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From: LeahRenee
Date: 03-12-2005, 09:25 PM (1 of 7)
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Hi, this is my very first (of many I'm sure) post. I've searched for this term, but I can't find anything about it. My pattern says to transfer the markings by pin and chalk method or tracing paper and wheel. I have no idea what that means. I'm a new sewer, but I watched my mother sew for thousands of hours as a youngster. And I don't think she used either of these methods. I just remember her doing something called "tailor tacks" (I'm not even sure that's what it was called). Looping thread through without knotting it, I think. Help! Thanks, Leah |
User: LeahRenee
Member since: 03-12-2005 Total posts: 7 
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From: Mom of Six
Date: 03-13-2005, 01:31 AM (2 of 7)
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The pin & chalk method is what I use most of the time. You put a pin into the pattern straight through both layers of fabric from the top & then one through the bottom as close as you can get to the one sticking through. Then carefully seperate the two pieces, Wherever there is a pin sticking through the fabric make a mark with chalk. for a beginner I would then take a ruler & connect the dots for things like darts or make arrow lines for pleats. I hope this makes sense it is 1:30 AM here & I couldn't sleep. For the tracing wheel method you can buy tracing wheels & paper at any fabric store & the directions should be on the package. Hope I haven't confused you more! 
Barb
Happiness is having time to sew!! |
User: Mom of Six
Member since: 11-03-2001 Total posts: 1115 
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From: DorothyL
Date: 03-13-2005, 09:33 AM (3 of 7)
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There are also pens in the fabric store like marking pens that leave marks that dissolve easily with water or even just fade away on their own. You'll learn over time and with experimentation what to use when. For instance, you don't want to use the air dissolving pen on something you are coming back to in a day or two. I think most of us use tailor tacks only when nothing else works on the fabric -- to dark and chalk might wear off. They are a good way to mark, just a little more effort. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: LeahRenee
Date: 03-13-2005, 12:06 PM (4 of 7)
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Thank you! Yes now I understand. And those tailor tacks do seem like a lot of extra work. I'm going to buy some chalk today. 
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User: LeahRenee
Member since: 03-12-2005 Total posts: 7
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From: Magot
Date: 03-13-2005, 02:17 PM (5 of 7)
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I always end up rubbing the chalk off, I prefer to use tailors tacks because I find they don't move on me! I tried one of those air dried white pens, I liked it but I put it down and now it has disappeared - must have dried out I suppose.
love and kisses, Jan
Guts-R-Us Cells a Speciality DNA to order. |
User: Magot
Member since: 12-22-2002 Total posts: 3626 
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From: DorothyL
Date: 03-13-2005, 05:54 PM (6 of 7)
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I like the way the air soluble pens warn you not to sign contracts or checks with them. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: paroper
Date: 03-13-2005, 11:49 PM (7 of 7)
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I sometimes use tailors tacks, seldom use the pin and chalk. Most of the time I use the tracing wheel on darts, pin and chalk on pockets. Smaller things I mark at the seamline with a very small clip...like center front and back, tucks and pleats. You MUST remember that the tracing paper is ALWAYS put on the wrong side of the fabric. It is better if the fabric is right side out and the paper goes between the fabric pieces. Your paper should be a color close to the color of the garment but contrast enough that you can see the mark. You MUST be careful on light weight fabric. My high school teacher told us to mark our garments with clear dark lines. On my first lightweight broadcloth blouse, I marked all lines with purple tracing paper. Back then, none of the marks ever washed out...ruined my beautiful fabric. Now the paper isn't as good but you can buy paper that will air erase or wash out. Also, you can buy double sided paper. This is nice because you don't have to apply as much pressure because you only have one layer of paper between the garment layers. I also prefer the smooth wheel instead of the wheel with the "spikes". The "spikes" tear the pattern paper.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
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