From: ivorytklr
Date: 02-25-2005, 03:50 PM (1 of 16)
How old is too old for sewing thread? I'm cleaning out and I've got thread that I know is 20 years old! Also, I found the forum thread that talked about Coats and Clark being bad for the machines. When did that start? I've been buying Guterman and Metrozene (are either of those spelled right?) for years and years whenever I could, but some C&C has slipped in there, too. Not much of anything has come in over the past 10-12 years, though. I took a sewing break and am just now getting back into it - trying to make pants. Yuck! During that break I gained 40 pounds and did some shape shifting. What a chore! I've been working on this since November and almost have them right, but still I'm anxiously awaiting the next pants lesson. Wanda in Alabama |
User: ivorytklr
Member since: 02-25-2005 Total posts: 2 |
From: oklahomanana
Date: 02-25-2005, 06:56 PM (2 of 16)
where is the thread about the Coats and Clark thread being bad! OOPS I am in trouble then~ I have used that for years! I pull on thread and if it breaks easily, I pitch it. Otherwise, I keep it. But this is me and my thread, I don;t know what the length of life is for them. Who knows, I could be using dead thread! LOL~~~~~~~~~~ Hope others respond to this, I would like to know the answer to this as well~ Good Question to ask~ One of the best gifts to give a child/grandchild is your listening ear.
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User: oklahomanana
Member since: 09-07-2004 Total posts: 406 |
From: beachgirl
Date: 02-25-2005, 07:20 PM (3 of 16)
I don't know if there's a time limit on thread, no experation date on my spools. LOL. If it breaks easily when I tug on it ,it's out of here. I know that you don't let the sun get to it, not get dusty or dirty. I have some real old thread on wooden spools for decoration that my GM & Mom had from years ago. It's still good thread. I just won't use it. I think it's more about how it's been stored than anything. Could be wrong on that though. Just test it before you use it. As for Coats & Clarks, I haven't seen anything about it being bad but as a rule I don't use much of it. Reading this I don't think I'm much help. I think just testing the thread & if in doubt don't use it except maybe for basteing something. |
User: beachgirl
Member since: 08-31-2004 Total posts: 615 |
From: paroper
Date: 02-25-2005, 07:29 PM (4 of 16)
The Gutterman and Metrose (hope those are spelled correctly) threads are considered to be fine sewing thread. I don't know what has happened to Coats and Clark thread. It was used for years as a mainstay, I don't know if the methods of mfg thread have changed or if the threads just don't have as long a fiber as Gut. and Met. threads. I know that those brands are known for their long fiber (which you want). I know that the old store brands of thread were never that great and it is said that if you have "nuclear thread" you should pitch it. (Those are the threads that have the little six holes in the end where every other one is covered and look like the nuclear symbol.) Some of the older threads were thin cotton, some were cotton wrapped with poly, and then there were spun poly threads that were considered to be the better threads. We used to test our tension in the 1970's with the C&C cotton threads because they were not that good. If the threads popped on the bottom, the bottom thread was too tight, if they popped on the top, the top was too tight, but if the thread was balanced, they both popped or both did not pop at all. This isn't a bad way to test your tension.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: HeyJudee
Date: 02-25-2005, 08:09 PM (5 of 16)
I don't know about Coats and Clarks but some quilters that I have talked to alway say that you should use up your thread - don't stock pile - and I think they say that it will only be good for a couple of years (???). Here is a site I found that gives some storage hints for decorative threads http://www.threadpro.com/Hints.htm. Also, I have a book (All about Machine Arts Decorative Techniques from A to Z) that suggests storing thread in the freezer to extend the life of the thread. Another para in the book is "If you are using older cotton thread that breaks while you are sewing, it has probably dried out. You may be able to re-moisturize it either by spritzing the thread with water so it can re-absorb moisture or putting it into the refrigerator where it can pick up moisture. Be sure thread is dry and at room temperature before using. For thread that just can't be used in the machine, use it to make thread and ribbon scarfs (reference to another page in the book) or tassels." TTFN from
Judy |
User: HeyJudee
Member since: 01-25-2005 Total posts: 1366 |
From: ivorytklr
Date: 02-25-2005, 10:16 PM (6 of 16)
Here's the link to the thread about thread. The one about Coats and Clark - or is it J.P. Coats - not being good for our machines. http://swn-archive.sew-whats-up.com/t-13213.html Wanda in Alabama |
User: ivorytklr
Member since: 02-25-2005 Total posts: 2 |
From: Sancin
Date: 02-26-2005, 03:58 AM (7 of 16)
I went to the previous article about Coats thread. I had the same problem with my machine (Elna) jamming and having to take it in. I found a new repair man and was informed the problem was not the thread but the way the thread come off the spool. My older Elna machine thread holder had a vertical thread holder and I learned to hate Guterman thread with it. My new machine has a horizontal thread holder requiring a disc to hold the thread on the pin. I also have a removable vertical thread holder to use when using 2 threads. As soon as I started to put my Coats thread on the vertical thread holder I stopped my machine jabs. I use the horizontal thread holder for threads that are on the long thing rods (like Gutterman and Metz) and also have no problems. I like the texture and feel of Coats supersheen which I grew up on and the Metz. I also like the fact that Coats cotton has a polyester core making it strong as well as having the softer effects of cotton. In reality, my choice usually comes down to colour matches and what is on sale.
