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From: DragonLady
Date: 03-16-2005, 05:09 PM (1 of 34)
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I'm thinking about buying the Lutterloh pattern system...but I have some questions. I really want to learn to draft my own patterns -either from my own designs, from photos or by altering patterns I already have to make new looks. I have a few basic skills, but want to learn much, much more. I have some great pattern drafting books, and most of the tools I need. But the instructions get very complicated, and I'm in a busy household. Instructions like "Subtract 3/8" from half of line A-D and square with line E-FF at an angle" kinda leave me pulling out my hair after a few short minutes. So...I was looking at this system. But I'm getting the impression that it's only good for copying and grading the patterns they've included. I'm not sure they're same system can be used to change patterns from other companies, or to help me learn how to draft an original pattern. Has anyone that's familiar with this system learned to draft with it? "No more twist! No more twist!"
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User: DragonLady
Member since: 11-10-2004 Total posts: 152 
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From: Sailorliz
Date: 03-17-2005, 07:49 AM (2 of 34)
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DragonLady, I have never drafted a pattern for clothing from scratch. I have altered their patterns and also have "combined" different designs from different patterns (theirs) to come up with my own pattern. The only type of pattern drafting from scratch I have done was not for clothing. If you are interested in this system and want to try before you buy, they do 1/2 day seminars (usually in hotel meeting rooms) around the country. That is how I was introduced to the system many years ago. Happy sewing/quilting/crafting
Liz Visit my photo page http://new.photos.yahoo.com/sailorlizmi/albums |
User: Sailorliz
Member since: 07-20-2004 Total posts: 386 
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From: DragonLady
Date: 03-17-2005, 10:55 AM (3 of 34)
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Thanks for your reply, Sailorliz. Unfortunatly, I can't attend any seminars or classes at this time.... Perhaps someone could point me at a good picture of one of the patterns? That might help me understand how the system works well enough to figure out if it will do what I want it to do? I can see from the photos I've seen that each pattern has a system of points around it, which show what needs to be changed to make the right size. But does it explain how much ease is included? Or how to change each piece for different fitting problems? Or is it just a system for enlarging the exact same shape to various sizes without any alteration instructions? "No more twist! No more twist!"
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User: DragonLady
Member since: 11-10-2004 Total posts: 152
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From: Skye
Date: 03-17-2005, 02:51 PM (4 of 34)
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Hi Dragon lady, My neighbour just bought this system but so far hasn't tried it out. It is based on 2 measurements and then you use their patterns to draft your pattern. I went to the demonstration with her and the 3 vests that they drafted for ladies in the audience all who had very different body shapes - seemed to be a good fit when they fitted the pattern drafted to their body. here is a link which might explian it better for you. The demonstrator had on trousers which she had used 2 different pattern style to draft and make. I would be interested in any information about this system too http://www.dressmaking.co.nz/lutt_patterns.htm Have you looked at some of the computer generated systems? wild ginger springs to mind(NAVY) http://www.wildginger.com/ I know that there are other computer based ones too Australian Stitches magazine reviewed them a little while ago, patternreview.com may have reviews too Skye in a rush to get to the gym |
User: Skye
Member since: 09-28-2000 Total posts: 233 |
From: Sailorliz
Date: 03-17-2005, 04:23 PM (5 of 34)
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Or is it just a system for enlarging the exact same shape to various sizes without any alteration instructions? DragonLady, What you said, (above) is correct. It enlarges the shape to fit your measurements, no matter what the quirks. It works for me. I don't have a US website for it. Maybe you can do a google search. Gotta run. 
Happy sewing/quilting/crafting
Liz Visit my photo page http://new.photos.yahoo.com/sailorlizmi/albums |
User: Sailorliz
Member since: 07-20-2004 Total posts: 386
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From: DragonLady
Date: 03-17-2005, 11:31 PM (6 of 34)
Thanks, everybody! I guess the system is a good deal, if you just want a huge collection of interchangeable patterns. But I don't think it will do what I want, so I guess I'll save my money and keep plugging away at learning it the old-fashioned way. 
"No more twist! No more twist!"
