Sew, What's Up

Sew What’s Up Presents

The Sew What’s New Archive

This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was retired in August 2007. It is being provided by “Sew What’s Up,” which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: Music Mom
Date: 03-27-2005, 02:39 PM (1 of 22)
How do you do a rolled hem Also do you need to use special thread? I will be sewing on sheer-like material. Music Mom
User: Music Mom
Member since: 03-27-2005
Total posts: 1
From: paroper
Date: 03-27-2005, 03:53 PM (2 of 22)
I've never used special thread. The easy way to make a rolled hem is with a special foot. If you have one of those, you probably need directions (if you have never used it). If you do not have a special foot, the easy way to do a rolled hem is to press under 1/4 inch and then press again 1/4 inch. This incases your raw edge within the hem and you just sew at the folded edge. This makes a flat hem. You can also do a rolled hem with a serger. The two thread rolled hem on a serger is the thinest but some sergers won't do a two thread roll.
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: DorothyL
Date: 03-27-2005, 05:58 PM (3 of 22)
That special foot drove me nuts when I tried to use it. How do get the fabric to stay in the little dohickey?
Dorothy
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002
Total posts: 3883
From: paroper
Date: 03-27-2005, 07:42 PM (4 of 22)
The trick is to feed the fabric evenly and to start it right. Before you start, run a short (6-7 stitch) line of stitching very near the edge running parallel to the edge of the fabric, starting where your hem will start. Do NOT trim the starting threads but trim the threads at the end. Then turn and press, turn and press again the edge of your hem the depth of the finished edge.

Unroll your pressed edge. Using the starting threads from your beginning stitches as a leader, feed your fabric into the cone of your hemmer. Pull the edge of the hem through the hemmer until you have a little cone of thread coming out the other side. Then, straighten the fabric to the left and slightly pull back on the fabric in the cone until it is even and just barely "peaks" from the atttachment. Lower your presser foot. You are now ready to stitch. As you stitch, let your feed dogs pull the fabric into the foot. If you try to push, pull or force the fabric, it will become uneven or come unrolled. With your left hand, keep the fabric flat and even to the left side of your presser foot so that the fabric feeds even. With the right hand, make a slight cone of fabric around the first two fingers of your right hand lightly holding them with your thumb. This allows the fabric to feed smoothly into the presser foot. Then, just go slow and let the machine do it's job. If you keep the shape going into the machine and keep the fabric to the left flat and even, you shouldn't have much problem. This is a wonderful foot!!!! One word of caution: there are several depths of rolled hemmer (no problem) but there are also two types. One type makes a scalloped hem. If your hem looks a little different than you expected, you may need to check to see it you have a scalloped hemmer. That is also a nice finish.
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: DorothyL
Date: 03-28-2005, 07:12 AM (5 of 22)
Thanks Pam --
I saved that in my little file of how tos. The one time I tried to use that foot I had a hard time and ended up just turning the edge twice and stitching it with long stitches.
Dorothy
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002
Total posts: 3883
From: Carol in ME
Date: 04-03-2005, 10:01 AM (6 of 22)
Sometimes it's easier for me to turn my machine ninety degrees counter-clockwise and feed in the material right to left. It isn't worth the trouble to take the bernina out of it's specially sized opening in the sewing table for just one hem, but I do remember an afternoon of doing nothing but rolled hems.
User: Carol in ME
Member since: 01-27-2003
Total posts: 105
From: MaryW
Date: 04-04-2005, 07:40 AM (7 of 22)
Pam, thanks a million. I have the special foot and no directions. I am doing a tablecloth today. I will let you know how it goes.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005
Total posts: 2542
From: paroper
Date: 04-04-2005, 09:13 AM (8 of 22)
Have fun. It just takes a little patience and sometimes a little practice, but it is a great way to hem!
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: plrlegal
Date: 04-04-2005, 10:25 PM (9 of 22)
Mary, throw that tablecloth on your serger and do a 3 thread rolled hem. I am so lazy when it comes to sewing these days. I have about 3 or 4 sizes of those rolled hemmers and I've never taken the time to learn how to use them. :wink:

Patsy
Patsy
User: plrlegal
Member since: 05-19-2001
Total posts: 318
From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 04-05-2005, 07:07 PM (10 of 22)
Well, I've tried and tried and the fabric just keeps slipping out of place.. They are far more trouble than they are worth.. I agree Patsy, use the serger.. Its a quick , good looking rolled hem..
Sew With Love
Libby
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002
Total posts: 2022
From: smith972
Date: 04-06-2005, 06:38 AM (11 of 22)
Last night in my embroidery class the teacher said that using a little bit of water sabilizer when doing a rolled hem makes it roll much nicer and eaiser....i have not had a chance to try it yet but will give it a try next time i need one...

I just thought i would pass on the tip..