*~*~*~* Nancy*~*~*~* " I try to take one day at a time - but sometimes several days attack me at once."
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User: Sancin
Member since: 02-13-2005 Total posts: 895 |
From: paroper
Date: 02-26-2005, 07:41 AM (8 of 16)
The rule of thumb is that if the thread crosses itself in "x" designs like most European (and many modern American) threads, the spool needs to lay horizontally. If the thread is wrapped around the spool like the old fashioned threads, it needs to stand up on vertically. I had never seen this done but my dealer's mom, who used to own the shop and was a home ec teacher will put threads that cross themselves and have a large base horizonally on the machine so the large base of the spool faces left toward the take up lever. I haven't seen many large based threads used directly on a machine without a spool rack but she says that the base helps to guide the thread from the spool. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 02-26-2005, 12:33 PM (9 of 16)
I tried C & C on both spool holders on my Janome.. It made no difference .. the Thread still shredded all the cotton wrapping off and then the polyester core part of the thread would break and the cotton part was all caught up in the thread guides in a big wad.. I finally just gathered all the C & C together and put it all in a shoe box and donated it to the craft dept. at a nursing home . (all they do is hand sewing, so it does OK for them.. I had used C & C for years and years till early 90's and then is when the problem started.. I believe they must have lowered their standards for the cotton portion of their thread content..
Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022 |
From: sewerzzzzzz
Date: 02-28-2005, 06:48 PM (10 of 16)
II also like the fact that Coats cotton has a polyester core making it strong as well as having the softer effects of cotton. In reality, my choice usually comes down to colour matches and what is on sale. That's what drew me to the Coats & Clark thread. |
User: sewerzzzzzz
Member since: 02-27-2005 Total posts: 81 |
From: mommydionne
Date: 03-01-2005, 12:41 PM (11 of 16)
I'm not sure why coats and clark has been getting a bad wrap but it was fine in my old Janome but bungs up the new Bernina all the time. The Bernina dealer was anti c&c too but they sold Metrose
Jeanette
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User: mommydionne
Member since: 01-08-2004 Total posts: 838 |
From: paroper
Date: 03-01-2005, 01:07 PM (12 of 16)
It has to do with the length of the thread fibers and how the fibers are joined to make the thread. The European threads have a longer fiber. I was told to use Maxi Lock in my Bernina in 1992 because it had much longer fibers than coats. I have had excellent results with my garments and have had no problems with them "falling apart" assembly nor during wash and repeated wear. I occasionally buy Metrozene or Gutterman. At the time I bought my Bernina in 1992, the European threads were not as prominent as they now are. However, the newer machines demand a lot more out of the threads then the old. When Coats was a more prominent thread in home sewing, we were always told to test the thread. When the thread became old (usually in two years) we were told to toss it because it didn't hold up all that long.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: sewerzzzzzz
Date: 03-04-2005, 11:19 PM (13 of 16)
I just started sewing and happened upon the family stash of threads. Some spools have to be over 30yrs. old. I was trying to do some thread painting or free motion embroidery and I kept ending up with a bird's nest with this one spool of thread that felt coated with wax. I don't know the manufacturer because the spool has no label, label must have fallen off. I think the coating on the thread effected the way the thread was wound on the bobbin because it seemed to unravel easily. I had 1 spool of new Gutterman and I noticed that worked the best, it seemed to be thinner and whether I used it for sewing or embroidery work it was easy to work with. |
User: sewerzzzzzz
Member since: 02-27-2005 Total posts: 81 |
From: mamadus
Date: 03-05-2005, 04:14 PM (14 of 16)
Pam, interesting you were told to use maxilock thread... my BabyLock dealer just told me not to use maxilock, that its not a good quality thread, that its made from lint... its so hard to know who and what to believe sometimes.... you wonder, is it really that such and such a brand is truly not good quality, or is it simply that a particular retailer sells a different brand?? I'd be interested to hear what anyone else has to say or has been told regarding maxilock threads, as I have a fair amount of it... thanks.. MO life is too short, not to explore
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User: mamadus
Member since: 12-31-2004 Total posts: 492 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 03-05-2005, 04:38 PM (15 of 16)
I've been using Maxi-Lock thread on my new serger and have had no problems. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: Hogmami
Date: 03-05-2005, 05:10 PM (16 of 16)
I have a Huseylock from Viking and I use maxi lock thread all the time. In fact that is one of the threads the dealer suggested using.
Carolyn
Michigan |
User: Hogmami
Member since: 09-30-2004 Total posts: 800 |
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