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From: Lil Princess
Date: 03-20-2005, 04:29 AM (1 of 12)
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Hi~ I'm so glad I found this website, thank god. I just finished my first pair of pants, and i feel like i'm all tired out. There was so many "greek" words in there and I spent abt half the time trying to figure out the pictures and what the pattern instruction was trying to tell me. So now, I have a few questions: 1) What is fusion-interfacing? Do I really need them, or are they just for professional? I understand they are some kind of material that bonds to the fabric, but why do we need them? and do u have to purchase a new one for everything u make? 2) how do u fuse certain areas? like..something about interefacing at buttonholes? how do u do that? 2) What is basting? 3) When you buy patterns that are in multi-sizes, what do i do to them? do i cut them out? or do i have to choose one size only? 4) You know how the patterns are printed onto a recyclable paper, right? Do i cut them out and then trace? how do i get the pattern onto the fabric????? 5) Do you know anywhere that will get you the best deal for fabric? I live in BC, Canada. Wow..that's a lot of questions. But it's nice to get it off my chest. I've spend like 2 hrs researching about sewing and when i saw this forum....my thoughts were.."I'm saved." It's really nice to read other's advices and problems, b/c most of us are probably having the same problems. Thanx for reading, and hope you can help me! Have a nice day! |
User: Lil Princess
Member since: 03-20-2005 Total posts: 13 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 03-20-2005, 08:24 AM (2 of 12)
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Here are some answers -- I would say you need to interface when the pattern calls for it -- and sometimes when it doesn't. Interfacing just reinforces and stiffens the fabric a little. You use it in collars, cuffs, under front and neck facings, in kick pleats -- sometimes the whole garment is interfaced to change the drape. You can get it fusible or not. I usually use fusible, but not always. One trick is to fuse the interfacing to the fabric before you cut the piece, That way you don't have to worry if it is cut exactly the same size or if the interfacing will shrink up the fabric. I shrink mine a bit with steam and it seems to work but I wash in cool water. Other people soak theirs in hot water and shrink in the drier. To fuse under button holes, it helps to do it before the garment is constructed. Basting is when you hand sew, machine sew with long stitches or even pin baste to hold the garment together while you sew it. Some people trace patterns in different sizes when they buy them. I cut around the new pattern pieces the first time I use them and pin them down then cut on the lines. The next time I use the pattern I pin the pieces down and cut around them. I get a straighter cut with a rotary cutter. Sometimes I use weights -- something heavy set on the fabric to hold it in place while you cut. Some people only use weights. I tend to pin much more than I have to. I can't help you get the best deals for fabric in Canada. I will say there are a lot of sources so always keep your credit card handy cause you never know when you will find something you have to have. Everyone does things differently so you will probably get a lot of different answers and have to experiment until you find what works for you. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: MartySews
Date: 03-20-2005, 09:26 AM (3 of 12)
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To add to what has previously been said, to know what size pattern to use, you have to take good measurements. The key measurement are your shoulders, bust, waist, hips, sleeve length, back neck length, leg length. This is the starting point to determine your pattern size. Get a friend to help you take your measurements, write them down and then compare them with the pattern measurements. Most commercial patterns have to be adjusted for one's figure shape. DON'T GO BY YOUR READY TO WEAR SIZE. It might be wise for you to check out a book on fitting from your local library and understand the fitting concepts before beginning to sew. Some of the books that I recommend are "Fit for Real People" and "Fast Fit". Other books on sewing that I recommend are "The Essential Guide to Sewing" and any of the "Singer Sewing Library" books on different topics. Hope this helps. Happy Stitching! Marty 
It takes one moment to change a life.