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User: DragonLady
Member since: 11-10-2004 Total posts: 152
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From: Carol in ME
Date: 03-19-2005, 08:54 AM (7 of 34)
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The system you mention come up regularly in sewing forums, but it is not drafting a new pattern, just a different way to buy patterns. The pieces are not interchangable, one pattern to the other. There are no instructions, as the system assumes you have sewing knowledge already. I don't know what you are trying to draft, or why you are drafting instead of buying a pattern. I only draft patterns I can't buy (17th century coats for 6'-4", 56" chest men, or 1920's dress, designer has a pic, but no pattern exists above a 32" bust measure, "Mama Rose" is built like Jane Russell) If you already have patterns that fit, many drafting books will tell you how to modify the pattern to add certain details. That is the fun part, for me. I've never taken a course in drafting, just do it through books. It sounds as if that's what you're doing too. It does get easier through repetition, and I do keep a calculator at hand. And I did apologize to my high school algebra and geometry teacher for not paying attention 30 years ago, as those skillls come in mighty handy, now. You'll get there! Carol, who has the equation for calculating the area of a circle penciled in the back of her favorite drafting book |
User: Carol in ME
Member since: 01-27-2003 Total posts: 105 |
From: habanerohutch
Date: 03-25-2005, 09:01 PM (8 of 34)
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Hi, By coincidence, I am giving a demo of Lutterloh at my sdwing club tomorrow morning. We will be making the shorts pattern. Then I will challenge the ladies to make up this pattern and bring the results to next month's mtg for evaluation. The system uses your full bust measurement to set all the waist and above points and your hip measurement for all the below waist points. It works for any size person just as long as your proportions are more or less average, i.e. only if bust cup is about average. Since I have narrow shoulders and an unusually large bust, this does not work at all for me. The neck, shoulders, and armholes come out huge. However, I think the shorts pattern might actually work. That's why I'm using that one for the demo. I do a fair amount of "from scratch" drafting and I agree that most systems are too complicated. The one simple system I have found is Karen Howland's book "Cut to the Fit." Lala Chile Pepper from Texas
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User: habanerohutch
Member since: 07-01-2000 Total posts: 49 |
From: MaryW
Date: 03-26-2005, 06:13 PM (9 of 34)
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Lala, hi, where have you been? Missed your guidance on pattern drafting and alterations.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
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From: DragonLady
Date: 03-26-2005, 09:11 PM (10 of 34)
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I've just purchased some more books about pattern drafting from scratch. I bought an old (1950's) book on eBay that does a good job of explaining the basics, although the step-by-step directions are still hard to follow. Instead of using up tons of paper and fabric learning, I 'borrowed' one of my daughter's Barbie dolls and have been using it to learn. So far, that's working much better. I can just keep tweaking it until I figure out what works, then flatten it out and measure and compare to the directions and am starting to get the idea. Thanks everyone for all your help.
"No more twist! No more twist!"
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User: DragonLady
Member since: 11-10-2004 Total posts: 152
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From: moderncouture
Date: 04-19-2005, 11:52 AM (11 of 34)
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I have been collecting Lutterloh for years and have 1930's thru 2005. There are a few tricks to getting the piatterns to come together for larger busts. I can email you a basic fitting sloper design style they use...whith the bust measurement you make all your markings from the waist up...so if you have a large cup size use your bust measurement from just the measurements at the bottom armhole measurement and any bust darts...now you will use a smaller measurement for the waist and rest of armholes,shoulders and neck...let's say your bust is measured 98, remember they measure up over the shoulder blades, and try using 96 for the other areas I mentioned...I have had great success this way. And it works with princess seams too. Here are web links that has lots of lLutterloh patterns patterns to work from... http://groups.yahoo.com/group/lutterlohpatterns/ http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vintagepatterns/ |
User: moderncouture
Member since: 04-19-2005 Total posts: 1 |
From: MaryW
Date: 04-19-2005, 12:43 PM (12 of 34)
Hello moderncouture and welcome to Sew Whats New. 
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542
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From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 04-19-2005, 07:43 PM (13 of 34)
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Dragon Lady, I have used the Lutterloh and the Dusan Mrak systems, and for what you want , there is ;no contest, you need the Dusan Mrak System.. It gives you a master with points marked with numbers.. You have to have a helper to get your measurements to be accurate.. If you take every measurement and then mark them on the master and then connect the dots (so to speak) you have what amounts to a Basic that fits you perfectly.. Even thru the bust no matter what measurement it is.. Now you can go from there to make the design your own..Or you can stick to the basics, if that is what you want.. I sent that Mary lady an e-mail and I am going to re-order the Dusan Mrak kit because I cannot find mine.. I think it got thrown out when I had a helper to re-organize my sewing room because I could not do it alone..The lutterloh just shows you how to enlarge the pattern with your measurements.. It only uses 2 measurements for everything.. It didn't fit me .. I am too short and wide , I guess..I recently went to a seminar they had, but I went to buy a new French Curve and pattern paper.. They gave you 6 patterns and a video on how to make the pattern pieces.. Only had to pay $5.00 dollars to attend at Hancocks.. Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022 
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From: DragonLady
Date: 04-20-2005, 01:39 AM (14 of 34)
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Thanks for all the great advice! I'll look into the Dusan Mrak system when I get a chance.