Jada
User: smith972
Member since: 09-10-2004
Total posts: 241
From: MariLynnTX
Date: 04-08-2005, 05:37 PM (12 of 22)
We used to call this a shirttail hem. I use the narrowest rolled hem foot and turn up only about 1/8 inch instead of 1/4 inch, otherwise I do it the same as described. MariLynntx
Life is a song...we give it harmony or dissonance.
User: MariLynnTX
Member since: 08-13-2001
Total posts: 256
From: wp88
Date: 04-15-2005, 05:47 PM (13 of 22)
I have two sizes for my machine, fine when going on a straight hem but when it bends as in a shirt then it is difficult to keep it even. Is it just practice or is there a method when going around shapes?
User: wp88
Member since: 03-28-2005
Total posts: 35
From: MariLynnTX
Date: 04-15-2005, 06:02 PM (14 of 22)
I straight-stitch on the very edge, as close as I can get without going off into space, around the curve, then I pull the lower thread to gather the edge slightly, and turn it in about 1/8", insert it into the narrowest hemmer, and proceed as usual. Works very smoothly most of the time. On sheer fabrics I sometimes make a rolled hem by turning in 1/8" with a straight stitch and then turning it in another 1/8" and zigzagging over the first stitching with matching thread. MariLynntx
Life is a song...we give it harmony or dissonance.
User: MariLynnTX
Member since: 08-13-2001
Total posts: 256
From: CAquilter
Date: 04-22-2005, 01:29 PM (15 of 22)
I just wanted to add that it's easy to do a straight hem with those hemmers but try going around a curve. Any demos I've seen always use a small piece of straight fabric which makes it look easy.
User: CAquilter
Member since: 04-22-2005
Total posts: 2
From: MariLynnTX
Date: 04-22-2005, 01:51 PM (16 of 22)
Yes, and have you noticed that if you ask them about sewing a rolled hem around a curve, they pretend they don't hear you? But my method really does work! I reckon I should add it into my book someplace. MariLynntx
Life is a song...we give it harmony or dissonance.
User: MariLynnTX
Member since: 08-13-2001
Total posts: 256
From: mommgsews
Date: 04-24-2005, 01:23 PM (17 of 22)
Pam,

You gave an excellent description of the process in using the rolled hem foot! :-) Very clear and concise. I agree that it makes a fabulous hem. I encourage others to take the time to practice the hem and give yourself another great tool in your sewing kit! You will be amazed how good it feels to be able to accomplish this skill. The only thing that I would add to Pam's instructions is to take it slowly. The slower speed will allow you the extra time needed to teach your fingers the technique.

AZ Barbara
User: mommgsews
Member since: 03-15-2004
Total posts: 73
From: paroper
Date: 04-24-2005, 01:33 PM (18 of 22)
I'm glad that you were able to follow the instructions. It really does make a very nice hem that you can be proud of...congratulations!
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: weezyrider
Date: 04-26-2005, 11:58 AM (19 of 22)
David Coffin in his shirt making book does give instructions as to how to go around a corner with one of these feet. It has something to do with pivot points. Makes sense, but takes practice!
BTW - his book is the only one I have seen with any kind of help on the rolled hem foot.
Weezy
User: weezyrider
Member since: 08-19-2003
Total posts: 218
From: June Harlow
Date: 06-02-2005, 06:39 PM (20 of 22)
Just as an added note, I've found that the position of the sewing machine is also an important factor in getting a good rolled hem around curves, such as collars and flounces.

Looking at the front of the machine, I push the right side of it back, so the machine is almost sitting at a 45 degree angle to me. This positioning allows you to guide the fabric easily into the presser foot. A little practice and you'll be a wiz at it !
June ~

"If only I could find that missing pattern piece!"


June sews on a Pfaff 1209 and a Babylock 5180 serger
User: June Harlow
Member since: 05-30-2005
Total posts: 100
From: abbie
Date: 08-19-2005, 11:04 AM (21 of 22)
Hi,
I'm new to this group and just joined because I was having a problem with my rolled hem foot going around curves (I spend more time dyeing and printing than I do sewing). Thanks for all the help. I'm going to try the gathering method.
Thanks,
Abbie
User: abbie
Member since: 08-19-2005
Total posts: 1
From: wp88
Date: 08-19-2005, 02:36 PM (22 of 22)
The video of the David Coffin book Shirtmaking shows exactly how to use this foot and also go around corners. It is brilliant and a great help but of course still needs practice.There was a short video of it on the Taunton press web site as well which shows how to start correctly with this foot.
Hope this helps
User: wp88
Member since: 03-28-2005
Total posts: 35
Sew, What's Up
Search the “Sew What’s New” Archive:
Visit Sew What’s Up for the latest sewing and quilting tips and discussions.
This page was originally located on Sew What’s New (www.sew-whats-new.com) at http://www.sew-whats-new.com/vb/archive/index.php/t-15454.html