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User: MartySews
Member since: 02-23-2003 Total posts: 504 
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From: Sparky
Date: 03-20-2005, 11:11 AM (4 of 12)
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1) What is fusion-interfacing? Do I really need them, or are they just for professional? I understand they are some kind of material that bonds to the fabric, but why do we need them? and do u have to purchase a new one for everything u make? Interfacing is used to make your fabric stiffer. In the olden days (when I was in high school) interfacing had to be sewn in. Fusable interfacing is a newer innovation, and, in my opinion, it makes things a LOT simpler. Interfacing comes in a variety of weights. You should use what the pattern calls for, but a lot of times the pattern isn't specific, because what weight interfacing you choose depends on how heavy your fabric is to begin with. If you're working with a very thin soft fabric you'll want some very light soft interfacing. If you don't know what kind to buy, you can ask advice from the sales clerk. Some of the people who work in fabric stores don't know beans about sewing, but some do, and sometimes they can give you good advice. It never hurts to ask. When you're cutting out your pattern, you'll see arrows that should be alligned with the straight grain of the fabric. You have to line these arrows up so that they're parallel to the selvedges (woven edges) of the fabric. This is very important! If you don't do this, your garment won't hang right. But interfacing isn't woven. It has no grain. You don't have to position your pattern pieces in any special way - you can just cut it any way you can to have the least amount of waste. If you buy it by the yard, buy the amount your pattern calls for. If you buy it pre-packaged, you might save money but only if you will use it again. If you keep sewing, you'll use it sooner or later. Interfacing is sold by the yard, but it is often also sold in pre-measured packages. You can keep what's left over and use it the next time, unless you need a different weight. 2) how do u fuse certain areas? like..something about interefacing at buttonholes? how do u do that? Your pattern sould have instructions, but I agree with Dorothy that it's easiest to do this before you cut the piece out. For example, let's say you're going to use interfacing on a collar. If you were using non-fusable interfacing, you'd cut out your collar with the rest of your garment, take the same pattern piece, and cut out a collar from your interfacing. Then you'd sew the interfacing to the collar with a 1/4 inch seam allowance, then you'd trim off the interfacing back to the stitches. With fusable interfacing, I'd probably still lay out my collar with the rest of my pattern, but instead of cutting carefully around the edges of the collar pattern-piece, I'd cut out a relatively big area extending an inch or so around the edges. Then I'd cut out a slightly smaller piece of interfacing, fuse it, then pin my collar pattern-piece and cut it out. If you need to put interfacing on only PART of a piece though, like for buttonholes, that can be trickier. Your buttonholes probably go on the the front of your blouse - not on a separate piece. You won't want to have interfacing on the whole front of the blouse - only on the part where the buttonholes go. Your pattern will probably have a pattern-piece for the interfacing. Use it to cut out the interfacing and line the cut interfacing up with your blouse-front piece. Trim it around the edges if you have to, and be careful that the edges of the interfacing aren't extending over the edges of your fabric, then fuse. 2) What is basting? Basting is temporary sewing. You will use it to hold something in place while you sew, then you'll take the basting out. If you pattern calls for machine basting, use your longest stitch. If if calls for hand basting, you'll want to use fairly big stitches but NOT inch-long stitches. It is a good idea to use a contrasting color thread for hand basting, since you'll be taking it out anyway. This makes it easier to see. 3) When you buy patterns that are in multi-sizes, what do i do to them? do i cut them out? or do i have to choose one size only? Most patterns come in more than one size, but it's impossible to use more than one. You destroy the larger sizes when you cut out the smaller ones, and you may even have to cut across part of the smaller patterns when you're cutting out the larger one. It's possible to trace the pattern onto another sheet of paper, but, in my opinion, this is more trouble than it's worth. Unless your pattern is something rare or really expensive, if you want to make the same garment in two sizes, buy two patterns. You will have to cut out the pattern pieces before you start. First, you'll refer to your instruction sheet and figure out which pieces you need. Most patterns include patterns for several garments, and you'll only be making one garment at a time, so you'll have to pick out the pieces for THAT garment. I usually cut these pieces out of the paper sheet, but not cutting on the lines, then pin them in place and cut on the lines as I'm cutting the fabric. You might find it helpful to trace around the cutting lines for the size you're making with a colored pencil first (on the paper), so that you don't get confused while cutting and start cutting on the wrong line. Here's another tip - I just started doing this. Patterns tend to come out of the package really wrinkled and it can be hard to get them to lie flat. If you take a moment to press them with a warm iron (no steam!), they'll really flatten out and be much easier to work with. It's hard enough figuring all this stuff