"No more twist! No more twist!"
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User: DragonLady
Member since: 11-10-2004 Total posts: 152
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From: zawjit_omar
Date: 05-02-2005, 09:29 AM (15 of 34)
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Hello: I am new at this whole pattern making deal and would be interested to know 3 things. What do you draft your patterns on to. Where do you get what you draft your patterns on to. And finally, How do you get the Mrak system...as I did a search for the system and came up with an accordian player with the same name...lol. I used the stretch and sew stuff when I was 13, but obviously have outgrown that concept and can't find the paper anymore. So I would love to here from everyone... Thanks...Ramia 
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User: zawjit_omar
Member since: 05-01-2005 Total posts: 1 |
From: MaryW
Date: 05-02-2005, 10:52 AM (16 of 34)
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Ramia, hi and welcome to Sew Whats New. That accordion player wasn't much help I guess. I think there was a lady here that had pertinent information on this system. Maybe I can find what you need. MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542
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From: MaryW
Date: 05-02-2005, 12:42 PM (17 of 34)
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I know Dusan Mrak personally. He lives a few blocks away. He has a video to teach you how to use your pattern system. I think it is not expensive. If you give me your e-mail address I will pass it along to him. He is a great guy. We filmed some of his video for him. He started the American Fashion Institute. He sold those world wide. Regards Mary Stevens <email address removed for privacy> MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542
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From: MaryW
Date: 05-02-2005, 12:42 PM (18 of 34)
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I posted the above from an earlier poster. Hope it helps.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542
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From: DragonLady
Date: 05-02-2005, 02:13 PM (19 of 34)
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Hello: I am new at this whole pattern making deal and would be interested to know 3 things. What do you draft your patterns on to. Where do you get what you draft your patterns on to. I've done a lot of pattern altering; usually using newspaper or big sheets of tracing paper. But you can buy big rolls of pattern paper. It comes in 60" widths with a grid of letters and numbers on it to help with making sure pieces will align properly. I've never used it; but intend to buy some if I ever get really serious about drafting a lot of different stuff. I think you can probably buy it on the 'net. A search for pattern paper will probably turn up all kinds of nifty stuff. And if that's too expensive, there are lots of other workable choices -butcher's wrapping paper, the tissue doctors use to cover their exam tables, architect's drafting paper.... If you want a pattern that will hold up for years, use sheets of clear plastic or very thin fabric. I've used old sheets to make permanent pieces for patterns I use and re-use a lot. "No more twist! No more twist!"
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User: DragonLady
Member since: 11-10-2004 Total posts: 152
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From: Kay F in IN
Date: 06-26-2005, 04:11 PM (20 of 34)
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The Lutterloh gives you a drawings of styles ( 1 per page). All is drawn in small scale that you need their little measuring piece that you tape to your measuring tape to turn into a pattern. The Dusan helps you construct your own fitting shell. If I try either again, I am going to add more ease. If any of you are plus sized, please get the book "Sewing For Plus Sizes" by Barbara Deckert. Oops soundlike an ad. Not meant that way. It is just that this book has helped me most. She has a chart showing what the design ease is to be for us gals who get more of us to squish when we sit. Know what I mean? Anyway, these ease measurements help us to be able to move in the clothes we make. Dusan says that his patterns allow a 2 inch ease. Way not enough if you are plus sized which may be why I was unhappy with his system. As I said earlier, I know more now so maybe I should give it a try again. Also, it is almost impossible for me to get measuring help. I have to assume error in some measurements. I do the best I can. Smile. Kay F in IN |
User: Kay F in IN
Member since: 06-09-2005 Total posts: 10 |
From: Aimee S
Date: 06-29-2005, 06:57 PM (21 of 34)
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I love the Lutterloh system. I have a book from each decade and two from teh 40 plus expansion packes they are great and always work. ...well I do have to shorten the legs on one son's pants. They are great and well worth it. The more you disaprove, the more fun I am having!
http://photos.yahoo.com/aimeehs29 |
User: Aimee S
Member since: 02-23-2003 Total posts: 488 
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From: canadian_eh
Date: 07-23-2005, 10:28 PM (22 of 34)
 Hey, Lala...I have the same problem...narrow shoulders and a 3D cup. How can I alter store patterns to fit? What's your secret? I have never taken the Lutterloh course...a friend did years ago. She loaned me her video and I drew out the blouse pattern, following their directions and my bust size. Then I read your post about armholes and necklines being too big. That is exactly the problem I've had making shirts and dresses in the past, and I don't want to try again until I get some advice. help?? |
User: canadian_eh
Member since: 07-23-2005 Total posts: 2 |
From: MaryW
Date: 07-24-2005, 09:58 AM (23 of 34)
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Does this help at all? http://www.sew-whats-new.com/petite-plus/article3/ MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542
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From: RRPillay
Date: 07-25-2005, 11:40 PM (24 of 34)
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Thanks for the link to the petite plus site, Mary. Had never heard of this before, but I'm going to try it. The Dusan Mrak pattern systems are sometimes available on ebay. I bought it a few weeks ago -- haven't had a chance to try it out yet. |
User: RRPillay
Member since: 05-11-2005 Total posts: 4 |
From: canadian_eh
Date: 07-28-2005, 11:09 PM (25 of 34)
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Thanks for the link, Mary. I'm going to try altering one of my store patterns according to that particular article...will let you know how things turn out. Doesn't sound too difficult (I hope). If it does work, I'll be thrilled!
