. Dont' start yet. The notes aren't there, only the diagrams. There are 8 pages of notes to accompany those diagrams. I have emailed Mary, the diagrams should be scattered throughout all the text like the other lessons. So don't start yet, there are lots of instructions to go with those pictures. Julie
Julie, Timmel Fabrics
|
User: Timmel Fabrics
Member since: 06-09-2000 Total posts: 38 |
From: Writer
Date: 04-04-2005, 03:58 PM (42 of 51)
 Whew! Just in time Julie. I raced through editing so I could go play upstairs in my sewing room. So now I'll work on Joanne's quilt block instead. Thanks, Diana |
User: Writer
Member since: 01-16-2001 Total posts: 184
|
From: Timmel Fabrics
Date: 04-04-2005, 04:30 PM (43 of 51)
|
I'm sure that Mary will have the text up by tomorrow. The diagrams by themselves don't tell the whole story, in fact they leave a whole lot out! Julie
Julie, Timmel Fabrics
|
User: Timmel Fabrics
Member since: 06-09-2000 Total posts: 38 |
From: Just Duckee
Date: 04-07-2005, 06:08 PM (44 of 51)
| I have a pants pattern that i made in a Peggy Sagers pants fitting seminar and I use it for making all types of pants. Most of the techniques she taught are similar or the same as the ones in the instructions Mary has posted in the pants fitting lessons. Good stuff.. |
User: Just Duckee
Member since: 05-29-2002 Total posts: 10 |
From: Timmel Fabrics
Date: 04-07-2005, 06:46 PM (45 of 51)
|
Lucky you to have taken a workshop with Peggy. I think she is excellent at her specialty which is fitting. If anyone has an opportunity to take a class with Peggy, by all means don't miss it. This is one lady who really knows her stuff. Julie
Julie, Timmel Fabrics
|
User: Timmel Fabrics
Member since: 06-09-2000 Total posts: 38 |
From: deebar
Date: 04-07-2005, 07:46 PM (46 of 51)
|
Sorry to interupt, but is there any way to get the first few lessons? I would like to catch up, I've tried the one-seam pants (Louise Cutting) and only came close, so its time to try again. Thanks Deebar |
User: deebar
Member since: 09-03-2004 Total posts: 1 |
From: Timmel Fabrics
Date: 04-07-2005, 07:50 PM (47 of 51)
|
I think if you click on the lesson on the home page, there is a link to the previous lesson at the bottom. Then there should be a link at the bottom of that lesson to the previous one. I will ask Mary if she can put them all together somewhere clear. Julie
Julie, Timmel Fabrics
|
User: Timmel Fabrics
Member since: 06-09-2000 Total posts: 38 |
From: Writer
Date: 05-02-2005, 09:15 AM (48 of 51)
|
I'm a little late but I finished fitting the muslin yesterday. I think it's right. I still have to put in the zipper and that's something I'm not very good at. Front zipper with a fly! And then the waistband. I can tell that even if these aren't a perfect fit they are closer than I've ever had before! Thanks Julie, Diana |
User: Writer
Member since: 01-16-2001 Total posts: 184
|
From: Timmel Fabrics
Date: 05-02-2005, 09:59 AM (49 of 51)
|
That's great, Diana. This week I will start the lessons on construction details. We will begin with two types of pockets that are good for pants. If you have any questions about fitting your muslin, don't hesitate to ask. I will try to answer you, and if I can't, I will find someone who can. Julie
Julie, Timmel Fabrics
|
User: Timmel Fabrics
Member since: 06-09-2000 Total posts: 38 |
From: Writer
Date: 05-02-2005, 11:13 AM (50 of 51)
|
Thanks Julie, I really appreicate the tiime you've taken to produce these lessons. Diana |
User: Writer
Member since: 01-16-2001 Total posts: 184
|
From: MaryW
Date: 05-02-2005, 12:08 PM (51 of 51)
|
Julie spends hours on these lessons, I think they are as good as anything else available online.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
|
Visit Sew What’s Up for the latest sewing and quilting tips and discussions.
This page was originally located on Sew What’s New (www.sew-whats-new.com) at http://www.sew-whats-new.com/vb/archive/index.php/t-15130.html
Sew What’s Up is hosted by ZenSoft