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This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and
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From: abcameo
Date: 03-09-2005, 01:11 PM (1 of 8)
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I just made a super-simple, basic black shift-style dress out of dense micro-pleat fabric. It's done. I tried it on and decided I'd like it longer. The fabric requires no hemming--it doesn't fray and looks perfect with just the cut edge. I'm thinking of adding an extra flounch of the same stuff on the hem to add length and a "kicky" little design element. I recently purchased a ruffler foot and tried to deliberately ruffle or pleat up the fabric and then attach it to the hem. I tried different settings, but it didn't look so great. I'm looking for ideas on what to do to my leftover micro-pleat fabric to turn it into some kind of flounce for the bottom. I also thought of maybe adding black chiffon to the bottom, but that would make it dressier and less utilitarian. I'd welcome any tips on how to perhaps shape (scallops?), ruffle or pleat the fabric to make it look attractive as a flounce, or other design suggestions. Thanks, Amy |
User: abcameo
Member since: 11-02-2004 Total posts: 131 |
From: bunzino
Date: 03-15-2005, 10:13 PM (2 of 8)
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Ab, Why didn't it look good? That will start you in the right direction of what to do? For example, a pleated ruffle sounds like a great idea, so what was wrong w the one you made? Too narrow? Too wide? Pleats too formal for the dress? Get the idea? You can answer your own question this way. nancy |
User: bunzino
Member since: 08-16-2002 Total posts: 119 |
From: abcameo
Date: 03-16-2005, 01:38 PM (3 of 8)
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Hi, Nancy: I've decided what I want to do, now I have to figure out how. Here's what I'm thinking. I hope you can picture what I'm saying and possibly advise me on if my sewing ideas are correct: -I'm going to fold the strip I'm adding on the bottom in 3/4, so that there is a kicky little flounce on top and a second, deeper one underneath. - The strip will be added on about 2" or 3" up on the actual dress. I don't need to add much length. This would add a third layer (the dress itself) to give the flounce some backing. (Is this a good idea or just my imagination?) - I'm going to chalk in the sewing line (where I want to attach the strip) on the dress. - I'm going to baste the folded over strip to the chalk line. - I'm thinking of sewing it on the right side, but underneath the top fold. So the stitching would not show on the dress because it would be hidden underneath the top layer. - As a design element, I would like to add some type of thin black cord at the top where the strip is attached. It could be either a rounded ribbon, even a flat ribbon, or a piping type cord--the type with the flat edge included that normally gets sewn into the seam to turn it into piping. - If I use piping cording, I know I would sew this on at the same time I'm attaching the strip. If it's a ribbon, I think I would add this on after the stip is sewn in. - Here's a question: I already had the sides slit (didn't originally think I was going to need to add anything on to the hem area). If I add a cord, how would I hide the edges or end them on the side seams? Do I need to rip out the stitches I put in to keep the slits open on the seam and sew the cord into the seam or is there some other way to end the cord? I don't think curling it to the underside would look very attractive. Before I start on this, can you see any flaws in my thinking that will ultimately end up ruining my project? I'm trying to figure out the steps logically, but I do lack experience, so perhaps I'm missing some aspect. Do you (or anyone else) have suggestions on a better way of handling this? All ideas welcome. Many thanks, Amy |
User: abcameo
Member since: 11-02-2004 Total posts: 131 |
From: Carol in ME
Date: 03-20-2005, 08:16 AM (4 of 8)
| I like your ideas. Any home dec sewing book can tell you how to end or overlap your piping. Should the piping or flat bias decoration be a different finish from the rest of the fabric, (shiny if the dress is matte, for instance)? |
User: Carol in ME
Member since: 01-27-2003 Total posts: 105 |
From: paroper
Date: 03-21-2005, 09:51 AM (5 of 8)
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If you are brave enough, I might actually cut the piece where you are going to install the higher piece and I would take my first ruffle and hide seam allowances there along with the piping flange. By using the first ruffle, you can cut the second a little longer to make up for seam allowances unless you have enough length with that alteration. If you choose not to cut the dress, you can put your ruffle on top of the fabric with the top extended. That works but is a little less formal. If you try to fold your dress over the ruffle top to hide it though I don't think you'll be very happy because of the bulk under the fold. A couple of small tucks or pleats above the ruffle might be nice. However, what I pictured immediately when I read your first post was a flat doubled piece of texture contrasting fabric about an 3/4 or 1 inch wide set into the seam above your ruffle or ruffles (whichever you choose). I think that either one or two ruffles will look very nice. The second ruffle would (of course) be sewn to the the bottom of the strip from the dress or the dress, as you planned. By the way, no, it is not uncommon to use your dress as a backing for your ruffles. If you apply cording to the top of the dress, yes, just split the side seams and bring the cording through. You don't need to have a large split to do this, just a small opening will work. Then secure the ends of your cord when you sew up the seam. Keep in mind that any seams or tucks you take in your dress will change the line of the garment. If the skirt is straight you won't see much of a change, but if the garment is a-lined, the top will be smaller than the bottom and you may need to make a couple of small adjustments. Also, any seams or tucks will remove twice their amount from the garment. For instance, a 1/4 inch tuck or pleat will take away 1/2 inch from the length. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: abcameo
Date: 03-22-2005, 01:45 PM (6 of 8)
Thanks for the great advice. Oh, Pam, why couldn't you live in Roseville, CA??  I am desperate for a hands-on sewing mentor.So the little edging on piping that goes in the seam allowance is called a "flange?" I didn't know the word. I recently bought Cochenille software for designing knitware (and also sewing), and I see the site offers a CD-Rom of fashion terminology. That would be helpful. Sometimes, you just can't think of the word associated with the particular style detail. The CD is about $40. It will have to wait a while since I'm about to pay to have my website redesigned. As a note, I do wish there was an affordable book on the names of colors. The few I've seen advertised, from Fairchild Publications are way too $$$ textbooks. I haven't found any used ones that are much cheaper. I now use an online DMC/Anchor Floss chart for color names. When you're describing colors for items you are selling on line, you really want to be as accurate as possible so a customer won't be disappointed. Amy http://www.thewearwithall.com |
User: abcameo
Member since: 11-02-2004 Total posts: 131 |
From: paroper
Date: 03-22-2005, 04:15 PM (7 of 8)
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I wish you lived in near Okla City! That would be fun! I would think that probably the best thing you could get would be a color floss chart. You are often very lucky if you can find one with names, numbers AND floss. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: abcameo
Date: 03-23-2005, 01:20 AM (8 of 8)
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Here's a website that has tons of links all relating to color that anyone who needs to describe a color by name should find helpful: http://tx4.us/moacolor.htm Sometimes I look at a color and words just defy me to accurately describe the what it is. It's on the tip of my tongue, but... still, you have to find the name and that's when the DMC/Anchor floss charts online help me out. Mostly, I find I need to describe the hue of gemstones. When I have to describe my knits or garments, then there's the added element of articulating the texture (or stitch) of the fabric... All I can say is, thank goodness I was born into a creative writing family so learned to dig deep to find the words!  Amy |
User: abcameo
Member since: 11-02-2004 Total posts: 131 |
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