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User: canadian_eh
Member since: 07-23-2005 Total posts: 2 |
From: fronno
Date: 07-29-2005, 03:32 AM (26 of 34)
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Hello Dragonlady, I am terrible sorry for to disappoint you, but when you really want to draw your OWN patterns you have to do the things so as you stated, e.g. take the half of you your waistline and add 1 or 2 centimeters for ease. etc. I really should take the time during the evening for to learn how to draw from skratch, otherwise you always will be dependend of that what has been made by others. With kind regards,
François |
User: fronno
Member since: 04-26-2004 Total posts: 79 
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From: DragonLady
Date: 07-29-2005, 12:37 PM (27 of 34)
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No problem. I've put it all away for now. I'm waiting for a big, flat table that I can dedicate to such projects. Using the dining table is part of the confusion -everytime I have to put it away halfway through the project, I get lost and have to find my place again. What makes perfect sense on Friday night is an intelligible mess on Sunday. Also, I'm collecting more (better) equipment -rulers, squares, etc. I think some of my poor results come from using cheap tools that aren't intended for precision work and just aren't accurate enough. "No more twist! No more twist!"
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User: DragonLady
Member since: 11-10-2004 Total posts: 152
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From: fronno
Date: 07-30-2005, 05:38 PM (28 of 34)
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Also, I'm collecting more (better) equipment -rulers, squares, etc. I think some of my poor results come from using cheap tools that aren't intended for precision work and just aren't accurate enough. That is probably quite correct. In patterndrawing is precision a must. sigghhhh, I have learned that as well.  But now, it is only pleasing that I have become so precised (correctly spelled?), because it gets also in your sewing. 
With kind regards,
François |
User: fronno
Member since: 04-26-2004 Total posts: 79
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From: mommydionne
Date: 08-08-2005, 09:16 PM (29 of 34)
the things you find.... I was cleaning out my sewing stuff (again) and found a video for a sewing seminar I took about 5 years ago in Ohio, it was on the Lutterloh pattern making stuff  I have never really tried the patterns I have 5 to try, but the styles are a tad dated already (big shoulders etc) never know till you try them out though! Jeanette
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User: mommydionne
Member since: 01-08-2004 Total posts: 838 
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From: ccaskey
Date: 10-21-2005, 10:12 PM (30 of 34)
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I just purchased the lutterloh system, and I noticed that on the skirt patterns there is no "dot" at the point of the waist darts. How do I know where to put the point of the dart in a skirt? Thanks! |
User: ccaskey
Member since: 10-21-2005 Total posts: 1 |
From: quidscribis
Date: 10-26-2005, 08:28 AM (31 of 34)
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I'm also new to pattern drafting. Where I live, patterns are simply not available, and to order patterns over the internet, while possible, will result in the patterns tripling in cost or more when shipping and customs are factored in. This is the first I've heard of either the Lutterloh system or Dusan Mrak. I'm looking at learning how to draft patterns from scratch so I can make my own patterns, not depend on this or that and have to adapt. Based on what I'm seeing, it sounds like Dusan Mrak's system would suit that better. How does one get ahold of it or see what it's like to see if it would suit? |
User: quidscribis
Member since: 10-26-2005 Total posts: 16 
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From: prash
Date: 10-26-2005, 03:59 PM (32 of 34)
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Google search for Lutterloh System shows: email <email address removed for privacy> http://www.dressmaking.co.nz/lutt_patterns.htm |
User: prash
Member since: 03-16-2004 Total posts: 11 
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From: MaryW
Date: 10-27-2005, 08:48 AM (33 of 34)
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Quidscribis and Prash, hi and welcome to Sew Whats New.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542
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From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 10-27-2005, 11:23 AM (34 of 34)
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Look back toward the very first of this thread.. A lady named Mary, (not our Mary, owner of this site) had a message and I e-mailed her to get part of Mr. Mrak's system that I did not have.. I don't have time to search for it now. Look for it..
Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022
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