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From: Selene
Date: 03-20-2005, 07:33 AM (1 of 9)
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In almost all directions I read about applying an invisible zipper it indicates that the top stop of the zipper should be placed 3/4" down from the garment edge; does this include seamline? For example, in a skirt, would it stop at this distance from the waistband or from the edge including seamline? If it is from the waistband it would cause a gap between the end of the zipper and the beginning of the waistband, wouldn't it? Also, I have a store-bought skirt with an invisible zipper, and waistband, and the zipper goes all the way up to the end of the waistband, leaving no gap for buttons, etc, and there being no need to over/underlap for these to be inserted as it already closes all up. I like this finish, I think it's neat. How can I do this myself? When do I apply the zipper, and what do I do about the waistband? I've found no instructions for this kind of zipper application. Thanks. Selene 
Selene
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User: Selene
Member since: 03-03-2004 Total posts: 71 
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From: paroper
Date: 03-21-2005, 08:40 AM (2 of 9)
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You would count your seam allowance in that 3/4 inch. They are just giving you clearance so that when you sew your needle will clear the zipper. The standard is to put a hook at the top of a dress zipper but an eigth of an inch isn't a whole lot to worry about when you are talking about a 5/8 inch seam allowance. Following your pattern instructions you would insert the zipper at the same step given in the pattern. They are much easier to install (even with a standard zipper foot) and look very nice. Expect for the method of installation, you treat the zipper the same as a set-in zipper. Do you have an invisible zipper foot or do you need directions to use a regular foot?
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Selene
Date: 03-22-2005, 07:33 AM (3 of 9)
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Thanks a lot pam! Yes I do have an invisible zipper foot, that's ok. I didn't know that you could also put them in with a regular zipper foot. The other thing I wanted to know is how I would install it in a skirt with a waistband, where I want to have the zipper all the way up with no additional closure. Do I put it in before or after the waistband? Selene
Selene
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User: Selene
Member since: 03-03-2004 Total posts: 71
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From: paroper
Date: 03-22-2005, 07:43 AM (4 of 9)
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Selene, I try not to give any bad habits on the boards, but since you really want to know. I just move the zipper up to the top enough that the teeth will be caught in the seamline. When you trim the zipper and the seam at the top will hold it in place and keep the pull from coming off (be SURE you catch the zipper when you sew that seam). If you don't feel secure that the zipper pull won't come out, you can bar tack on the waistband side of the seam (that is just in this case hand sew several times through the very top of the zipper) so that it has a zipper stop. The biggest problem is getting the zipper curled right when you sew across it. When you sew across, just let the zipper curl naturally and then enclose that in your seam. For the very best results, you always apply your zipper (in anything) while your garment is flat. It is one of the very first things you put in. Then you construct your skirt, including the waistband or your neckline fackings and collars on a dress. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: EmiLee
Date: 03-22-2005, 07:48 PM (5 of 9)
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Pam, A follow-up question about placement of the invisible zipper, if you don't mind. I have some fabric which I decided to use for a skirt, instead of the dress for which I had already bought the invisible zipper. Is it possible to use a zipper that is too long by placing the bottom where it should end and then cutting off the excess at the top after it has been securely sewn in? (I know I would need to make sure the zipper tab was below the cutoff point before doing so. Will the zipper stay zipped if I do this? Thanks. |
User: EmiLee
Member since: 03-22-2005 Total posts: 4 |
From: paroper
Date: 03-22-2005, 07:58 PM (6 of 9)
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There is no problem about doing that at all esp if you want the zipper to extend under the waistband. Be sure and follow the directions with your invisible zipper foot. I use a regular zipper foot so I have to use a slightly longer zipper than the zipper opening (about 1 1/2 inches) to that the tab extends below my regular skirt opening. Since I don't use an invisible zipper foot, I don't know if that is necessarily when using the invisible zipper foot (I haven't used one in about 30 years...I guess I have a short memory). The one thing about placing your zipper is to make sure that it is down exactly the same amount on both sides. The easy way to do that is to make sure that the zipper is closed when you place the zipper on the fabric (then you can open it if you want). If it is not even across, you'll have a twist in your zipper opening. Also REMBEMBER to stitch across the zipper at the top so that the zipper pull doesn't pull off.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: EmiLee
Date: 03-22-2005, 08:01 PM (7 of 9)
| Wow! That was a quick reply, Pam. Thanks so much. |
User: EmiLee
Member since: 03-22-2005 Total posts: 4 |
From: Selene
Date: 03-27-2005, 06:33 AM (8 of 9)
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Thanks a lot Pam, I've tried that out and it works great!!
Selene
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User: Selene
Member since: 03-03-2004 Total posts: 71
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From: paroper
Date: 03-27-2005, 08:19 AM (9 of 9)
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Great! Thanks for the feedback!
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
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