out. You don't need to be struggling with a lumpy pattern too. 4) You know how the patterns are printed onto a recyclable paper, right? Do i cut them out and then trace? how do i get the pattern onto the fabric????? You pin the pattern to the fabric, then cut around the edges. To use the pattern again, you pin the pattern to the fabric and cut around the edges again. Sometimes, though, you'll run into situations where you have to destroy part of the pattern. For example, say you're making a blouse. You can make this blouse with a round neckline or a V-neck. The pattern may give you two different pieces, one to use for a round neck and one to use for a V-neck. But it may have only one piece and if you make the V-neck you have to cut off the part that shows where to cut for the round neck. Now, if you're making the V-neck and you think you might want to make the round neck another time, you won't want to have to buy another pattern. Or maybe you're making a skirt and you have a choice of making it short or long. If you cut the hem where it's indicated for the short skirt you'll be cutting off the bottom of what you need for the long skirt. In cases like that, you'll have to get a little bit creative. You may find that you can fold the pattern instead of cutting parts off, or you may want to trace parts of the pattern so you can keep the original pieces intact. Or, if nothing else, you can save the pieces you cut off so you can tape them back together again later. Don't cut out things like darts - mark those on your fabric with chalk, or a marking pen made for marking on fabric. Most patterns have little diamond shapes along the edges. You're supposed to cut these out and use them to line up the different pieces. I never cut them out, but it's a good idea to mark them somehow, especially while you're just learning. Rotary cutters and weights are another option. I think rotary cutters are mostly for quilters. They're useful for cutting straight lines, but not a lot of good for cutting curves. I find them pretty useless for cutting clothing pieces. The trick to cutting out clothing (or anything!) is to keep the fabric lying as flat as you can while you cut. When you lift it, the line you're cutting on can get distorted, but you can't get the scissors under the fabric without lifting it a bit. Be sure you're using dressmaker's shears. These have the handle bent so as to keep the fabric as flat as possible while you cut. It just takes practice. You'll get it. 5) Do you know anywhere that will get you the best deal for fabric? I live in BC, Canada. I think the only person who could answer that would be someone in BC, Canada. Shop around. Watch for sales. If your favorite fabric store has a mailing list, sign up. Maybe they'll send you coupons in the mail. Ask your friends. Ask other people who sew. Sparky
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User: Sparky
Member since: 03-13-2005 Total posts: 94 |
From: blessedmommyuv3
Date: 03-20-2005, 01:10 PM (5 of 12)
www.wazoodle.com is an online  fabric store. It has gotten very good reviews on a pattern website for having good prices and good quality. You might take a peek there HTH! Jen in CA PS: I just bought "Fit for Real People" and "Pants for Real People", and they are both fantastic books! Very informative, and with step by step illustrations. |
User: blessedmommyuv3
Member since: 05-18-2004 Total posts: 263 
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From: Lil Princess
Date: 03-20-2005, 02:17 PM (6 of 12)
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wow~ u guys are just wonderful! blessedmommyuv3, Sparky, MartySews, and DorothyL! All I had to do was to go to sleep and wake up to all these wonderful advices! I've learned a lot and I can't wait to get started now! hehe. I'm understanding what fusing is now, so i'll pop by the fabric store sometime today and buy some interfacing clothes. You know, when I first started sewing, i didn't know you have to learn so many things and that sewing is more than just following the pattern and making it. I'll post some pictures up of some of the work i do! ^-^ thanx a lot, guys. Eekz..I just realized one more question..there's this thing called something grain with an arrow pointing...what exactly is that?  sorri!Thanks again! Lil Princess |
User: Lil Princess
Member since: 03-20-2005 Total posts: 13 |
From: Chrysantha
Date: 03-20-2005, 03:11 PM (7 of 12)
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The grain arrow is for making sure the PATTERN is laid correctly with the GRAIN of the fabric. <---> can be laid on either way depending on what your fabric is like. (usually cottons, wovens arrow is laid on the long way, NOT selvege to selvege (side ends of the fabric). Try and make sure the fabric is STRAIGHT to begin with. (you can usually tell by stretching it between your hands (not too far though). Lay it down, put your hands on top, push out to the sides, if the fabric stretches STRAIGHT it's ok, if it goes to either side, straighten it out. Chrys
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User: Chrysantha
Member since: 09-06-2002 Total posts: 2414 
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From: Sancin
Date: 03-20-2005, 05:24 PM (8 of 12)
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[QUOTE=Lil Princess]? 5) Do you know anywhere that will get you the best deal for fabric? I live in BC, Canada. Welcome Lil Princess - this is certainly the site to get answers, especially about sewing. I live in Northern BC. Where are you in BC? Contact me off the list and I may be able to give you specific information about where to buy fabric. Sancin *~*~*~* Nancy*~*~*~* " I try to take one day at a time - but sometimes several days attack me at once."
