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From: K2Karen
Date: 03-02-2005, 12:59 AM (1 of 5)
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So far so good, but I ran across a question.... Question 1: When I'm transferring the adjustment lines to the pattern, the instructions say to draw a line perpendicular to the grain line and intersecting the crotch point. OK, did that. Then I drew on the sewing lines. I noticed that the line I drew didn't intersect the crotch at the point where the sewing lines met--it was about 1/2" off. I'm guessing that the correct line would be the one that intersected the point of the sewing lines--not the cutting line. Am I right? Question 2: I drew the crotch depth on the front pattern piece as instructed. I'm assuming the front pattern piece is the one we're supposed to adjust first. I actually did draw the same line on the back pattern piece (intersecting the crotch point). The instructions said you don't have to draw it all the way across. Is it OK that the depth measured on the back piece is significantly different that the depth measured on the front? Observation: I've never sewn with Burda patterns before. I was quite surprised when I discovered I needed to ADD 3/4" to the crotch depth. I say surprised because I'm only 5-feet tall. That is 5', 0". I didn't expect to ADD anything! I wonder if this particular pattern was designed to sit slightly below the waist. Thanks for any advice y'all can offer. --K2Karen |
User: K2Karen
Member since: 03-01-2005 Total posts: 4 |
From: MaryW
Date: 03-04-2005, 12:01 PM (2 of 5)
Julie hasn't seen this question, I will drag her over here. 
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
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From: Timmel Fabrics
Date: 03-04-2005, 07:22 PM (3 of 5)
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Hi guys, sorry my email isn't working today and I didn't get the notice that there was a question posted here. I checked earlier today but the question wasn't there then. Sure hope my email gets working soon, the whole system is blocked with password failure, I suspect some hacker has done this to Aliant. Karen, I'm not sure what you mean when you say "sewing lines". The line you mean perpendicular to grain line and intersecting crotch point - this is line 1, right? it helps to call those lines by numbers so we can be sure we are talking about the same ones. If you mean that you drew on the stitching lines, 5/8" in from the cutting lines, and that this line 1 doesn't intersect those at the crotch point, dont' worry about it. It can't be off by much. Re, the crotch depth, does the description on the back of the pattern tell you about where the pants fall in reference to the waist? usually, they will say low rise, or something like that. It is quite possible that the new styling is all low rise and this may have become the standard look in some pant patterns. We take the crotch depth to get some sort of adjustment going on. I had a pant class where we didnt' do this and one short lady had to remove so much later than she lost her pockets totally. Shortening or lengthening the crotch depth is just a starter. The real important one is the crotch length, the total length of that curve from your back waist through the crotch up to your front waist. If the pants don't resemble you there, they can never fit right. When you make up the pants, you will also be adjusting this finally by raising or lowering where you put on the waistband. So what you do now is not the final thing, so dont' worry too much. We just want to get close enough to our measurements to make the fine-tuning easier. Julie Julie, Timmel Fabrics
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User: Timmel Fabrics
Member since: 06-09-2000 Total posts: 38 |
From: K2Karen
Date: 03-04-2005, 11:50 PM (4 of 5)
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Thanks, Julie. Yes, I meant line 1. It is off by over 1/2 of an inch, but ok. And by stitching lines, I mean the 5/8" sewing lines. So, despite my attempts to confuse you, I think we understand each other  The pattern says very little, unfortunately. I've since chatted with some other folks and they say that Burda has a much shorter crotch depth than the Big Guys. Now...for the update. At the beginning of this exercise, I would have told you that I'm not particularly hard to fit. HAH!! I had to make adjustments EVERYWHERE. I did make one fatal mistake. I chose to draw the Burda pattern size 40--since my hip measurement is just over 39. Unfortunately, the Burda 40 is designed for 38" hips. I needed to use Size 42. Whoops. Just for the practice, I didn't retrace. I just made the hip adjustment to fit. The waist was perfect, so I didn't have to adjust there. Since I had the time and the fabric, I went ahead and whipped up a muslin to see how we did. Not bad, not bad at all! I used elastic around my waist and I think I need to take about 1-1/2" off the front, but I knew I needed less fabric in the front. Now I'm going to go back to PMB and see if I can create a pattern that emulates the Burda. I smell perfect pants in my future! Thanks, Julie, for the great lessons. --Karen |
User: K2Karen
Member since: 03-01-2005 Total posts: 4 |
From: Timmel Fabrics
Date: 03-05-2005, 07:29 AM (5 of 5)
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Hey, Karen, what a great post to read first thing in the morning. Congratulations on making up your muslin and getting a reasonable fit first time. You're right, you are well on your way to perfect pants. And going between commercial patterns and PMB sounds like a wonderful combination of resources. Keep us updated on future progress. You have made me want to sew a pair of pants today. Julie
Julie, Timmel Fabrics
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User: Timmel Fabrics
Member since: 06-09-2000 Total posts: 38 |
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