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User: Sancin
Member since: 02-13-2005 Total posts: 895 
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From: Sparky
Date: 03-20-2005, 07:05 PM (9 of 12)
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wow~ u guys are just wonderful! blessedmommyuv3, Sparky, MartySews, and DorothyL! All I had to do was to go to sleep and wake up to all these wonderful advices! I've learned a lot and I can't wait to get started now! hehe. I'm understanding what fusing is now, so i'll pop by the fabric store sometime today and buy some interfacing clothes. You know, when I first started sewing, i didn't know you have to learn so many things and that sewing is more than just following the pattern and making it. I'll post some pictures up of some of the work i do! ^-^ thanx a lot, guys. Eekz..I just realized one more question..there's this thing called something grain with an arrow pointing...what exactly is that? sorri!Thanks again! Lil Princess Actually, Princess, I already sort of answered this when I said: When you're cutting out your pattern, you'll see arrows that should be alligned with the straight grain of the fabric. You have to line these arrows up so that they're parallel to the selvedges (woven edges) of the fabric. This is very important! If you don't do this, your garment won't hang right. But interfacing isn't woven. It has no grain. But it bears repeating. The arrow indicates "straight grain of the fabric," and you make sure you're doing this by lining the arrow up parallel to the edges. Be sure your fabric's straight first, like Chrysantha said. When I took sewing in high school, my teacher made us use a yardstick to draw a line extending the arrow as long as we could make it, then measure from each end of the line to the edge of the fabric. We had to make sure they were exactly the same distance from the edge. Eyeballing it wasn't good enough. Sometimes I still do this - sometimes I don't. Sparky
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User: Sparky
Member since: 03-13-2005 Total posts: 94 |
From: AndreaSews
Date: 03-20-2005, 09:03 PM (10 of 12)
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I just finished my first pair of pants, and i feel like i'm all tired out. There was so many "greek" words in there and I spent abt half the time trying to figure out the pictures and what the pattern instruction was trying to tell me. Ah, well then you're on the right track! Those first few projects are about getting the lingo and a handful of basic techniques, and it's tough to do on your own. Way to work through it! Keep it up, and as you go along, you'll just keep building on what you've learned so far. That's what the rest of us do! Andrea
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User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005 Total posts: 1007 
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From: paroper
Date: 03-21-2005, 09:11 AM (11 of 12)
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The steps I follow when cutting on the straight of grain is that I lay my pattern in a position I think will fit on my fabric and I pin at one end of the arrow and carefully measure down to the fabric edge or fold (this only works if your fabric is folded equally and the selvages or edges are touching). Then I go to the other end of the arrow and measure UP from the fold to the arrow, pivoting the pattern on the previous pin. Then I pin the second arrow and remeasure to make sure the measurment is right. (Yes, I have done this to nearly every straight of grain for 40 years). Smooth your pattern piece to the material. Then "spot pin" the pattern so that one part of the pattern is not completely pinned in place before you have placed a few pins in the pattern to anchor it. This keeps the pattern from creeping or bunching up in one area. Once you have placed a few pins around the pattern to anchor it, go back and fill in with enough pins to hold it while you cut. A word about pinning and cutting. Pin should be placed starting from the inside of the pattern to the edge. This pushes any extra fullness out of the pattern and allows the pattern to lay flat. If you pin from the edge to the inside, you may push your pattern in as you lay it and cut it smaller than anticipated (this can be a large amount). If you lay your pins so that they are running up and down the edge of the pattern, you may also change the shape/size of your pattern. It is best to lay your entire pattern out before you cut. One major advantage to this is to make sure that you have enough fabric. However, pattern companies build in excess so if you follow the cutting directions in the envelope and have bought the amount recommended for your size you should be fine. If you don't have enough space to lay your entire fabric out (and few of us do for most patterns), it is better to cut your pattern as you go than to roll the pattern. If you cannot, then fold the pinned portion, don't roll. The wider the fold, the better. If you roll and then unroll you'll find fabric buldges under your fabric and the edges and ends will not be as straight. I prefer to cut with scissors. One bad thing is that is the way I way taught and I tend not to change something comfortable. However, I have much more control over scissors and I seem to cut straighter. The exception is when I am cutting long straight strips of something like curtains and I can place my rotary cutter against a ruler. If you are using dressmaker scissors (and I highly recommend them..of any brand). You will see that the scissors have handles, one larger than the other. Your thumb goes through the larger handle. The slope of that handle should get larger toward your hand. This is important because scissors are sold right and left handed. You will also notice that the scissors are bent. The bend is to allow you to lay your scissors down against the cutting table when you cut your pattern out. You do NOT lift your pattern to cut, this makes a terribly inaccurate cut, affecting the sizing, it may even make one pattern size smaller than the other. Dressmaker scissors come in sizes like 6, 8 or 10. The size of your scissors depends on personal choice. I usually use a medium scissor unless I am cutting something very straight. The larger the scissor, the faster you cut because you are cutting a larger area at a time but are a little more difficult to handle in fine areas. The larger scissors are noticably heavier. It is better not to cut any paper with your scissors. My home ec teacher made us trim our patterns to keep our scissors sharp, but if I lay a pattern piece with excess on it I don't generally cut the paper pattern piece. If I cut the paper away from the fabric, I always use paper scissors and I have those marked and handy in my cutting area. Every little bit of paper you avoid when cutting keeps your scissors a little sharper. It is worth the investment to have your scissors professionally sharpened when they need to be done. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Lil Princess
Date: 03-21-2005, 02:31 PM (12 of 12)
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Thanks for answering all my questions! As I'm figuring what each things mean, sewing becomes easier and easier each time! Again, thanx for helping out, guys! Have a nice day! |
User: Lil Princess
Member since: 03-20-2005 Total posts: 13 |
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